Anybody come from a BMW R1200RT to a FJR1300

[boaks]

My FJR is a piece of shit! New yam seat, Rifle screen, like both, but the engineering on this bike sucks. I can't change tail light bulbs, the wires are too short as are most of other wires. Disconnected the screen retract, that was a stupid Yam idea. Needed bar backs and Grip Puppies for the right hand (a common FJR problem). And now with 282 miles on it, took it back to the dealer 46 miles away due to the AE computer took a dump. Piss poor horns. Faster than my RT, but I'm 63, don't give a shit.
I test rode a new '06 RT back then, much better than my '04. If the RT had an AE model, I would have bought it no matter the cost!! Never again another Yam.!!

Wow, are you serious or just a troll?

The fact that you felt that YOU felt that you needed bar backs and grip puppies is not a design problem with the FJR problem. It's a problem with YOU fitting it. You have to expect to make some minor ergo modifications on just about any bike to customize it to your unique body shape.

And I'm not sure what your malfunction is that you can't change a light bulb. You say the wires are too short. Too short for what? I guarantee you can reach into the tail section and change the bulbs. It may not be convenient, but it can definitely be done.

I can see where some other people might want to have an auto retract to pull the shield down automatically when parked. But the screen retract feature is not my cup of tea either, so I took 10 minutes and pulled the jumper off. To my thinking, Yamaha design engineers outdid themselves by providing a disable jumper. That added (something) to their cost of manufacturing the bike that is purely a convenience.

Don't know what your problem with the YCCS module was, or even if there actually was one. Sometimes stuff happens during manufacture of an item as complex as a motorcycle. That is one big reason they have warranties.

But to label a bike as "piss poor" based on the ticky tack, bullshit crap you listed out makes me think that you should have stuck to the BMWs.

+1 Fred

i'm not even going there....

 

[Indian Scout]

..and Fred W., if someone would give me what I paid for it, I would gladly sell it to them. Yes, bar backs & grip puppies were needed and I expected that. But the wires on the rear bulbs are SOOO short, I can't get the bulbs out of the lens assy!! I kid U not. I tried all 4. Every wire I have had to work on is too short, there is barely room to slice in the accessory connectors. 7 screws to hold on the left side case !??, it only needs 3 (my 1st Honda didn't have any!!). Plus both side case upper panel tabs are 'under' the tank & rear end body work, that's just plain stupid-not to mention hazardous to removing the side panels in 1 piece.
This bike is great to ride, but a real cluster F--- to work on, no matter where I have had to work on it. The thousands of plastic pull screws are another pain, not standardize &, easily lost. I have a box full of parts (screws, bolts, brackets) off this bike that it doesn't needed.

10 minutes for the w/s retract?? Maybe on yours, it took me 6 tries x 10 to find it, took me ten to write the several posts just to find it. All the pics I saw didn't look like my bike.

As far as the YCCC module, I hit the start button and all I get is a flashing yellow light + SHIFt that blinks & tones. No start, no nothing, but everything else works. So when they fix it, they will do the ignition recall too, and with only 282 miles on it. What's next??

Richard, I have an 03 RT that I would be happy to trade you for your lemon FJR.

 

[Fred W]

Richard, I have an 03 RT that I would be happy to trade you for your lemon FJR.

Or if that'n doesn't do it, how about my '73 R60/5? Low kilometers...

 

[b34cez]

I start by saying I have a 2008 R1200RT, I ride 90% two up. After having put 15,000 km on this bike, I tested a FJR 1300. Here are my impressions:

First thing first - Engine

Great linear output for the FJR, from 2000 RPM to red line, vibrations free. The RT is good starting from 3000, but it is great only after 6000, ending on 8000. I find the vibrations acceptable on the RT, but what I don’t find acceptable is this: although the valve clearance is done on each regular 10,000 km interval, after 3,000 km from service the valves are out of adjustment and you feel a dramatic change in engine response in low revs for the RT.

It is clear that, in terms of performance, you can never compare the boxer to the in-line four. The boxer is a compromise in performance, to the benefit of a low center of gravity. How much compromise? Although I do not really need the extra power of the FJR, I just prefer FJR engine.

Let’s put it simple this way: strictly engine wise, I can see someone trading his RT for the FJR, although I cannot imagine the opposite.

Braking

Although there is little perceptible difference between the RT and the FJR, the RT is simply better at this point. You can simply use one or two fingers to squeeze the brakes on the RT and the braking is efficient (front lever – brakes 100% front and 50% back).

Drive train and suspension

With the optional ESA on the RT you really use (at the push of a button) the spring pretension and damper adjustment possibilities. However, once you get to a preferred setting (that fits most of the roads where you ride) you rarely use this feature.

Still, I found the FJR more disturbing on the repeated slow bumps that the RT.

Neither the RT, nor the FJR should ever leave the asphalt.

I found the suspension on the FJR stiffer and more enjoyable on the RT.

Handling

With the low center of gravity due to boxer engine and less weight, anyone would imagine that the RT would be better on the twisties. In fact, there is not much difference between the RT and the FJR at this point.

It is true that I found myself several times scratching boot on the asphalt in the twisties on the RT two up, while I did not put the FJR to such lean angle as I did with the RT, but I put this on time to get used to the bike, as I only rode the FJR less than 500km, while on the RT I have several thousand km.

At slow speed (like town) the RT is a lot easier to maneuver than the FJR, at high speed I did not find major difference between the RT and the FJR, no matter whether twisty, high speed curves or highway.

The occasional task of backing or moving in the parking lot is more difficult on the FJR compared to the RT.

Riding position

Although I do not like sport bikes position and although this may come as a surprise, I find FJR position better than RT. With the RT the position is just too straight up, you have to move your bottom backwards, bend your arms just to get to the similar position that comes standard on the FJR. Also for the legs I find it better on the FJR. To me, the position seems natural on the FJR.

Seat

I preferred the harder seat on the FJR to the softer seat on the RT.

Wind protection

Neither the stock, nor the aftermarket windshield of the FJR came anywhere close to the wind protection that comes standard on the RT.

Mirror view

Better on the FJR.

Bags

Better on RT.

Things you don’t really need on the bike, but glad to be there

Having said that you do NOT really need these things and that you should never choose a bike for its sparkles, but rather put the sparkles on the chosen bike, RT is best at this point.

Things I liked on the RT:

- Tire pressure actual reading on the display (accurate to date);

- Oil level check on the display and warning as soon as the oil level drops to minimum (accurate to date);

- ESA;

- On board stereo (I found it disturbing to listen to music on the headset and I found it pleasant listening to music on the on board speakers up to 140km/h).

Overall conclusion

Above are just my personal feelings of the two moto, above any figures. Even if it is more difficult and even if it takes more time, test both and buy whatever suits you best.

 

[DaveInMn]

Yesterday, I just closed a deal on a new 09 R1200RT. Got a deal on a trade for my old 94 R1100RS that I could resist.

This will be my 4th Beemer and they have some unique qualities (like some other brands) that keep drawing me to them. The RT was in the running when I bought the FJR 18 months ago. The FJR is a great bike and will remain in my garage will be ridden on a regular basis.

I will be picking up the new RT in about 10 days and be taken on a 5-6k break-in tour. I feel fortunate to be able to have both the RT and the FJR (and a Roadliner) as options for rides. All great bikes with different personalities...

 

[Shane Stump]

Yesterday, I just closed a deal on a new 09 R1200RT. Got a deal on a trade for my old 94 R1100RS that I could resist.
This will be my 4th Beemer and they have some unique qualities (like some other brands) that keep drawing me to them. The RT was in the running when I bought the FJR 18 months ago. The FJR is a great bike and will remain in my garage will be ridden on a regular basis.

I will be picking up the new RT in about 10 days and be taken on a 5-6k break-in tour. I feel fortunate to be able to have both the RT and the FJR (and a Roadliner) as options for rides. All great bikes with different personalities...

I just went on my first 600+ mile ride on my new 2009 BMW 1300 GT! All I can say is that it is the smoothest bike I have ever owned. I thought I was going to miss my FJR, but the BMW 1300 GT is much more refined and comfortable for touring!

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[Fred W]

Very glad to hear the K bike is working out for you, Shane. Clearly the K bikes are a whole different animal than the R bikes in the engine department. Much more comparable in performance to an FJR.

You know, I cannot recall anyone ever saying anything bad about the performance or ride quality of the K1x00 GT s. It's always about the style, cost, maintenance hassles and that whole final drive deal. If a person has the $$, a reasonably good dealership or two nearby (as we do here in New Hampshire) and doesn't mind the styling, you really couldn't go wrong with one.

I mean, how often can a final drive fail on ya? :evil:

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

I mean, how often can a final drive fail on ya? :evil:

BMW: "It only happens to a very small percentage....."

At a local BMW shop were two European guys on a major U.S. tour -- one guy was having his rear-drive replaced for the second time. When asked about it he said, "It only happens to a small percentage of them."

 

[Shane Stump]

Very glad to hear the K bike is working out for you, Shane. Clearly the K bikes are a whole different animal than the R bikes in the engine department. Much more comparable in performance to an FJR.

You know, I cannot recall anyone ever saying anything bad about the performance or ride quality of the K1x00 GT s. It's always about the style, cost, maintenance hassles and that whole final drive deal. If a person has the $$, a reasonably good dealership or two nearby (as we do here in New Hampshire) and doesn't mind the styling, you really couldn't go wrong with one.

I mean, how often can a final drive fail on ya? :evil:

Fred,

The BMW 1300 GT has two known switch failure problems and I have already experienced both of them. Both were replaced within 24 hours and since I was over 100 miles from my house (nearest BMW dealer), BMW roadside assistance is covering my one night hotel expense. So far I am really impressed with the bike, dealer, and BMW customer service.

Best Regards,

Shane

 

[Road Runner III]

I have not owned a BMW but I can say I am 6'2' and just love my 08 FJR. When I bought her I upgraded to the factory touring windshield and back trunk with back rest and have no complanits. With the windshield all the way up it all goes over the top of my helmet, it's a beautiful thing. I have had her 14 months and looged over 17,000 miles on her can't seem to stay of her...

 

[n1acguy]

I haven't had both bikes, but also wanted an RT1200. The RTs were more than a brand new FJR on the used market, and there didn't seem to be that many to choose from.

I got the FJR from OTD Motorsports in Marina Del Rey for 14 even. Sounds like you can get the same price today.

From what I can see, it is much easier to farkle a Jap bike compared to a Beemer. This turned out to be a real advantage for me as I decided to lower mine. I don't know if I would have found it necessary to lower the Beemer with it's lower center of gravity, but it would have been way more complicated if I did.

The FJR has a romp stompin motor and is almost as fast as my Bandit 12 was without me doing a thing to it. The first bike I've ever had that didn't need modification to get it to run right.

 

[Spook]

..and Fred W., if someone would give me what I paid for it, I would gladly sell it to them. Yes, bar backs & grip puppies were needed and I expected that. But the wires on the rear bulbs are SOOO short, I can't get the bulbs out of the lens assy!! I kid U not. I tried all 4. Every wire I have had to work on is too short, there is barely room to slice in the accessory connectors. 7 screws to hold on the left side case !??, it only needs 3 (my 1st Honda didn't have any!!). Plus both side case upper panel tabs are 'under' the tank & rear end body work, that's just plain stupid-not to mention hazardous to removing the side panels in 1 piece.
This bike is great to ride, but a real cluster F--- to work on, no matter where I have had to work on it. The thousands of plastic pull screws are another pain, not standardize &, easily lost. I have a box full of parts (screws, bolts, brackets) off this bike that it doesn't needed.

10 minutes for the w/s retract?? Maybe on yours, it took me 6 tries x 10 to find it, took me ten to write the several posts just to find it. All the pics I saw didn't look like my bike.

As far as the YCCC module, I hit the start button and all I get is a flashing yellow light + SHIFt that blinks & tones. No start, no nothing, but everything else works. So when they fix it, they will do the ignition recall too, and with only 282 miles on it. What's next??

Tell ya what I'll give you a hundred bucks for that POS.

..and Fred W., if someone would give me what I paid for it, I would gladly sell it to them. Yes, bar backs & grip puppies were needed and I expected that. But the wires on the rear bulbs are SOOO short, I can't get the bulbs out of the lens assy!! I kid U not. I tried all 4. Every wire I have had to work on is too short, there is barely room to slice in the accessory connectors. 7 screws to hold on the left side case !??, it only needs 3 (my 1st Honda didn't have any!!). Plus both side case upper panel tabs are 'under' the tank & rear end body work, that's just plain stupid-not to mention hazardous to removing the side panels in 1 piece.
This bike is great to ride, but a real cluster F--- to work on, no matter where I have had to work on it. The thousands of plastic pull screws are another pain, not standardize &, easily lost. I have a box full of parts (screws, bolts, brackets) off this bike that it doesn't needed.

10 minutes for the w/s retract?? Maybe on yours, it took me 6 tries x 10 to find it, took me ten to write the several posts just to find it. All the pics I saw didn't look like my bike.

As far as the YCCC module, I hit the start button and all I get is a flashing yellow light + SHIFt that blinks & tones. No start, no nothing, but everything else works. So when they fix it, they will do the ignition recall too, and with only 282 miles on it. What's next??

Why are you changing tail light bulbs at under 300 miles. I smell troll.