Any problems likely w/ignition security going back to oem TTC?

[escapefjrtist]

You're making this too hard 'mambo. It helps if you have a buddy/wife/SO to support the bars during the process.

• Cover both sides of fairing with towels and remove the bars. I don't remember with the Heli if there's enough room for the large socket w/o removing the bars first. To remove the top clamp you'll need a 36mm socket. It's tight, removing won't effect bearing adjustment. Loosen that first, then pinch bolts for both fork legs. Once you loosen up zip ties, there's enough slack in the ignition switch wiring to lift and flip the triple clamp upside down. Remove switch bolts.
  
• It helps if you have a small jack / wood block under the headers to just take pressure off forks. They'll spring a bit when the top clamp is removed.
  
• Assembly is reverse beginning with ignition switch. You might need to slightly raise/lower jack to get forks to line up with clamp.
  
• Tighten everything back to spec. Done, now crack open your favorite adult beverage to celebrate.
  

~G

 

[blakmambo]

You're making this too hard 'mambo. It helps if you have a buddy/wife/SO to support the bars during the process.

• Cover both sides of fairing with towels and remove the bars. I don't remember with the Heli if there's enough room for the large socket w/o removing the bars first. To remove the top clamp you'll need a 36mm socket. It's tight, removing won't effect bearing adjustment. Loosen that first, then pinch bolts for both fork legs. Once you loosen up zip ties, there's enough slack in the ignition switch wiring to lift and flip the triple clamp upside down. Remove switch bolts.
  
• It helps if you have a small jack / wood block under the headers to just take pressure off forks. They'll spring a bit when the top clamp is removed.
  
• Assembly is reverse beginning with ignition switch. You might need to slightly raise/lower jack to get forks to line up with clamp.
  
• Tighten everything back to spec. Done, now crack open your favorite adult beverage to celebrate.
  

~G

@escapefjrtist:

Ah, well, I spent a lot of years in construction working around a lot of folks who taught me the lesson of using "install first, then read instruction" . . . mantra . . . so thanks for"the instruction" . . . I would not have thought of "flipping the TTC to get to those bolts" . . . figuring that the wires would as usual be "just barely enough to get the job done" in length.

But, I believe I will need to get the 36mm socket because with the Heli-Bar flanges I don't think I can get clean purchase on the nut, etc . . . .

At first I wasn't get the "jack under the headers" . . . but I get it now . . . my olde moto mechanics would get a wood block in there to protect the plastic . . . .  But obviously this isn't something I've messed with in the past.  I preferred riding over wrenching, but now I don't enjoy the metro streets ride over to the shop, I'll give this a try when the parts arrive.  I ordered the adjuster and the various nuts/bolts from your linked site, saved $10 over the ronayers site . . . slated to arrive sometime in . . . a couple of weeks?? to get from TX to CA . . . pony express riders I guess . . . ???

 

[blakmambo]

Gents:

Posting back to say, "Good news" . . . the operation was generally a "success" thanks to the help provided here the bars are back to "semi-stock" spec. & position.  Weather was a tad inclement here so I just did my loop around the neighborhood rather than venturing further out, but as I had hoped the stock position is canted a bit forward, more "sport-bike-like" and that helps absorb the torque hit much more than the "hypo-ape hanger" position that the Tour-Performance was giving, i.e., the feeling of rotating off the bike while twisting the throttle . . . .

And, it only took the shade-tree mechanic about 3.5 hrs of effort to change the TTC and remount the bars, part of that time included walking a half-mile up to the local hardware store to get some 5/16" washers, because I didn't realize that the heli set up changed the bolts that mounted the ignition, so I didn't order the OEM bolts as perhaps I should have.  Parts took almost a month to get here from the TX Yammie dealer as the plastic bezel part was back-ordered . . . so I have some basic washers to take up the extra bolt length . . . tightened to "good n tight" spec . . . .

Otherwise, all went pretty smoothly . . . one of the TTC bolts "made a break for it" and quicker than you could say spit . . . was gone into the bowels of the bike . . . i.e., did not appear on the ground near the bike.  Still haven't done enough wrenching on bikes to try to pack all of the openings with rags, I did have a towel over the tank, but I think it was one of those . . . "turning the part over to try to get it oriented and test the bolt to see if it would work . . . and the **other** bolt made the quick dash" type of deals . . . gone in a milli-second . . . somewhere . . . perhaps doing some kind of metal on metal abrasion . . . or perhaps it fell out on the brief ride I did.  In the days of yore in my moto career I would have totally removed all the fairing parts to find that part . . . but, I'm so much older than before and . . . and . . . maybe it'll show if and when I get to the 28K-30K first valve check . . . or not . . . .

So, anyway, seat position better, only problem now is the whip-lashed neck from 10 years back that seems to bring hand numbness pretty quickly . . . but, glad to say that it didn't feel like the bar position put too much weight on my wrists as it once was with my 86 Konk OEM bars, low cast aluminum bars with a good windshield . . . .

Thanks again, particularly to @ArtMiller for sharing the OEM TTC part . . . and for the tips to get me through the re-installing.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Glad the swap worked out and hope the revised bars are a better fit!

~G

 

[BanjoBoy]

Excellent! Now get out there 'n ride!