Anyone here with Throttlemeister experience?

[karnal]

All:

I've got two Yamaha's, a 950t and a 2011 FJR1300A. Both had Throttlemeister's installed by the previous owners. On the 950t, when the throttlemeister is fully applied, the throttle sticks into proper place and will move with pressure in either direction (i.e. more throttle or less depending on what I feel is needed.) On the FJR, it's not sticking that well - if I don't leave any pressure on the throttle, it'll gradually move back to idle over time and bumps.

Since I've not had to install these devices, I don't know a whole lot about how they work. I'm making an assumption that it's a simple fix - but is it possible to get this thing to work on the FJR as it does on the 950t? is there a simple adjustment somewhere that I'm missing? I haven't attempted to remove the existing one off of either bike yet, just need some reassurance so I'm not doing this in vain.

I emailed Throttlemeister; they stated they'd get back to me but all I've gotten since is crickets.

 

[BigDogRaven]

What I have found is that the rubber "gasket" that slides partway in to the grip (over the bar), can get pushed in and thus the "friction" part will do as you have described. Take of the throttlemiester, move the gasket out a bit and re-install. You can test is prior to fully tightening. Once you get it set, lock tight the treads a bit.

I think there are some instructions on the throttlemiester site, however, I found them confusing.

Im sure others here can explain this a bit better....but its a trial & error thing I have found.

 

[ahchiu]

Do you have the throttle tube friction end cap on? you may need to take a washer out to bring the bar end closer to the throttle tube.

 

[user 31223]

I installed mine a few weeks go, with heated gips.

The trick is to get the gap on the off position, which is adjusted by pulling out or pushing in the bar end, tightening it and checking it will grip when engaged only

They suggest starting with 1/16th gap.

If the po followed the instruction the bolt on the Bar end is thread locked, so ight be a little tougher to undo.

My only issue so far is that when I used the heated grips this weekend, everything expanded and the TM engaged when. Didn't want it to, so I had To make he throttle return to off. I will need to back off the TM a bit, larger gap. But not a lot.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Loosen the TM some. Move it in a little and tighten it. See how it works. If you need to be farther in or out, just readjust. After the first time it moves, you'll understand it. It's very easy to do. While you're at that, check tgw friction ring, but if its not all the way seated, it'll move soon anyway and you'll be in the same boat.

 

[majicmaker]

Try tapping on it with a soft mallet or a block of wood inward. Over time they can slowly vibrate outward.

 

[beemerdons]

kamal Bro': BigDogRaven, ahchiu, Gbjbany, HotRodZilla and majicmaker have all given you great advice. Any of those fixes will correct your Throttlemeister, I have had great luck with Throttlemeister's ever since they came out. Started using them on my BMW's decades ago, started using them on my FJR's in 2003. An excellent product!

 

[FJRBandit]

In the summer, above 80 degrees it works just as designed, but when it's cooler than 80 mine does just as you described. I just turn on the heated grips and let the little friction thingy expand, it locks right into place like it's suppose to.

But wait, all of their suggestions are better...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Its normally adjusted with thin shims inbetween the insert and the TM itself.

If you pull out one of the shims(if there's one in there) and re-install, it'll tighten up the clearance and
work properly.

Moving the insert in or out does the same thing, this just gives you a little move incremental adjustment..


About 3/4's the way down, it talks about the shimming process:

https://www.fjr1300.info/howto/throttlemeister.html

 

[roger dodger]

Townsends is right... it's all about the shims. TM is VERY sensitive to the (cranking) distance. Subtract or reduce 1 shim. A properly adjusted TM is wonderful! A poorly adjusted TM is basically useless.

Also, I did the throttle spring unwind to 'soften' the pressure on return. This allows the TM to hold the lock position better.

Lastly, lube the throttle tube, but NOT the end cap. Even rough it up a little for more friction at the end by the TM.

 

[HotRodZilla]

Did they change the way the TM installs? I don't remember my TM having shims and washers. Mine has rubber rings that expand with pressure and hold the TM in place on a "piston." I had to adjust where the TM was held in place until it engaged and disengaged correctly.

I just pulled out my instructions. From 1-3 what I found on the internet matches. Starting at #4, mine talk about the necessary gap and using the 'friction sleeve' to adjust it. Maybe newer Vs. older?? My TM part number is: AY-R1, and is a couple years old.

 

[majicmaker]

I'm thinking the same thing, Zilla. No shims on mine.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I took mine off my 2000 ZRX1100 (bought the TM new for the ZRX).

Got some adapter from TM for the FJR in 2004 (slightly different bar install).

There was definitly shims for mine (three or four maybe).

As I recall, there was also a plastic circular "do dad" that went inside the end

of the grip and the throttle tube for the actual assembly to have something to adjust against.

The shims, obviously just adjusted the unit farther in or farther out which would adjust the drag..

It was very touchy to get a good adjustment, not too loose, not too tight...

***Now, if you have some $ to burn, I've installed several "Breakaway" throttle locks:

https://www.brakeawayproducts.com/appguide.php on several bikes.

A bit of a PIA to adjust but WAY MORE easier to use and disengauge.

Push one button to lock (no turning), either push a button to release OR pull

the front brake lever to disengauge. Very, very slick, machine work absolutly

top notch.

 

[HotRodZilla]

^^^"NOT compatible with heated grips." Which is why I ended up with a TM in the first place.

 

[RadioHowie]

CRAP!! For $190, just buy a REAL CC!!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

CRAP!! For $190, just buy a REAL CC!!!

Said it wasn't cheap,(that's why I don't have one).

Works real good thou and you can put it on your next gen bike!!