Airbox ?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Dunk43

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
200
Reaction score
11
Location
McCalla, AL
Has anyone left the first cover off the airbox to get better air flow ?

I don't know what its called but you remove it with the 2 push pins and 1 screw.

Looks like maybe its there to keep water out.

 
I've heard of guys cutting a couple holes in the air box to gain a little, but never leaving the cover off. Not sure though.

Gary

darksider #44

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Has anyone left the first cover off the airbox to get better air flow ?
<snark>No, not that I remember. But, mainly because I don't think anyone has ever wanted to fundamentally defeat the purpose of the air filter as the cover is an integral part to ensuring air flows THROUGH the filter and avoid the gaping unfiltered air hole that would happen if it wasn't in place.</snark>

That said, try some searching on air box MODIFICATION and you'll see many that have altered the cover with varying degrees of subjective success and even larger amounts of bench racing speculation.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
This didn't take long to get to NEPRT. Admin's are on queue tonight. Anyway I did take about 3/4 inch off the end of the outside airbox cover if memory serves me correctly. Been a while since I serviced the airbox. Which reminds me maybe I should check my filter soon.

Dave

 
Last edited by a moderator:
This didn't take long to get to NEPRT. Admin's are on queue tonight. Anyway I did take about 3/4 inch off the end of the outside airbox cover if memory serves me correctly. Been a while since I serviced the airbox. Which reminds me maybe I should check my filter soon.
Dave
Its not really the cover but more like a deflector its attached on top of the cover ??? guess I will have to take a pic.

It would not let unfiltered air in if removed.

Its not shown in the parts fiche for some reason.

 
I believe you are referring to the part that Yamaha calls 'duct' and many people refer to as a horn.

I think it is there to reduce the sound of the air being drawn in. I don't think dirt will get past the filter if you remove it. I also doubt that you will be able to tell if there is any difference in horsepower with or without it.

 
Yeah...I took that outer cover off. The main cover with the "chimney" is still in place, but the cover that goes outside that cover is on the shelf.

A number of people have removed that one. Search: Cdog air box mod. Remember that what you remove and do is at your own risk. However my bike was under warranty when I did mine and no one from Yamaha ever even flinched.

 
Yeah...I took that outer cover off. The main cover with the "chimney" is still in place, but the cover that goes outside that cover is on the shelf.
A number of people have removed that one. Search: Cdog air box mod. Remember that what you remove and do is at your own risk. However my bike was under warranty when I did mine and no one from Yamaha ever even flinched.
Looks like the Zman is right, apparently he's been there, done that. Therefore I stand corrected.
sleep.png


 
What 'Zilla said: Cdog mod and also search "uselesspickles" air box threads. They did some dyno work to check results as well. Do some digging, lots of info on the subject.

 
I believe you are referring to the part that Yamaha calls 'duct' and many people refer to as a horn.
I think it is there to reduce the sound of the air being drawn in. I don't think dirt will get past the filter if you remove it. I also doubt that you will be able to tell if there is any difference in horsepower with or without it.
took mine off years ago. Not sure I could really tell any difference with the Uni-Flo filter but hey, I felt better cause I modded my bike!

 
It blows my *** away every time I hear (read) of people modifying the FJ air intake system. To me it is the best ever in stock condition. In my youth I took a balteen hammer and dremel tool to to air boxes at will. It never ceased to destroy performance. Ocasionally I would see a better top end, but there was always a trade off. Usually mid range tanked. Leave it alone. It is perfection as is (with paper filtration).

 
I have made poor choices with air boxes in the past as well, and learned my lesson.

What has changed with current bikes is fuel injection and EPA noise control.

Small changes in air volume are compensated for and I enjoy hearing that big inline 4’s intake song.

I just make sure whatever I do can be un-done if I so desire.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Back in the olden days engines were poorly designed for a lot of reasons including poor science/engineering, lack of available computing power and lack of the target market caring. In this age you could add a pipe, jets, an air filter and go noticeably faster. Starting in the '60s there were advancements being made for general commercial automotive applications. Then we went through the automotive dark ages where engineers grafted new high tech ideas onto old engine designs. During the early days Detroit engines generally made <0.5 hp/CI and world 4 stroke engines made way less than 100 hp/L.

Advances abounded in motorcycle engines during the 80's and car engines during the 90's and power density went way up. Engines are now designed as a system and part of that is designing by paying close attention to VE - Volumetric Efficiency. There are many factors which determine the torque an engine can produce and the RPM at which the maximum torque occurs. However, the fundamental determinant is the mass of air the engine can ingest into the cylinders. For normally aspirated two valve pushrod engines a VE >95% is excellent but with careful tuning of the pulse waves from intake to exhaust it is possible to reach 110%, where the engine can pack in more air than the actual cylinder volume. In DOHC engines VE can hit peaks of 115%. These high VE engines are very peaky, trading lower RPM VE for very high power at high RPMs. Systems can be designed to trade off some of the peak VE to get two smaller VE peaks, or one lower but broader band. The broad band approach is where mainstream engines are tuned for good low-end torque, good throttle response, high mileage, low emissions, and low noise.

When average bike owners without a chassis dynamometer starts drilling holes, swapping exhausts and fiddling with fuel delivery they are taking an optimized system and breaking it in most cases. This is why you want to look for an aftermarket system that has been developed by a tuner business and comes with engineered components that reshape the VE to achieve some new target performance band. Modern engines, especially motorcycle engines with power densities well over 120 hp/L are already highly engineered making it hard to get any significant performance improvements without serious modifications like cylinder heads, NOS or positive pressure like turbos or superchargers.

I spent some time at New England Dragway with a guy that made on the spot modifications to his air box. He went to the strip with air box tuning specifically in mind. His brother drove his tool truck to the track so he could tune the air box and make runs while tracking and compensating for atmospheric changes. He drilled, sawed, plugged and drilled again, ran sans air filter and finally ended up putting an air snorkel on the right side of the air box in addition to the one on the left side. He also had a PC III and used that to try to trim fuel to match the air box mods. The most wildly optimistic 1/4 mile time improvement was ~0.2 seconds after compensating for atmospheric conditions (but, on the other hand, perhaps the rider just got a good run). I was running against him on most of the runs and he never significantly crossed the finish line any farther ahead than at the beginning of the night with a stock system. For what ever reason, his FJR was always faster than mine regardless of the riders.

For those that are still awake: Don't bother modifying the air box.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
you are telling this forum, which is chock full o' tinkerers who will tear their FJR down to tiny pieces scattered all over the garage floor, just to see what it looks like - not to tinker?
Bring on the popcorn!!
NOOOOOO!!!! Tinker away. But, if you think that your tinkering is going to make the engine perform significantly better be prepared to to have your heart broken. My message wasn't about tinkering in general, it's about one small, specific part modification.

When you get a fancy Rolex and wonder how it works, by all means take the ball peen to it then dig through the resulting bits and pieces to see what made it tick.

 
you are telling this forum, which is chock full o' tinkerers who will tear their FJR down to tiny pieces scattered all over the garage floor, just to see what it looks like - not to tinker?
Bring on the popcorn!!
NOOOOOO!!!! Tinker away. But, if you think that your tinkering is going to make the engine perform significantly better be prepared to to have your heart broken. My message wasn't about tinkering in general, it's about one small, specific part modification.

When you get a fancy Rolex and wonder how it works, by all means take the ball peen to it then dig through the resulting bits and pieces to see what made it tick.
Really there is no need to do this on the Gen I's since they run soooooo much better and have sooooo much more power than than the later Gen X models... YMMV.

 
Still – it’s noise emissions that will get into the pockets of a manufacture for many years beyond the end of the factory warrantee.

The noise that is muffled from the intake allows things to make racket that are more difficult/expensive to fix.

I understand that large improvements in power or MPG are foolish to expect from cutting up the air box.

I also believe there are small benefits to had if willing to tolerate more noise from the intake.

 
Top