Anti-sieze on brake caliper bolts?

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...In most cases the torque settings for steel bolts threaded into alloy threads are far below the elasticity of the steel bolt. So there is not bolt stretch going on here...
There is bolt stretch...if there is a tightening force, there is a deflection in the bolt. But since the deflection is in the elastic range, the bolt returns to it's original length.

Let's put it this way, show me a bolt that has gone past the elastic range of deflection for the material, and I will show you a bolt that can't be reused because it has not returned to it's original shape.

I think Donal has it right...the main thing is that the bolt sees the same tension that is specified by the torque tension. So, since these aren't engine parts we're talking about...the approximations with no-seize on threaded parts susceptible to rust seem like a decent enough common sense approach.

Except for that drain plug...and maybe the T-bar.
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Just .02 worth.

Back in the days when dirt bikes shook every bolt and fastener out, savvy racers used grease on the bolts/nuts/fasteners and the loosening factor greatly reduced.

I've not had one anti-seize coated fastener fall out, and all the threads on KrZy8, a well used and abused 2k6 are in great shape. Not one thread stripped. OK, one. :)

FWIW YMMV.

 
Just .02 worth.
Back in the days when dirt bikes shook every bolt and fastener out, savvy racers used grease on the bolts/nuts/fasteners and the loosening factor greatly reduced.

I've not had one anti-seize coated fastener fall out, and all the threads on KrZy8, a well used and abused 2k6 are in great shape. Not one thread stripped. OK, one. :)

FWIW YMMV.
I use anti-seize too and have the same results you do DC.

+1, Gunny!

 
If you thread steel bolts into aluminum, you best use anti-seize on the bolts. The cheap bolts seem to do OK, the expensive aluminum they thread into usually suffers the damage.

 

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