After four years

[mt1962]

Hi all,

There is a very long story behind this post, but, in the interests of not boring everyone, after 4 and 1/2 years, it was time to get the 2006 FJR on the road again......

First issue is after siphoning out the old gas and putting in new, the old beauty started up after a few minutes (a battery recharge etc was needed). After the initial reluctance the bike starts effortlessly now. Had it up to operating temperature etc. now it seems the old hos' really hesitates when starting off, increase the RPM and let the clutch slip and she takes off fine, clearly though there is something off. Any suggestions where to start ? Kms (Canada) are 24,000 nothing in terms of maintenance had been done before she was put away for rest outside of fluids changed and a rear tire. When on the road she seems happy to purr along at anything above 3000 RPM I can't detect any issues. Comments ?

Second issue is more of a mystery to me, Before going out on the road I noticed there was no rear brake when the pedal was applied. Changed all the fluids, bled etc and got the pedal back. There was no fluid in the rear master cylinder when I investigated. Now, the brake pedal is great but I suspect there was brake fluid somehow got onto the pads and rear disc. I did the brake fluid flush over two weeks ago and there is no visible sign of a fluid leak anywhere. Being left unused and outside in Canada over three winters I wondered if the seals leaked and then after me redoing the brakes they "rehydrated" and have sealed up the rear piston. As I say, no visible leaks for two weeks and I have used the brakes extensively. Anyway, the two questions related to this - anyone experienced/seen anything like this ? What do you recommend - rebuild rear caliper, change pads (somehow they got the leaked fluid on/into them). Any finally - how to ensure there is no residual brake fluid on the rear disc once I change the pads, I don't want to contaminate them.

Any feedback on either topic is very welcome.

 

[grumpypoo]

First issue:

How are the clutches? Soak them up it won't hurt a thing

Second issue:

I had the same exact problem but mine was due to pads being worn completely out causing the piston to come to far.

How much pad life is left?

If the prove good just watch the level and ride.

 

[mcatrophy]

Rear brake pads: if contaminated, change for new. Brake disc: thoroughly clean with brake cleaner before using the new discs.

Engine hesitancy? Don't know. Try new plugs. Maybe clean the injectors. Wait for the Seafoam aficionados to reply.

 

[mt1962]

Thanks grumpypoo. Pads are fine, what do oyu mean by soak em up re clutches ?

 

[grumpypoo]

Pull the clutches and dip them in oil.

That would eliminate clutches. Check your spark plugs too

 

[Uncle Hud]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=114431&hl= It's even based on a 2008. Lotsa pictures. Google is your friend.

 

[mt1962]

Thanks for the help. So, I went ahead and dipped all the plates, seemed an easy task, got it all reassembled and I can't pull the clutch in?

I marked all the plates, reassembled them in the right order, noted the pink mark and reassembled the plates to align with the pink mark..... at a complete loss.

Any suggestions - help!!

 

[ionbeam]

Edit: Post deleted due to the inability to read the previous post with comprehension.

 

[RaYzerman19]

You need to double check assembly of the actuating rod and the little ball at the end is still there....... otherwise, can you give us a better description of what is happening or not happening when you squeeze the clutch lever?

 

[mt1962]

Well, thanks for trying to help out. I took the cover off and checked the pink aligned tabs etc. As I was doing so, I noticed the front ring was not perfectly aligned. I moved it slightly clockwise and the entire clutch assembly "popped back in". I guess I had not got it perfectly aligned, not the clutch plates themselves but the outer retainer plate, Took her for a short ride with plenty of stops and starts and the clutch is fine, even better, the hesitation at low RPM seems to have gone (one of my two original problems).

Thanks to all for the help so far. Next job is changing the rear caliper seals and pads. I have to wait as the dealer did not have the OEM pads or seals in stock. When I have done this work, do I need to bleed front and back brakes or just back brakes?

Final question on this thread, I haven't done a throttle body synch on the bike, anyone know where to get a reasonably priced 4 port manometer to do this with ?

 

[RaYzerman19]

If you rebuild the rear caliper, I would recommend a complete bleed. Perhaps a little anal, but Rear first to minimize air going towards the front, then follow the normal sequence..... front right (lower) caliper, then rear (again).

Manometer, I use the Morgan Carbtune.

https://www.carbtune.com/

 

[phroenips]

Just to be safe, I'd bleed them all again due to the linked brakes on the FJR

 

[want2ride]

I made my own out of clear tubing and a board. Put 2 stroke oil in the tubes. Cost to build about $25. It works great for me. I googled it for the plans, lol.

 

[mcatrophy]

I made my own out of clear tubing and a board. Put 2 stroke oil in the tubes. Cost to build about $25. It works great for me. I googled it for the plans, lol.

Made my own, cost about £2 for the tube and the T-pieces. Used (unused

) old engine oil. Worked a treat.

(Click on image for larger view)



More pics here.

 

[RossKean]

Made my own, cost about £2 for the tube and the T-pieces. Used (unused

) old engine oil. Worked a treat.

With the higher viscosity of engine oil (vs. water), did you have to use some sort of capillary or restrictor to reduce the "bouncing" of the levels in the tubes?

 

[RaYzerman19]

I made one too, but Biker Geek Andy kept laying it down at tech days...... it wasn't really portable for transport.

 

[mcatrophy]

Made my own, cost about £2 for the tube and the T-pieces. Used (unused :winksmiley02: ) old engine oil. Worked a treat.

With the higher viscosity of engine oil (vs. water), did you have to use some sort of capillary or restrictor to reduce the "bouncing" of the levels in the tubes?

On the contrary, oil bounces a lot less than water because it's more viscous. You might note from my pics that I put some compression clips on the four plastic tubes. Done for two reasons, one was to ensure no dramatic sucking of oil if anything went wrong, secondly to provide a damping restriction. In the end, no extra damping was needed.

 

[RossKean]

Made my own, cost about £2 for the tube and the T-pieces. Used (unused

) old engine oil. Worked a treat.

With the higher viscosity of engine oil (vs. water), did you have to use some sort of capillary or restrictor to reduce the "bouncing" of the levels in the tubes?

On the contrary, oil bounces a lot less than water because it's more viscous. You might note from my pics that I put some compression clips on the four plastic tubes. Done for two reasons, one was to ensure no dramatic sucking of oil if anything went wrong, secondly to provide a damping restriction. In the end, no extra damping was needed.

I would EXPECT less bouncing with the more viscous oil. You absolutely need damping with water and I was just wondering if the extra viscosity of the oil was sufficient - sounds like you needed the compression clips anyway.

 

[DocFJR]

Just to be safe, I'd bleed them all again due to the linked brakes on the FJR

I agree. After sitting a really long time, brake fluid gets nasty. I'd want to be sure it's completely replaced. And if it were me, I'd pull the gas tank and really clean it out. The old ethanol gas sitting in there likely left a gummy coating that will eventually break free and nail the injectors - over and over. I just rebuilt a carburetor on an old bike and the gas had formed a gelatin sludge. Ethanol sucks.