Any 2 stroke gurus?

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Holy crap! Bike Bandit wants $67 for the float and $48 for the float valve assy!! But, you can get a whole new carb for $96. Dayum! Maybe I'll check around a little more...

Try Jets R Us they might have what you want. It comes up with Makuni info, but I got the parts I needed for my Keihn carb on the GasGas. Prices were very good for what I needed. IIRC the float for my 38mm Kiehn was $16 and change.

EDIT: it could be incorrect float level settings too.

 
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Plug looks pretty darn good.

Continue eliminating the easy stuff, sounds like you might be on to something with the carb. I do remember my 175 leaked a little fuel once in awhile... ;)

--G
It sure doesn't look like a lean problem. If it acts up again, I'll kill the motor and pull the plug right away and see what it looks like then.

 
Holy crap! Bike Bandit wants $67 for the float and $48 for the float valve assy!! But, you can get a whole new carb for $96. Dayum! Maybe I'll check around a little more...

Try Jets R Us they might have what you want. It comes up with Makuni info, but I got the parts I needed for my Keihn carb on the GasGas. Prices were very good for what I needed. IIRC the float for my 38mm Kiehn was $16 and change.

EDIT: it could be incorrect float level settings too.
Thanks for the link! I couldn't find anybody that had carb parts available at a reasonable price yesterday so I said F-it and just ordered a float bowl gasket and plan on trying to clean the carb and set the float level. I probably ought to get a shop manual...

 
Holy crap! Bike Bandit wants $67 for the float and $48 for the float valve assy!! But, you can get a whole new carb for $96. Dayum! Maybe I'll check around a little more...

Try Jets R Us they might have what you want. It comes up with Makuni info, but I got the parts I needed for my Keihn carb on the GasGas. Prices were very good for what I needed. IIRC the float for my 38mm Kiehn was $16 and change.

EDIT: it could be incorrect float level settings too.
Thanks for the link! I couldn't find anybody that had carb parts available at a reasonable price yesterday so I said F-it and just ordered a float bowl gasket and plan on trying to clean the carb and set the float level. I probably ought to get a shop manual...
They have exploded drawings for various carbs on their website. They may have the manual you want too.

 
A good ohmmeter can test the coil,after getting the tolerences. Early RD coils were marginal so I hung two Chrysler car coils using a balast resister with. Correct heat range on sparkplug sometimes helps. I wonder if the service the owner had done included de-coking thhe piston/head? That's a regular part of 2-stroke maintenance. If the exhaust has a removable baffle, you decoke it also. If there's too much coke on the piston,it wll glow red,causing misfiring. I would double ck the point settings. Once you get it sorted ou,it'll put a grin on your face. I still keep a 2 stroke around when I want to relive my youth.
I did read somwhere about decarbonizing the exhaust, but not anything about how to do it. With only 2500 miles, should it need this done? Wouldn't that affect it cold or hot? I do remember the PO saying he's running a hotter plug...a 7 instead of an 8 IIRC. Maybe I should get the stock plug.
If crappy oil was used it could be coked. I used the round endd of a hacksaw blade for the piston tops, various tools in the exhaust port and I made a thing from a beltline pin. It has really stout cable wire inside,wrapped. I unwrapped some of the stuff holding the cables together,then frayed the enda,used this in a 1/2 inch drillpushed it thru the headpipe,reversing the drill . Some people put the pipes on a charcoal bed of glowing coals,let it cool then tap the pipes.

 
A good ohmmeter can test the coil,after getting the tolerences. Early RD coils were marginal so I hung two Chrysler car coils using a balast resister with. Correct heat range on sparkplug sometimes helps. I wonder if the service the owner had done included de-coking thhe piston/head? That's a regular part of 2-stroke maintenance. If the exhaust has a removable baffle, you decoke it also. If there's too much coke on the piston,it wll glow red,causing misfiring. I would double ck the point settings. Once you get it sorted ou,it'll put a grin on your face. I still keep a 2 stroke around when I want to relive my youth.
I did read somwhere about decarbonizing the exhaust, but not anything about how to do it. With only 2500 miles, should it need this done? Wouldn't that affect it cold or hot? I do remember the PO saying he's running a hotter plug...a 7 instead of an 8 IIRC. Maybe I should get the stock plug.
If crappy oil was used it could be coked. I used the round endd of a hacksaw blade for the piston tops, various tools in the exhaust port and I made a thing from a beltline pin. It has really stout cable wire inside,wrapped. I unwrapped some of the stuff holding the cables together,then frayed the enda,used this in a 1/2 inch drillpushed it thru the headpipe,reversing the drill . Some people put the pipes on a charcoal bed of glowing coals,let it cool then tap the pipes.
I read somewhere a guy suggested to spray Easy Off oven cleaner in the exhaust, let it sit, and then rinse it out with water. Sounds feasible, it gets the black caked on crap out of ovens! Is there a milage point this is recommended for 2-strokes? It wasn't mentioned in the owners manual; yeah, the guy still had the owners manual!

 
Go to Vintage motorcycle days at Lexington, someone will have what you need.
I'm gonna try just cleaning the carb out really good and set the float height and hope the float valve works. It's only got <2500 miles on it, shouldn't be worn out!

 
Go to Vintage motorcycle days at Lexington, someone will have what you need.
I'm gonna try just cleaning the carb out really good and set the float height and hope the float valve works. It's only got <2500 miles on it, shouldn't be worn out!

True, but the rubber tip could be hard and not sealing. They were fairly cheap on the website I sent you.

 
Ok, so I took the carb apart and the float valve looks fine, it's all metal, no rubber tip and is nice and smooth. I went ahead and raised the float height a few mm, hopfully that, a good cleaning and a new float bowl gasket that should be here tomorrow will fix the leak.

I also took the stator cover off and it had about 4-5 cc of oil puddled down in the bottom. Is this normal or a sign the crank seal is leaking? The stator and everything looked clean and dry. Please tell me it's normal!

Edit: https://www.dansmc.com/troubleshooting2.htm

Hmmm, this guy says sometimes the seals will 'recondition' themselves after some running time if the bike has been sitting for a long time...which I'm sure this one has.

 
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