Any one with a Gen III planning on doing a TB sync shortly?

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Have you checked your TPS? With the diag code it's easy to do.
Thanks. Did this just for fun a couple of months ago before all this started and was okay but good point, I need to re-check it. Will do this in the next couple of days.

 
It really doesn't matter which one is the reference. You just want all 4 to be at the same vacuum. The Idle speed is automatically controlled by the ECU on 3rd gens. The only time you'd run into idle speed problems is if you cranked them all in too far or out too far.
I suspect that they paint the white dot on whichever cylinder has the lowest vacuum after they are all opened a predetermined amount (like 1/3 turn) or maybe when they are all closed fully. That way the other 3 can all just be opened up a little to match it.
What you suggest makes perfects sense but the stumble is not going away with the #1 screw any where from seated to 1/2 turn out and then the others re-synced accordingly. Several times the bike has run very smoothly for up to about 100 miles and is seemingly back to normal, only to start stumbling again. Yesterday I tried #1 at one turn out as suggested, reset the others and went for about 80 miles, and again, all seemed well until about the 40-50 mile mark and I started getting a very slight surge but not as bad as previous times.

The stumble was very slight so I'm going to live with it for a few more days and see. This issue makes no sense to me though. Why should it seem fine after initial sync and then the stumble creep in again? Been trying to figure if I've affected something else in the adjustment process, maybe fuel filter plugging up with all the tipping up and down of the tank? Bike has only 14k miles so this seems unlikely. Also ran some Techron through it in hopes maybe it was water in the system, also replaced the plugs, but no joy. Thanks for your input though, any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Your stumble likely has nothing whatever to do with the throttle body balance.

 
Aaaaaand, yet another reason I don't buy used bikes. IF your bike has a stumble, seemingly, the only '14 out there with one, it should still be under warranty. Why not take it to the dealer to address instead of guessing; when you have no idea what you're doing?

 
"Your stumble likely has nothing whatever to do with the throttle body balance."

I'm starting to think this also since it is not consistent.

Aaaaaand, yet another reason I don't buy used bikes. IF your bike has a stumble, seemingly, the only '14 out there with one, it should still be under warranty. Why not take it to the dealer to address instead of guessing; when you have no idea what you're doing?
Well, after 40+ years working on bikes and cars I would beg to differ about not having any idea what I'm doing. I'm simply trying to diagnose an elusive issue. I'm reluctant to have a dealer dig into this since no one touches my bikes but me. In this case you may be right though, it's probably time to see what the dealer can come up with. Thanks.

 
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I do not blame you. I would not bring my bike back to the stealership unless there was a factory recall or something major that was covered under warranty. Or maybe if I hit another deer and just needed some body work, but it wouldn't be the dealer I bought the bike at.

Case in point... I mentioned to ionbeam (during the covered bridges ride) that I was surprised to find steel screws holding my stock windshield in on the '14. Didn't the Yammi design engineers know it was a safety thing to use break-away plastic screws?

Well, as it turns out the Yammi engineers are still on the ball. The place I bought my bike assembled it wrong. They put the plastic screws in the dash panels and the steel Allen screws in the windshield. Of course I have now rectified that mistake and looked around at anything else that they touched and could have would have screwed up.

It will not be going back to Mom's for anything.

 
I do not blame you. I would not bring my bike back to the stealership unless there was a factory recall or something major that was covered under warranty. Or maybe if I hit another deer and just needed some body work, but it wouldn't be the dealer I bought the bike at.
Case in point... I mentioned to ionbeam (during the covered bridges ride) that I was surprised to find steel screws holding my stock windshield in on the '14. Didn't the Yammi design engineers know it was a safety thing to use break-away plastic screws?

Well, as it turns out the Yammi engineers are still on the ball. The place I bought my bike assembled it wrong. They put the plastic screws in the dash panels and the steel Allen screws in the windshield. Of course I have now rectified that mistake and looked around at anything else that they touched and could have would have screwed up.

It will not be going back to Mom's for anything.
Exactly! When I brought mine home I found the steering head nut was literally finger tight and the front fender bolts also loose. I found these items after trailering the bike home and was very glad I didn't ride back to the house.

 
Thought I would post this up for posterity. Was able to find out that the number one reference air bleed screw (the one marked in white) for the Gen III is seated/screwed all the way in, not open at all.

 
Interesting. I'll try and verify that when ever I get around to doing my first sync.

If it is true, they would have just chosen the cylinder with the lowest vacuum when they are all closed and then matched the others to it. Which makes a great deal of sense if they are trying to minimize the amount of bypass air through the sync circuits, since the Idle speed is now regulated via a separate bypass circuit..

 
I know this is now months old...did the OP ever get it sorted out? I have a similar issue with a 15 ES with 685 miles on it.
Yes got it sorted. See post #26 above and #31 below. The painted/marked air screw in the case of my '14 ES and Fred's should be fully seated in.

 
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