Any bicyclists around?

[Randy]

I've been dorking around with a run of the mill Diamondback mountain bike. Nice little bike for putting around and mild trails, but, I'm considering getting a road bike. Guy at the bike shop (real bike shop, not Dick's or anything like that) gave me a sales pitch on the different types of frames and components. I know nothing. He said that a full carbon frame is top of the line (except for full titanium) and will absorb a lot of the road imperfections. Aluminum frame and carbon forks and carbon rear part of the frame will also make for a nice ride and is a nice compromise to full carbon. Next step down is full aluminum frame and carbon forks.

Then we started talking components. He said I shouldn't be too concerned with the hubs for the middle of the road and up bikes ($800 +). For the shifter/derailleurs, he said ultegra/105 10 speed is the cat's meow. Next step down is Tiagra 9 speed. We didn't talk much more about components.

My question is, for a beginner/novice, how far up the ladder should I climb? Should I expect something decent for less than $600 or should I step up to the $900-$1100 range or jump even higher? The shop I was at sells Specialized, Felt, and Jamis. They have a leftover '06 Jamis Zenith Comp for $1500 https://www.jamisbikes.com/canada/bikes/06_...xenithcomp.html

Good deal or is there something significant that was upgraded from '06 to '07?

 

[SPORT]

A Fast reply would be:

Anything under the $600 range is reatively cheap and heavy.

Anything over the $600 range you'll find better components as well as a lighter frame and wheels.

Anything over the $900 range, the real differences lie in shaving ounces off the total weight.

Sizes should be in centemeters and are typically an inseam measurement (at least they were 10 years ago).

I would stick with the $600 range until you find the limits of that bike...which should be years.

My wife completed a Triathalon several years ago. She didn't have a bike so we bought her an average road bike. We paid roughly $750 for it. All aluminum with carbon forks. It rides very nice. Infact, it rides better than my old $1,200 Italian Somec I had growing up. I think it weighs in at about 21lbs. A high-end bike now-a-days I believe is closer to 18lbs, which I find as amazing.

Randy, I'm near your neck of the woods...let me know how I can help.

Hope this helps.

 

[Randy]

A Fast reply would be:Anything under the $600 range is reatively cheap and heavy.

Anything over the $600 range you'll find better components as well as a lighter frame and wheels.

Anything over the $900 range, the real differences lie in shaving ounces off the total weight.

Sizes should be in centemeters and are typically an inseam measurement (at least they were 10 years ago).

I would stick with the $600 range until you find the limits of that bike...which should be years.

My wife completed a Triathalon several years ago. She didn't have a bike so we bought her an average road bike. We paid roughly $750 for it. All aluminum with carbon forks. It rides very nice. Infact, it rides better than my old $1,200 Italian Somec I had growing up. I think it weighs in at about 21lbs. A high-end bike now-a-days I believe is closer to 18lbs, which I find as amazing.

Randy, I'm near your neck of the woods...let me know how I can help.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the response. The sizes aren't as simple as inseam measurements, as i understand it. I think high ends are less than 18 lbs. The one i mentioned above that's on special is 17.75.

 

[ponyfool]

It's too bad your town doesn't have extensive Craigslist ads for bikes.

I just bought my wife her full carbon Kestrel Airfoil Pro triathlon race bike with Shimano Ultega Aero gear with an MSRP of $4000 for less than $2500 and I can't tell the difference between it and the one on the show room. This bike had less than 100 miles on it. The person who bought it had a change of heart in getting into the sport.

I will tell you, she has had many different components on her various bikes but says the Ultega is the smoothest and most reliable shifting she's ever experienced.

 

[taterides]

I ride and have for years.That seems like a great deal on the Jamis. I would not hesitate if you can spare the cash. Just be 100% sure it is the proper fit. If you go for the Jamis you will not have to upgrade in the future. I would at least spend $1000 or so as a starter, it will make a difference. Good luck and let us know.

 

[SPORT]

Thanks for the response. The sizes aren't as simple as inseam measurements, as i understand it. I think high ends are less than 18 lbs. The one i mentioned above that's on special is 17.75.

I guess that's what happens when you leave a sport for too many years.

Best wishes to your endeavors.

 

[stormrider]

randy,

Give me a buzz regarding bikes

 

[rickysnickers]

I have been racing and riding mtn and road for a few years. As a first bike i would go with the AL frame w/carbon fork and seat stays, meaning carbon rear as well. The more you pay, the lighter the bike and the better the components. I would stay away from a full carbon bike for now until you figure out what you really want to do. Honestly, I'd go into the $900-$1200. That should get you a nice riding 20 speed Ultegra/105 bike. And, you can't go wrong w/Specialized.

Rick

 

[FJRMGM]

a Giant TCR with Ultegra components is a full carbon bike - two of my riding buddies have them and love the ride they have and they are very competitively priced.

Stay with Ultegra or better components - it lasts longer and shifts cleaner and quicker.

 

[Grumpy]

I haven't been in the biking scene for 7 or 8 yers, but when I was, Giant had a wonderful carbon frame bike that had good components and was a lot of bike for the money. I bought one of these for my wife and she still loves it! Kesteral is another very good brand. It might be worth your time to talk with the guys in the back that are having to do the maintenance work. Most of them ride and know what holds up and what is sales BS.

I'd plan to spend something around $1000 to get a high quality bike.

jim

 

[Randy]

Thanks for all of the replies. It doesn't take long to get from totally oblivious to somewhat educated.

I've got a lot of test riding to do.

 

[Aviator]

Randy,

If you still need help let me know everything everyone else has been saying is pretty good advice. I have been riding for years both Mountain Bikes and Road Bikes and have 2-3 kinds of each with different uses.

Stick with AL frame and carbon forks, seat stays etc. It will make a difference in price and still give you what you need. They few ounces that you save with all carbon will not make a difference to you right now.

Once you get riding, let me know I can show you a few tricks with hills and gearing. Or let's chat at EOM, in fact I missing a 1/2 Ironman to be at EOM.

 

[05fjrBluedevil]

Since i have also been riding for the last two weeks starting slow and working up to considering purchasing a nice road bike as my 43 pound target store bought old mountian bike is just not cutting it...

I went to a local store and they seem to carry TREK and LEmonds, Kliens and another brand, why would one not just buy a motobecane off the internet?????

They seem like they have nice components? Is there a hidden issue with buying this type of bike?

thanks

Mike

 

[Randy]

Since i have also been riding for the last two weeks starting slow and working up to considering purchasing a nice road bike as my 43 pound target store bought old mountian bike is just not cutting it...

I went to a local store and they seem to carry TREK and LEmonds, Kliens and another brand, why would one not just buy a motobecane off the internet?????

They seem like they have nice components? Is there a hidden issue with buying this type of bike?

thanks

Mike

Based on what I'm hearing, unless it's a huge scam in the bicyling world, the correct fit of the frame, seat, seat post, etc is key.

 

[Grumpy]

Correct fit is a given. For my money, you should be able to pick the bike up with your little finger on the top tube.

Jim

 

[Kevin Daly]

Ok dude,

I raced road and mountian bikes for a few years. I have had 500 dollar used bikes and state of the art carbon fiber and everything in between.

You can waste a lot of money on a bike and be miserable but think you have a great bike. The fact is you probably dont even know if you will like raod biking (you wiill).

At any rate let me give you the best advice you can hope for: buy a used steel frame look for a frame with the Reynolds 531 tubing label! it will be near vintage or vintage but believe me when i tell you it is more supple and solid than any modern bike! You can find bikes with the highest quality campangnolo components. on a good bike they can be 20 years old and is excellent shape if the bike has been in a closet.

Take your time and look around. You can buy yesterdays pro racing bike for a couple hundred dollars; you wont be dissapointed! and if you find that you really like road work maybe racing then you will want to get a newer and lighter bike but my bet is that you will ride the 531 tubing when you not racing.

 

[Grumpy]

Ok dude,I raced road and mountian bikes for a few years. I have had 500 dollar used bikes and state of the art carbon fiber and everything in between.

You can waste a lot of money on a bike and be miserable but think you have a great bike. The fact is you probably dont even know if you will like raod biking (you wiill).

At any rate let me give you the best advice you can hope for: buy a used steel frame look for a frame with the Reynolds 531 tubing label! it will be near vintage or vintage but believe me when i tell you it is more supple and solid than any modern bike! You can find bikes with the highest quality campangnolo components. on a good bike they can be 20 years old and is excellent shape if the bike has been in a closet.

Take your time and look around. You can buy yesterdays pro racing bike for a couple hundred dollars; you wont be dissapointed! and if you find that you really like road work maybe racing then you will want to get a newer and lighter bike but my bet is that you will ride the 531 tubing when you not racing.

That's really good advice!

Jim

 

[Randy]

I understand the advice, but, my life lessons have taught me that when you get used, you're getting someone else's junk. Sometimes it's all good, but, many times, there's a very good reason why someone is looking to get rid of something like this. You don't know if the prior owner was meticulous with maintenance and care or if he hammered on it and it's a ticking time bomb. If it was a motorcycle which I kinda know something about, I would know what to look for and how to fix it if it broke. With bicycles, I know nothing about them and don't know what to look for or how to fix them.

I feel more comfortable looking at something new with a warranty. Going looking/shopping tomorrow

 

[nitelife]

I understand the advice, but, my life lessons have taught me that when you get used, you're getting someone else's junk. Sometimes it's all good, but, many times, there's a very good reason why someone is looking to get rid of something like this. You don't know if the prior owner was meticulous with maintenance and care or if he hammered on it and it's a ticking time bomb. If it was a motorcycle which I kinda know something about, I would know what to look for and how to fix it if it broke. With bicycles, I know nothing about them and don't know what to look for or how to fix them.I feel more comfortable looking at something new with a warranty. Going looking/shopping tomorrow

I ride a Felt F65. IT was my first road bike and I love it. Be prepared to spend more money customizing it for you. I replaced the saddle and stem right away. My boss bought a new Felt off of Ebay for $400 cheaper than local dealer. HE had a problem with the carbon crank coming apart and Felt would not warranty it because he did not buy it from an authorized dealer. If I had to do it all over again I would buy another Felt.