An *****'s notes after first Gen2 FJR oil change

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How old is this oil pan? The triangular oil pan was a by-product of the invention of the triangular wheel. It replaced the four sided (square) wheel and was hailed as a major break through because it eliminated one bump. And that was sometime ago.
I believe it was once one of these hats that was recycled by some cheap-assed frugal Yankee...

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(that was just an excuse to use that picture... )
Well, Fred, you didn't use ENOUGH of "that picture."

And I believe I speak for many here. :p

 
I use a large aluminum roaster pan for the drain pan. Low and plenty of capacity.

I stole this idea after reading that John Ryan did this trick of changing oil in Walmart parking lots on the road and then recycled the oil back with the auto deparmtent when he was done.

 
Shortly after I got married, I needed to service my car. Wanted something to drain the oil into. Went into the kitchen, found this perfect tray thing in the oven, large enough to go under the drain plug and the filter. Worked a treat.

The disadvantage was the withdrawal of "marital privileges" for some weeks afterwards :( .

 
Shortly after I got married, I needed to service my car. Wanted something to drain the oil into. Went into the kitchen, found this perfect tray thing in the oven, large enough to go under the drain plug and the filter. Worked a treat.
The disadvantage was the withdrawal of "marital privileges" for some weeks afterwards
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Ah...mcatrophy, she didn't let you wash the dishes for a for a couple weeks...
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Yeah... I'm not balancing a partly full oil drain pan on 2 by 4's just so I don't have to put the bike onto the sidestand. I mean, how hard is it to put the bike on the side-stand, drain the gear lube, and then stick it back up on the center stand? Easy peasy.
I know Old Guy mentioned use of wood blocks, but let me clarify my use of that pan:

Drain engine oil into pan

Remove filter and drain it into pan

Install new filter and drain plug

Slide pan to rear of bike

Here's the tough part ;) - lift spout end of pan up a whole inch and rest it on the rear rim

Remove final drive drain bolt and watch oil drain into pan with no spillage ever over the past 90,000 miles of oil draining :)

No trees were harmed in the draining of oil on my FJR and I save a whole 2 seconds over Fred's method. LOL :)

 
I use a large aluminum roaster pan for the drain pan. Low and plenty of capacity.
I stole this idea after reading that John Ryan did this trick of changing oil in Walmart parking lots on the road and then recycled the oil back with the auto deparmtent when he was done.
A John Ryan parking lot maintenance operation......

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man you guys are engineering geniuses!!!!!!!! I drain the rear drive oil first, since that is heavier oil, gather up all of the stuff for engine oil change & all

the rear drive oil is gone. NOW here is the hard part, pay attention: with the bike on the CENTER stand place a piece of card board(like from a case

of beer) between the rear drive drain plug & the pan to keep the drive oil from getting on your tire.

 
Dammit, if I had known it was this complicated and this much trouble and required all these special custom made tools just to change the oil in the damned thing I would never have ordered one. I should have just spent my money on a nice Prius.

What a POS bike.

 
Dammit, if I had known it was this complicated and this much trouble and required all these special custom made tools just to change the oil in the damned thing I would never have ordered one. I should have just spent my money on a nice Prius.
What a POS bike.
Wait till your centerstand folds up and toasts your plastics!!

 
I guess I am just a minimalist. I mean, I like buying (and making) tools as much as the next guy, but if I can do something with little effort without extra tools, by gum that's what I'll do. Saves me 15 minutes looking for the damn tool I made last time and put away in that special place "Just so I wouldn't forget where it was". ;)

I've never used foil on any oil change in my life. I couldn't be bothered. I just remove the lower faring screw and then stick the Allen wrench (that I already have in my hand) into the empty screw hole to prop that little faring piece away, you know the one, then pull off the filter. Any oil that runs down from the filter onto the lower engine case gets a cursory wipe after the new filter has gone back on. A little oil on the outside just helps prevent corrosion. ;)

Seriously, I don't think there is a wrong way to do an oil change unless you forget to replace the oil or the drain plug (like Ross). So let's get down to the important stuff... What weight Amsoil are you USING? :rolleyes:

 
I think it was a good move on Ross's part to rinse the inside of the engine with fresh, clean oil. I recommend that to everyone, especially if they use the Yamalube.

I am going to run Harley Davidson V-Twin oil in my FJR. If it can keep a Harley running it has to be good.
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Just joking my HD friends, just joking. But I am going to mix in some Mercury Quicksilver 2 cycle outboard motor oil to keep the inside of the exhaust system from corroding. Hopefully this will plug up the catalytic convertor which will help quiet the overly loud factory exhaust.

 
Dammit, if I had known it was this complicated and this much trouble and required all these special custom made tools just to change the oil in the damned thing I would never have ordered one. I should have just spent my money on a nice Prius.
What a POS bike.
You got that right. I must be doing something wrong, though, because mine is one of the easiest I've had to change the oil on.

 
I guess I am just a minimalist. I mean, I like buying (and making) tools as much as the next guy, but if I can do something with little effort without extra tools, by gum that's what I'll do. Saves me 15 minutes looking for the damn tool I made last time and put away in that special place "Just so I wouldn't forget where it was".
wink.png

I've never used foil on any oil change in my life. I couldn't be bothered. I just remove the lower faring screw and then stick the Allen wrench (that I already have in my hand) into the empty screw hole to prop that little faring piece away, you know the one, then pull off the filter. Any oil that runs down from the filter onto the lower engine case gets a cursory wipe after the new filter has gone back on. A little oil on the outside just helps prevent corrosion.
wink.png


Seriously, I don't think there is a wrong way to do an oil change unless you forget to replace the oil or the drain plug (like Ross). So let's get down to the important stuff... What weight Amsoil are you USING?
rolleyes.gif
I have a "special toolbox" just for the metric stuff. In it I keep whatever I've bought/made/stolen for the bike.

I long ago mangled the socket head fairing screw and replaced it with a hex head cap screw. I also just flex and prop back the plastic and foam with the allen wrench.

 
Dammit, if I had known it was this complicated and this much trouble and required all these special custom made tools just to change the oil in the damned thing I would never have ordered one. I should have just spent my money on a nice Prius.
What a POS bike.
Wait till your centerstand folds up and toasts your plastics!!
I was lucky - when my centerstand went my truck door stopped the fall
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