AE Clutch Engagement is Adjustable

[Rickster]

I was bored, so reading the service manual....and read that the clutch engagement feature for the YCCS (AE model) is adjustable!!

First you have to enable the YCCS diagnostic mode:

1) Key off

2) Push and hold the hand shift select button on the left handlebar

3) While holding, turn the key on, and continue to hold the button in for 8 more seconds.

4) "Sh__61" appears on the digital display

5) do stuff (see below)

6) Turn key off to cancel diagnostic mode.

The service manual states that there are 21 different RPM speeds for the clutch engagement (i.e. starting from a stop). There is no mention of changing the rate of clutch engagement at gear shifts. The manual also states that there is no 'default' setting, and each bike can be different from the factory

While in YCCS diag. mode toggle to:

"Sh_66" to adjust clutch engagement position

Each upshift will INCREASE clutch engagement point by 100 - 150 RPM

Each downshift will DECREASE clutch engagement point by the same amount.

after you upshift/increase -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.6 seconds

after you downshift/decrease -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.3 seconds.

After adjusting -- push the hand shift select button for 0.3 seconds to save the change (writes to the Elec. Eraseable PROM), and the hand shift select light will come on for 2 seconds.

---- FWIW -- I haven't tried it yet -- just readin' the manual. This should help adjust any issues people are reporting with slow maneuvers. The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

 

[tripletango]

I was bored, so reading the service manual....and read that the clutch engagement feature for the YCCS (AE model) is adjustable!!

First you have to enable the YCCS diagnostic mode:

1) Key off

2) Push and hold the hand shift select button on the left handlebar

3) While holding, turn the key on, and continue to hold the button in for 8 more seconds.

4) "Sh__61" appears on the digital display

5) do stuff (see below)

6) Turn key off to cancel diagnostic mode.

The service manual states that there are 21 different RPM speeds for the clutch engagement (i.e. starting from a stop). There is no mention of changing the rate of clutch engagement at gear shifts. The manual also states that there is no 'default' setting, and each bike can be different from the factory

While in YCCS diag. mode toggle to:

"Sh_66" to adjust clutch engagement position

Each upshift will INCREASE clutch engagement point by 100 - 150 RPM

Each downshift will DECREASE clutch engagement point by the same amount.

after you upshift/increase -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.6 seconds

after you downshift/decrease -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.3 seconds.

After adjusting -- push the hand shift select button for 0.3 seconds to save the change (writes to the Elec. Eraseable PROM), and the hand shift select light will come on for 2 seconds.

---- FWIW -- I haven't tried it yet -- just readin' the manual. This should help adjust any issues people are reporting with slow maneuvers. The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

Now this is interesting. Let us know the results of your adjustments.

 

[818Guy]

The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

When you say "high" what do you mean?

BTW, thanks for the info. The one thing about my AE is how it's jerky at starts. To me, I roll the throttle and nothing happens and then WHAM the bike jerks forward. Like when you pop the clutch on a regular bike clutch.

Reading your post I'm going to assume I would lower mine as well so the clutch engages at lower RPM...correct? (Yes, that's a newbie question.)

 

[OrangevaleFJR]

The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

When you say "high" what do you mean?

BTW, thanks for the info. The one thing about my AE is how it's jerky at starts. To me, I roll the throttle and nothing happens and then WHAM the bike jerks forward. Like when you pop the clutch on a regular bike clutch.

Reading your post I'm going to assume I would lower mine as well so the clutch engages at lower RPM...correct? (Yes, that's a newbie question.)

Great info. Thanks for posting this. This makes a very desireable bike even more desireable.

 

[bikemonster]

The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

When you say "high" what do you mean?

BTW, thanks for the info. The one thing about my AE is how it's jerky at starts. To me, I roll the throttle and nothing happens and then WHAM the bike jerks forward. Like when you pop the clutch on a regular bike clutch.

Reading your post I'm going to assume I would lower mine as well so the clutch engages at lower RPM...correct? (Yes, that's a newbie question.)

Just got back from a long ride from Sacto.- Bodega Bay- Mendocino on 1- and back on the AE.

Impressed with the bike but I'm questioning my picking the AE over the A.

Anyone else getting tired of all the clunking from the drive train on rides that involve alot of shifting up and down and starts and stops?

This is one bad clunking motorcycle!

Getting back on a normal clutch bike feels like heaven.

 

[818Guy]

Anyone else getting tired of all the clunking from the drive train on rides that involve alot of shifting up and down and starts and stops?This is one bad clunking motorcycle!

Getting back on a normal clutch bike feels like heaven.

Funny you say that... my initial "thoughts" on the AE (posted a couple of weeks ago), I thought the same thing, that the bike made a lot of 'noise' when shifting.

I do agree, at times I miss a "traditional" clutch but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic in Los Angeles, I'm reminded why I chose the AE over the A (or even Honda's ST1300).

Soooooooo... did anyone take the plunge and adjust their clutch engagement ???

 

[T120TT]

The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

When you say "high" what do you mean?

BTW, thanks for the info. The one thing about my AE is how it's jerky at starts. To me, I roll the throttle and nothing happens and then WHAM the bike jerks forward. Like when you pop the clutch on a regular bike clutch.

Reading your post I'm going to assume I would lower mine as well so the clutch engages at lower RPM...correct? (Yes, that's a newbie question.)

My AE clutch engagement is also too abrupt beginning at too high RPM at low speeds. Feathering via the throttle is imprecise and more difficult than with the standard model. There seems to be a variety of unforseen real world conditions {at low speeds} that the designers didn't count on. It has its advantages as well as disadvantages. I'm still getting familiar with it. I keep grabbing for the clutch and pressing the horn button by accident.

 

[T120TT]

I was bored, so reading the service manual....and read that the clutch engagement feature for the YCCS (AE model) is adjustable!!

First you have to enable the YCCS diagnostic mode:

1) Key off

2) Push and hold the hand shift select button on the left handlebar

3) While holding, turn the key on, and continue to hold the button in for 8 more seconds.

4) "Sh__61" appears on the digital display

5) do stuff (see below)

6) Turn key off to cancel diagnostic mode.

The service manual states that there are 21 different RPM speeds for the clutch engagement (i.e. starting from a stop). There is no mention of changing the rate of clutch engagement at gear shifts. The manual also states that there is no 'default' setting, and each bike can be different from the factory

While in YCCS diag. mode toggle to:

"Sh_66" to adjust clutch engagement position

Each upshift will INCREASE clutch engagement point by 100 - 150 RPM

Each downshift will DECREASE clutch engagement point by the same amount.

after you upshift/increase -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.6 seconds

after you downshift/decrease -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.3 seconds.

After adjusting -- push the hand shift select button for 0.3 seconds to save the change (writes to the Elec. Eraseable PROM), and the hand shift select light will come on for 2 seconds.

---- FWIW -- I haven't tried it yet -- just readin' the manual. This should help adjust any issues people are reporting with slow maneuvers. The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

I tried to adjust my clutch engagement following your posted steps and could not get into the correct mode.

Specifically, the YCCS diagnostic mode. I followed the steps and held the shift select button in for 8 seconds after turning ignition on but "SH_61" did not appear on the digital display as you said. Just the usual display. Could you re read the instructions and check the proceedure again? Thanks.

 

[TheAxeman]

Just like the Barbarian jumper is needed to get into the CO settings, I wonder if something like that is required to get into the AE's YCCS diagnostic mode.....Just a thought from someone without a clue who doesn't own an AE....

 

[lotecredneck]

I was bored, so reading the service manual....and read that the clutch engagement feature for the YCCS (AE model) is adjustable!!

First you have to enable the YCCS diagnostic mode:

1) Key off

2) Push and hold the hand shift select button on the left handlebar

3) While holding, turn the key on, and continue to hold the button in for 8 more seconds.

4) "Sh__61" appears on the digital display

5) do stuff (see below)

6) Turn key off to cancel diagnostic mode.

The service manual states that there are 21 different RPM speeds for the clutch engagement (i.e. starting from a stop). There is no mention of changing the rate of clutch engagement at gear shifts. The manual also states that there is no 'default' setting, and each bike can be different from the factory

While in YCCS diag. mode toggle to:

"Sh_66" to adjust clutch engagement position

Each upshift will INCREASE clutch engagement point by 100 - 150 RPM

Each downshift will DECREASE clutch engagement point by the same amount.

after you upshift/increase -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.6 seconds

after you downshift/decrease -- the hand shift select light comes on for 0.3 seconds.

After adjusting -- push the hand shift select button for 0.3 seconds to save the change (writes to the Elec. Eraseable PROM), and the hand shift select light will come on for 2 seconds.

---- FWIW -- I haven't tried it yet -- just readin' the manual. This should help adjust any issues people are reporting with slow maneuvers. The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

I tried to adjust my clutch engagement following your posted steps and could not get into the correct mode.

Specifically, the YCCS diagnostic mode. I followed the steps and held the shift select button in for 8 seconds after turning ignition on but "SH_61" did not appear on the digital display as you said. Just the usual display. Could you re read the instructions and check the proceedure again? Thanks.

There is a plug under the left upper cover that has to have a tool plugged into it to make the diagnostics work. I am sure it shorts a couple of the terminals together, but I am not sure which ones.

Tony

 

[Rickster]

Test connector only has 2 pins.

Decreasing RPM engagement has issues due to engine RPM changes at startup.

On mine, a cold engine idles at 1500 RPM, and after warm-up (a few minutes), drops to about 1000 RPM.

Factory clutch engagement setting is approx 1800 RPM.

WARNING!!!

Adjusting the engagement lower (even one step) changes the engagement point to about 1650 RPM. from factory. That causes issues when the bike's in first gear and the engine is cold.

Specifically RPM CAN be high enough to engage the clutch with ZERO throttle input.

(Mine has been adjusted back.)

 

[T120TT]

Test connector only has 2 pins.
Decreasing RPM engagement has issues due to engine RPM changes at startup.

On mine, a cold engine idles at 1500 RPM, and after warm-up (a few minutes), drops to about 1000 RPM.

Factory clutch engagement setting is approx 1800 RPM.

WARNING!!!

Adjusting the engagement lower (even one step) changes the engagement point to about 1650 RPM. from factory. That causes issues when the bike's in first gear and the engine is cold.

Specifically RPM CAN be high enough to engage the clutch with ZERO throttle input.

(Mine has been adjusted back.)

Well now! I guess I'll just leave well enough alone!

 

[T120TT]

Test connector only has 2 pins.

Decreasing RPM engagement has issues due to engine RPM changes at startup.

On mine, a cold engine idles at 1500 RPM, and after warm-up (a few minutes), drops to about 1000 RPM.

Factory clutch engagement setting is approx 1800 RPM.

WARNING!!!

Adjusting the engagement lower (even one step) changes the engagement point to about 1650 RPM. from factory. That causes issues when the bike's in first gear and the engine is cold.

Specifically RPM CAN be high enough to engage the clutch with ZERO throttle input.

(Mine has been adjusted back.)

Well now! I guess I'll just leave well enough alone!

The more I ride my AE, the better I'm liking it. Definately a learning curve but now its definatley a keeper. Wasn't so sure at first.

 

[tripletango]

The factory setting on mine is a little high for my taste, and expect to decrease it.

When you say "high" what do you mean?

BTW, thanks for the info. The one thing about my AE is how it's jerky at starts. To me, I roll the throttle and nothing happens and then WHAM the bike jerks forward. Like when you pop the clutch on a regular bike clutch.

Reading your post I'm going to assume I would lower mine as well so the clutch engages at lower RPM...correct? (Yes, that's a newbie question.)

Just got back from a long ride from Sacto.- Bodega Bay- Mendocino on 1- and back on the AE.

Impressed with the bike but I'm questioning my picking the AE over the A.

Anyone else getting tired of all the clunking from the drive train on rides that involve alot of shifting up and down and starts and stops?

This is one bad clunking motorcycle!

Getting back on a normal clutch bike feels like heaven.

I know what you mean! Yamaha is aware of the problem according to the tec reps. I hope the tranny is super strong!

The heavy throttle, cam design of same and mapping seem to lead the pack in creating the problem.

Test connector only has 2 pins.
Decreasing RPM engagement has issues due to engine RPM changes at startup.

On mine, a cold engine idles at 1500 RPM, and after warm-up (a few minutes), drops to about 1000 RPM.

Factory clutch engagement setting is approx 1800 RPM.

WARNING!!!

Adjusting the engagement lower (even one step) changes the engagement point to about 1650 RPM. from factory. That causes issues when the bike's in first gear and the engine is cold.

Specifically RPM CAN be high enough to engage the clutch with ZERO throttle input.

(Mine has been adjusted back.)

I have noticed that the clutch engages at higher rpm on initial start up. This due to the higher idle speed. As the motor warms up there is a period when very light throttle applications cause some hesitancy on engagement - kind of sounds like viff viff (OK don't flame my ass) and the clutch slips unevenly.

When the motor is at normal operating temp the clutch engages sharply on any thing but tiny movements of the throttle.

I am thinking that setting up the engagement RPM would make the low speed handling better.

Have you tried that yet?

 

[06FJRAEPILOT]

I'd develop my technique before adjusting anything on a new machine. They don't come from the factory out of adjustment. Ten different riders will have ten different opinions on what is a proper electronic clutch adjustment. The best thing is for the ten riders to adjust to the bike. My "AE" is smoooooth both up and down. Broke the shifting code at 800 miles (although it was pretty good right out of the box) for seamless shifts and now with some 5200 miles in the "AE" saddle it's like chewing gum and walking at the same time.....

It gets me to hear guys complain about the strong throttle spring but they won't have a bike with an electronic clutch. But I guess those are the same guys that modify perfectly good new motorcycles.

 

[Rickster]

If you decide to mess with it -- a word of advise -- make sure you've got the bike on the centerstand (rear wheel not touching the ground) to test it.

The service manual calls for the clutch engagement to be 'adjusted' after:

Clutch Master cylinder replacement (after bleeding the system, and based on the thickness of the old and new clutch master cylinder shim

Replacing the clutch actuator (instructed to shift-up in diag. mode to 'max' determined when the hand shift select light does not come on, then back off 10 down-shift clicks) afterwards, you're instructed to check the rear wheel drag torque.

Until I get more detail on the YCC-S MCU, I've put it back, and will leave it factory set. I'd drop the RPM engagement if I understood what other inputs (besides RPM) affect initial engagement (specifically idle speed)

 

[Lerdog]

"Broke the shifting code at 800 miles ..."

06FJRPILOT - What do you mean when you say that you broke the shift code?

 

[06FJRAEPILOT]

"Broke the shifting code at 800 miles ..."
06FJRPILOT - What do you mean when you say that you broke the shift code?

As I mentioned, the bike sifted pretty smoothly from day one. However, by about the 800 mile mark I had developed shifting techniques that made all shifts up and down seamless and extremely smooth. I have found it takes " extremely" minor rapid throttle movement dependent on how much the bike is pulling or decelerating at the time of shift. Different throttle technique for decelerations. Also different throttle technique for the run of the mill shifts when not pulling or decelerating hard.

This bike shines due to the ability to shift quickly and smoothly while in the twisties while having both feet firmly planted on the foot pets. Throttle technique for the shifting condition is the key to smooth shifts on the "AE".

Smooth throttle operation and how you handle the slack throttle between 1100 rpm and 2000 rpm will eliminate all the jerky stuff folks talk about experiencing. Bring the throttle up smoothly and slowly to eleminate the dead area. Then when your ready to go, its just a matter of rolling the throttle on. In the interest of clutch wear, timing when to be in gear and when to take up slack is important. If I don't have a precieved threat from the rear while at a red light I shift into neutral and stay there until the light is about to turn green. A second or two before the light changes I select first gear and begin to eleminate that dead rpm space. When the light changes I just continue to roll on the throttle. Makes for a smooth and efficent starts with hopefully minimal wear on the clutch.

When accelerating and pulling hard lead selecting the shift by an almost unnoticable (what I mean about unnoticable is less than a quarter inch of movement in the wrist) "rapid" throttle wrist movement in the direction of rolling the throttle off. Shift, then immediately move your rist back to the original throttle position. The whole process of throttle wrist movement and the shift is instantainious. The wrist throttle movement is about the same as if you make a fist and and just squeeze your fingers. That is about the amount of movement of the throttle in both directions with the sift coming at the roll off point. It is difficult to explain because the wrist movement is so small and so quick with the sift selected just prior to returning the wrist to the original throttle position. Just takes practice, thus the 800 miles. This technique is for fast acceleration.

Try it some and if it works for you we can talk down shifts and those routine shifts when your not pulling much or decelerating.

I think I have 5300 miles on the "AE" as of today and I love it more and more each day! I am now waiting for the clutch to explode or the impending clutch recall I read about on forum the other day to come about. Both of which I doubt will come true. Side note: I had a Kawasaki Vulcan 2000 that developed a problem and when the dealership made the repair I was told that the factory used an incorrect torque value and that all the 2004 Vulcan 2000's would be recalled. Took a year and a half for that recall to materalize. Seems a bit early to see a recall on the "AE". I guess anything is possible, however I am not going to get excited about the possibility. Think I will ride it instead.

I hope my rambling helps. All good things come in time!

 

[bikerkash]

When you read the manual it states that there is a special device that hooks up to the bikes system that reads the codes. The dealers do not have these yet nor is anyone trained to use them so it appears we are a ways off before we can adjust this function. After 5k I've started to work with the positive things about the bike and overcome what I consider it's short comings. The hardest thing for me has been dealing with the potential for very jerky starts, shifting smoothly from 1st to 2nd, 2nd to third, and applying smooth throttle is tight/2nd gear corners. These are some of the things that I have tried that and helped me enjoy the bike. Starting out in 1st gear can be a little risky if you you are not very smooth with the throttle so I have been taking advantage of the torquey motor and start out in second gear. A whole lot less can go wrong in 2nd then 1st and it is smoother, not sure this would be a good idea when riding two up. I also put the 4yr. Y E S warranty on the bike just incase this should become a problem. Do the shifting very early in the lower gears, shift out of 1st by 10 to 15mph and 2nd by 20 to 25mph and work the throttle on all up shifts and it will be smoother. I also started using the "cramp buster" on the throttle and rely more on working the throttle with the palm of my hand. I find this has worked well for being smoother as well as a replacment for the lack of a cruise control, which should have been standard. I find I can be smoother in the corners if I avoid using 1st & 2nd gear and take advantage of the excellent torque. However if you do go to the lower gears use a little rear brake when you ease on the throttle and this will help smooth out some of the driveline lash, but remember to let off the brake once you have made the transition from off to on throttle. I believe it is a good idea to always start the bike only when it is netural, another safety issue. I've had 3 new front tires, different brands, on the bike and continue to have a front end shake between 40 & 50mph, only when you easy your hands off the bars. The dealer is working with Yamaha to figure this out. Also my ABS light comes on way too easy the dealer is checking with Yamaha on this also. The more I ride it and learn to take advantage of it's strong points the more pure enjoyment I find riding this bike. RIDE SAFE