AE paddle shifter button bypass...the thing that keeps your button green

[mfletch69]

last year I remember seeing a gizmo someone had made to keep your AE paddle shifter always on. I searched but could not find it. Has anyone tried it? I think I want one.

 

[user 213]

last year I remember seeing a gizmo someone had made to keep your AE paddle shifter always on. I searched but could not find it. Has anyone tried it? I think I want one.

I think you mean this thread - LINK Try PMing some of the posters.

 

[grendell]

I think that this might be the device that you are thinking of. I was thinking about getting this device, but never did. So, I can't offer any more help than the link.

Eric

last year I remember seeing a gizmo someone had made to keep your AE paddle shifter always on. I searched but could not find it. Has anyone tried it? I think I want one.

 

[mfletch69]

That's the one Eric. Last week in Canada, the grey button on my bike was pulled out by rubbing on my tank bag. It actually broke the base of the stalk of the grey button AND I HAD TO RIDE HALF A DAY USING THE FOOT LEVER!! People who dog the paddle shifter have never tried it because it is soooo much better. Anyway, I rigged it back with some tape and made it through the rest of the trip. I am thinking of getting this bypass instead of fixing the broken grey button.

 

[user 213]

I think that this might be the device that you are thinking of. I was thinking about getting this device, but never did. So, I can't offer any more help than the link.

Grendell - Your Fu is strong! I was unable to find that topic from a while back. Nice job.

 

[FJRocket]

I did buy and install the module from DJSmith1000. Dunno if he's still selling them. His profile shows that he logged onto the board last night.

My DJSmith shift enable module works beautifully.

The paddle shifters are now always on in my smart car too, since a factory computer upgrade. Don't know about the exotics. Wish Yamaha would default the shift mechanism to ON.

I find myself using my fingers more and more and my left foot less and less, especially since I haven't had to remember to turn the finger shifter ON (for years).

 

[hellcreep]

That's the one Eric. Last week in Canada, the grey button on my bike was pulled out by rubbing on my tank bag. It actually broke the base of the stalk of the grey button AND I HAD TO RIDE HALF A DAY USING THE FOOT LEVER!! People who dog the paddle shifter have never tried it because it is soooo much better. Anyway, I rigged it back with some tape and made it through the rest of the trip. I am thinking of getting this bypass instead of fixing the broken grey button.

Rough, Mike! The AE's spoiled you. I can relate!

--hc

 

[bigjimbiker]

I've seen articles about the problem and what I've started doing is parking the beast in neutral. Not only is it easier to get it on the center stand, you also avoid those embarrassing moments when you park it in first, crank it up, proceed with caution, and then have people wonder why the hell you don't upshift while you click away at the paddle and then realize you must push the damn button! I never, repeat, never, park the bike with the side stand. Florida asphalt is notoriously soft even in the middle of our deep freezes. I've had the bike for about a month now and find it very enjoyable and this simple solution has made it appear that I'm a seasoned veteran.

 

[djsmith1000]

Hey guys,

Sorry I missed the thread, haven't been on the forum in a while, until I got a PM about the auto-enable device. Too busy ridin! :yahoo: . I haven't made any in a while, I would be willing to make another batch. If you guys don't mind waiting a week or so, I'd like to get an idea of who is interested, so I know how many to make. Please PM me ASAP if you will order one.

Also, I have designed this for an 06-07. I think they changed ECM's in 08, so I imagine the wiring will be a little different. Anyone know where I can get wiring diagrams for it? PM me if so.

Dan

 

[Brodie]

Hey guys,
... I'd like to get an idea of who is interested, so I know how many to make. Please PM me ASAP if you will order one.

Dan

PM sent

 

[dbx]

I ended up rolling my own with parts I had in my junk box, and so far it's working perfectly. (4 months and about 2500 miles or so). When I turn the ignition on, nothing happens, but as soon as the engine starts the hand shift is enabled. Slick as snot.

Parts list:

1 12v relay

1 220uF 25v capacitor

1 6.8K Ohm resistor

The capacitor is in-line with the relay so that the relay energizes only during the cap's charging cycle. The resistor is used to bleed the cap after power is removed. This design requires 3 connections to the bike's wiring harness, all of which are easily accessible up front under the lower left fairing panel.

1. The +12v power comes from the circuit that's hot after engine start. Get it from the OEM grip heat controller harness.

2. Ground can be found in a number of places. I used the ground from the OEM grip heat controller.

3. Connect to the ECU side of the hand-shift enable switch. Connector available under the lower left fairing panel, along with #1 and #2 above.

Apologies for the hand drawn schematic, but hopefully it illustrates the design and makes it easy for others to understand it and recommend improvements.

 

[mfletch69]

1 please....for an '06

 

[Brodie]

...when I turn the ignition on, nothing happens, but as soon as the engine starts the hand shift is enabled.
The capacitor is in-line with the relay so that the relay energizes only during the cap's charging cycle. The resistor is used to bleed the cap after power is removed.

1. The +12v power comes from the circuit that's hot after engine start. Get it from the OEM grip heat controller harness.

2. Ground can be found in a number of places. I used the ground from the OEM grip heat controller.

3. Connect to the ECU side of the hand-shift enable switch. Connector available under the lower left fairing panel, along with #1 and #2 above.

Not being trained in electronics I learn as I go. Please bear with me as I try to digest your circuit.

You are using the time to charge the capacitor to induce the momentary signal that triggers the relay. When the capacitor is fully discharged it will pass electrons unimpeded. The moment current begins to flow the capacitor starts charging. During this charging state the capacitor increasingly restricts the flow of current until it becomes fully charged, at which time no current flows. Depending on the size of the capacitor it may take half a second or so to charge. This provides the necessary signal to momentarily trigger the relay, mimicking the button push on the paddle shift housing.

Once the capacitor is charged there needs to be a way to discharge it in preparation for the next time you start the engine; hence the resistor. The resistor must be of a high enough value that it will bleed off the capacitor without allowing enough current to trigger the relay. Not so high that it takes forever to reset the circuit. It's all a matter of timing.

The relay is there to protect the YCCS electronics from the capacitor/resistor combination. It will only flow normal bike current when energized, and shut off the flow when de energized.

In essence - you just built an electromechanical thumb.

Dan's device accomplishes the same task using solid state components. It's a smaller package that can be hidden under the seat right next to the YCCS module. Both will do the job well. I've had Dan's unit on my bike for over a year and am very happy with the results. I hate that grey button!

Jeff, did I get it right?

Brodie

 

[grendell]

That's the one Eric. Last week in Canada, the grey button on my bike was pulled out by rubbing on my tank bag. It actually broke the base of the stalk of the grey button AND I HAD TO RIDE HALF A DAY USING THE FOOT LEVER!! People who dog the paddle shifter have never tried it because it is soooo much better. Anyway, I rigged it back with some tape and made it through the rest of the trip. I am thinking of getting this bypass instead of fixing the broken grey button.

I had the same thing happen to my button as well. Luckily it broke off in a spot so that there was still enough of something to push on so I could still turn it off and on. I was able to get it replaced under YES without any problems.

 

[dbx]

Not being trained in electronics I learn as I go. Please bear with me as I try to digest your circuit.
<SNIP>

In essence - you just built an electromechanical thumb.

Dan's device accomplishes the same task using solid state components. It's a smaller package that can be hidden under the seat right next to the YCCS module. Both will do the job well. I've had Dan's unit on my bike for over a year and am very happy with the results. I hate that grey button!

Jeff, did I get it right?

Yep, Brodie, you got it exactly right! Great explanation. As for Dan's device, I'd love to compare mine to his but he hasn't shared a schematic, as far as I know, and I can't afford to buy one and take it apart.

 

[dustyrains]

Yeh, I love my trigger shifter, but in the beginning it was not uncommon for me to forget to turn it on, so I had a few WTF?? events when it wouldn't shift up. Now I am habituated to turning it on right after I turn the key on, before I thumb the start button.

 

[Ancint Brit]

I fail to see the need for a button. On a recent trip to the Alpes I was on a mountain pass with lots of hairpins. On a hard left hander the button hit the tank bag. Made the next right hander very interesting.

 

[dbx]

Given the choice between a clownishly large tank bag and an auto-enable device, I'll take the auto-enable every time. It's not even close.

 

[Ancint Brit]

Given the choice between a clownishly large tank bag and an auto-enable device, I'll take the auto-enable every time. It's not even close.

Why do I need one on the FJR to operate the flappy thing? As my model has no leaver option, it just seems pointless tech (and it looks crap )