Advice for power distribution

[Spork]

So I picked up a few things from Revzilla:

Powerlet Dual Keylock power distribution thingies:

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/powerlet-dual-keylock-kit-yamaha-fjr1300-2006-2014

PDM60

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module-305750

I had the following issues I was wondering if someone can help with:

1. The Keylock looks like a gigantic PIA to route through the back of the bike, its a jumble of wires back there so I'm wondering if anyone has some tips/tricks to get the wires through there and connected.
2. The PDM60 needs a place to sit, I put it behind the right fairing (huge space there) for the time-being, but where have have folks been mounting it?
3. For the PDM 60 there are a bunch of loose wires (since I haven't gotten any accessories yet) from the PDM. have you guys just put a baggie over the hot ends, tucked them away and called it a day?
4. Finally, I needed a direct pigtail SAE connection since the PDM60 doesn't support charging (or so I heard). I had one left over from something and the poles were marked reverse (positive was actually negative and so on). Instead of wondering why the hot wire would go to the exposed plug I put it in the way it was marked. Anyway, when I plugged it into the charger (and after I put back ALL of the plastic (although it isn't as big of a pia as others make it out to be)) the charger starts doing the "reversed polarity" thing. So I took it apart, flipped the poles, and it charged like normal (although it might have borked one of my chargers). Thing is that this SAE pigtail doesn't have a fuse (typically I throw a 10A on there) and is short so it hangs downwards along the side of the battery, this makes me a bit nervous so I am wondering how you folks have your battery charger connection setup (by the battery, or routed under the tank to the back seat?). Also, is it a big deal to not have a fuse on that line?
5. Finally, getting the screws on the terminals to catch thread is a GIGANTIC pia. I eventually used a piece of paper to wedge the nut upwards to catch the thread (long-term i think im gonna get a longer M1 screw, maybe with a hex head). While I was doing that i would keep losing the ground connection to the bike and would see the rpm gauge moving up and down as some sort of indicator of power or something. Anyway, I'm probably being paranoid since the bike was off (per manual) while i was doing this, but can you damage anything with an intermittent ground connection?

Thanks for reading, and helping with my questions, as thanks I'll offer you something I learned:

1. If you ever lose one of those rectangle battery nuts, an M1 nut from autozone nut and some gentle feathering with an angle grinder on two sides will work.

 

[MrZappo]

So I picked up a few things from Revzilla:

Powerlet Dual Keylock power distribution thingies:

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/powerlet-dual-keylock-kit-yamaha-fjr1300-2006-2014

PDM60

https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/rowe-electronics-pdm60-power-distribution-module-305750

I had the following issues I was wondering if someone can help with:

1. The Keylock looks like a gigantic PIA to route through the back of the bike, its a jumble of wires back there so I'm wondering if anyone has some tips/tricks to get the wires through there and connected.
2. The PDM60 needs a place to sit, I put it behind the right fairing (huge space there) for the time-being, but where have have folks been mounting it?
3. For the PDM 60 there are a bunch of loose wires (since I haven't gotten any accessories yet) from the PDM. have you guys just put a baggie over the hot ends, tucked them away and called it a day?
4. Finally, I needed a direct pigtail SAE connection since the PDM60 doesn't support charging (or so I heard). I had one left over from something and the poles were marked reverse (positive was actually negative and so on). Instead of wondering why the hot wire would go to the exposed plug I put it in the way it was marked. Anyway, when I plugged it into the charger (and after I put back ALL of the plastic (although it isn't as big of a pia as others make it out to be)) the charger starts doing the "reversed polarity" thing. So I took it apart, flipped the poles, and it charged like normal (although it might have borked one of my chargers). Thing is that this SAE pigtail doesn't have a fuse (typically I throw a 10A on there) and is short so it hangs downwards along the side of the battery, this makes me a bit nervous so I am wondering how you folks have your battery charger connection setup (by the battery, or routed under the tank to the back seat?). Also, is it a big deal to not have a fuse on that line?
5. Finally, getting the screws on the terminals to catch thread is a GIGANTIC pia. I eventually used a piece of paper to wedge the nut upwards to catch the thread (long-term i think im gonna get a longer M1 screw, maybe with a hex head). While I was doing that i would keep losing the ground connection to the bike and would see the rpm gauge moving up and down as some sort of indicator of power or something. Anyway, I'm probably being paranoid since the bike was off (per manual) while i was doing this, but can you damage anything with an intermittent ground connection?

Thanks for reading, and helping with my questions, as thanks I'll offer you something I learned:

1. If you ever lose one of those rectangle battery nuts, an M1 nut from autozone nut and some gentle feathering with an angle grinder on two sides will work.

1) No idea... Off to the side of the underseat compartment usually works...

2) I (personally) would mount it under the seat . Drivers seat.

3) Idf the ends were actually hot, I would tape them off before putting them in a bag or something ... Don't want a hot + flapping around ...

4) It was not reversed, if you cut it off of something else, it was probably marked that way for a reason. SAE can be confusing as it related to polarity... The exposed metal pole needs to be ground if it is to be live when "flapping around under the cowling" otherwise it would short out easily (I would cap it) ... And YES, it can be a big deal to have anything connected that is not fused .. I would not have anything connected directly to my battery if it were not fused ... Unless you want to start a fire ...

Also, if they say it does not support charging, I would believe them ... Likely a current limitation somewhere ..

5) If you are referring to the battery connection and it flapping a bit when you were reconnecting it, that is not an issue ... It would happen any time a battery was replaced ...

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

When I installed the powerlets last year, I found that the bolt they provide to hold everything together while installing the assembly is too small (M5 instead of M6), here is the review I posted online:

Well designed, but.... June 1, 2014 Reviewer: Mr_Canoehead from Calgary The instructions are great and very complete but the longer bolt that they give you to hold the assembly together while installing the new plate is the wrong size. You need an M6 and they give you an M5 (M5x50 SHCS).

If the lock mechanism falls apart inside the panel you are seriously screwed. The diabolical part is that the M5 looks like the right part to the eye and feels like it does the job initially but then doesn't hold.

Do yourself a favor and get an M6x50 SHCS before you start the install.

Otherwise, the system is well thought out and well constructed.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Regarding the dual powerlet, I just moved one from my previous '09 to the new '15. Install was a snap, what looks like a jumble of wires actually works well and routes direct to the battery w/o much drama. Used the OEM torx on the lock, worked great.

With the powerlets wired direct (with individual fuses) you can trickle charge and run a pigtail for heated gear,etc. While wiring all this up, I added a 30amp relay for future power and left an additional hot lead for future unswitched power. With the open space in the GEN III battery area, I didn't see a reason to add a distribution block. There's easily room for a couple 30 amp relays.

I also have a standard BT pigtail direct to battery in the handlebar area for charging cell phones, Sena's and what-have-you. I know it probably sounds like a mess, but it's simple and provides all the power I'll ever need on the bike.

--G

 

[Spork]

Thanks for the advice, I put a new battery tender on the battery, but I think I'll give the rear connection another shot. I didn't know I would need a security torx but I have one (somewhere) for my license plate screws.

 

[Bounce]

Did this. All DIY. Clean, affordable and space-saving.

https://www.fjr-tips.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

 

[fleetfoot]

As far as the loose wires on the PDM60 go, just use the programming software to make all the circuits inactive. Regarding the battery terminal nuts, take a small piece of electrical tape, wad it into a ball and wedge wedge it under the nut.

 

[AlleyCat]

This is where I installed my PDM60... https://i1317.photobucket.com/albums/t630/Alleycat711/PDM60.jpg