Another Burnt Wiring Harness?

[JamesK]

I really don't think the Soltek wiring has anything to do with the problem. He has simply tapped off a tiny bit of high beam power to energize a relay. If anything that would help the grounding issue not hurt it.
Unfortunately Don you have replaced one defective wiring harness with another defective wiring harness. That is the issue here. When I read of potential "Spider" problems I checked and lubed all of mine and still had a "Stranded on the side of the road" failure not long after. The tell tale sign is the turn signal indicator lights on dim. What do the turn signal indicators have to do with headlights? They share the common grounding point through the spiders.

The work around here is to cut off all of the Spiders and solder the wires together. In my case I also added another wire to each splice to provide an additional path to ground just to be sure. I simply located a nearby bolt with a good ground and installed the other end of the wire there. Remember we have had failure notice on 2 different spiders. One by the left upper front corner of the engine and one by the left headlamp. How long wil it be before the others act up? I don't want to know. I am in the process of doing them all.

Just my $.02

+1

Don't forget Smitty's 3rd spider, the one near the left fork.

 

[dcarver]

No news yet. CrZy8 went to an authorized dealer for new CCT on YES warranty. This will be the 3rd tensioner in approx 70k miles. While she was in the trailer, took her to an independent shop, Hidden Power Cycle Clinic in Paso Robles for valve adjustment. When the tank is off I'll inspect the spiders, relay, and connectors.

Thanks everyone for the support and advice. I'll keep you posted.

 

[SkooterG]

3rd tensioner? WTF you doing to that poor FJR?

 

[Brodie]

No news yet. CrZy8 went to an authorized dealer for new CCT on YES warranty. This will be the 3rd tensioner in approx 70k miles.<snp>

Don

When the YES warranty runs out you may think about the APE tensioner.

• It's cheaper
• One is all you need.
• It will not back off by itself.

Just a thought.

Brodie

 

[RadioHowie]

No news yet. CrZy8 went to an authorized dealer for new CCT on YES warranty. This will be the 3rd tensioner in approx 70k miles.<snp>

Don

When the YES warranty runs out you may think about the APE tensioner.

• It's cheaper
• One is all you need.
• It will not back off by itself.

Just a thought.

Brodie

Brodie, have you taken a look at the CCT survey? I believe you and I are the only disciples in "The Church of Manual".

I just hit my first oil change on Frankenbike since the rebirth. From Day One of the APE install, I promised to God and the Universe I'd check the tension on the chain at each minor service interval just to keep my eyes on things.

Granted, it's only been a little over 3,000 miles, on a brand new cam chain, running in brand new Rotella-T Syn, so I wasn't expecting any adjustment would be necessary.

I was right. The adjuster didn't move a micron, using my "finger tight" adjustment method. There's been no rattle of a loose chain, or high-pitched whine of a tight chain. But the adjustment check, not counting the time to lift the tank, took about 45 seconds. Loosen the locknut, attempt to screw in the adjuster, tighten the locknut. Takes longer to lift the tank, prop it up, lower it down and bolt it back, than it does to check the adjustment.

I ride with confidence.

 

[dcarver]

No news yet. CrZy8 went to an authorized dealer for new CCT on YES warranty. This will be the 3rd tensioner in approx 70k miles.<snp>

Don

When the YES warranty runs out you may think about the APE tensioner.

• It's cheaper
• One is all you need.
• It will not back off by itself.

Just a thought.

Brodie

Brodie, have you taken a look at the CCT survey? I believe you and I are the only disciples in "The Church of Manual".

I just hit my first oil change on Frankenbike since the rebirth. From Day One of the APE install, I promised to God and the Universe I'd check the tension on the chain at each minor service interval just to keep my eyes on things.

Granted, it's only been a little over 3,000 miles, on a brand new cam chain, running in brand new Rotella-T Syn, so I wasn't expecting any adjustment would be necessary.

I was right. The adjuster didn't move a micron, using my "finger tight" adjustment method. There's been no rattle of a loose chain, or high-pitched whine of a tight chain. But the adjustment check, not counting the time to lift the tank, took about 45 seconds. Loosen the locknut, attempt to screw in the adjuster, tighten the locknut. Takes longer to lift the tank, prop it up, lower it down and bolt it back, than it does to check the adjustment.

I ride with confidence.

I hear you manual guys, but...the CCT has been redesigned, hopefully improved.

If nothing else, I'm really curious to see if the new part gets noisy in 30k or so.

Curiosity killed the cat, but I have YES, and it's a Yamaha part.

When YES runs out, I'm off this FJR and possibly onto a new platform, time will tell.

 

[Harald]

No news yet. CrZy8 went to an authorized dealer for new CCT on YES warranty. This will be the 3rd tensioner in approx 70k miles. While she was in the trailer, took her to an independent shop, Hidden Power Cycle Clinic in Paso Robles for valve adjustment. When the tank is off I'll inspect the spiders, relay, and connectors.
Thanks everyone for the support and advice. I'll keep you posted.

Having just gone through losing my headlights at night on the way home, I can tell you a few things about that circuit. The high beam relay is above the left headlight and should be accessible with those 2 left side panels (A and B?) removed. The 2 spiders in the nose are hard to get to and the one on the left required searching even though I had the whole nose assembly on my bench. Someone mentioned they could access it without removing the whole nose, but I couldn't imagine trying to solder those wires together while on the bike. Removing the nose is not difficult because once you disconnect all the connectors on both sides, there's only 3 bolts to remove and the whole assy comes off.

Despite the fact that your harness is new, I still suspect a spider and especially the one above the left headlight that they might have missed. Good luck and keep us in the loop.

 

[Brodie]

Are all the spyders on the main wiring harness?

Or are a couple on a sub harness?
Brodie

 

[JamesK]

Are all the spyders on the main wiring harness?
Or are a couple on a sub harness?
Brodie

Well the 3 at the front would technically be on a sub-harness, since the main harness plugs into the wiring running to the front of the bike, under the nose piece.

I sure feel better knowing that I've soldered all the spiders and have run separate beefy ground wires from each soldered spider to a nearby chassis bolt.