Anyone install Hid replacement head lights

[Fred W]

I have a Chinese telescopic H4 HID retrofit kit. It has served me well for as long as I've had it (almost 2 years). Here's my installation saga complete with beam pattern pictures

I did have some problems with one or the other of the HID capsules not firing up at start-up occasionally, but that was resolved with my custom time delay circuit farkle, which delays the headlights from coming on for 10 seconds after the engine starts.

The beam pattern problems with the high beam are not caused by the HID retrofit. It is a function of the Yamaha headlight reflectors that is actually also present with the halogen lamps installed, but because the intensity of the HIDs is that much greater, it makes the drop off to darkness that much more noticeable.

I have played around with using a fixed low beam in one side and a telescopic one in the other, and for night time riding that is a good compromise. In the bright daylight, however, I do want to run with both bulbs in high beam. So my next modification will be to add a switch to allow me to enable and disable the right side telescoping solenoid. When disabled it will have to send it the correct signal (voltage) to hold the solenoid in the low position.

 

[DailyCommuter]

I just ordered a DDMTUNING kit. Dual kit hi/lo bulbs. Tired of not being able to see on rainy nights. I do too much night riding to not be able to see good. Hopefully have them in and up and running for my ride down to eom.

 

[buf2phx]

The kits that I referenced in my earlier post have a combined ballast and igniter. According to the website this increases reliability. Don't know that I've had mine long enough to comment on that. As far as start-up current draw, I sent an e-mail to Xenonlink and they replied that the draw is 6 A at start-up and 1.5 A continuous operating draw. I haven't broken out the DVOM to verify this claim.

Mike

 

[Fred W]

As far as start-up current draw, I sent an e-mail to Xenonlink and they replied that the draw is 6 A at start-up and 1.5 A continuous operating draw. I haven't broken out the DVOM to verify this claim.

These lights are a modern miracle!! I wonder if you installed them back wards if they'd generate electricity? :lol:

They probably need to explain how they get 35W* HID lights to run with 20 watts of input power... :blink:

*No need for an ammeter, a calculator will do. 35W @ 13V = 2.7 A (plus there are losses in the ballast circuits)

 

[Zorlac]

"They probably need to explain how they get 35W* HID lights to run with 20 watts of input power."

They're not real watts, they're "Sears watts"

Maybe it's the equivalent lumens marketing gimmick?

 

[Warchild]

As far as start-up current draw, I sent an e-mail to Xenonlink and they replied that the draw is 6 A at start-up and 1.5 A continuous operating draw. I haven't broken out the DVOM to verify this claim.

This might be believable if they are referring to the ballast *only*, and not the HID capsule in addition.

This is completely inaccurate if they are inferring that this draw is for the complete setup, though.

Interesting discussion, gents.... just how much interest is there among the newer owners to investigate HID lighting?

Enough for me to set up a killer Group Buy for them?

And not those massive, ginormous gen 1 and gen 2 HID ballasts... we would go after the latest ultra-slim ballasts, like this:

Speak up if there is interest....

Most anything is available: low-beam only, high-beam only, the Projector Low-Beam only, the Projector High-Beam only, and I'll see if he'll throw in a price for the new de facto standard in the LD community, the 4GHID lamp:

I know that this new 4GHID Lamp was used in this year's Iron Butt Rally, and user's comments were beyond glowing. This is *the* lamp we in the LD community have been waiting for.... a large enough reflector housing for an awesome beamcast, yet not so large that they eat into your MPG due to massive wind drag. Ignitor built into the lamp body, but separate from the ballast so the lamp weight isn't excessive, like the Solteks. Plus, a separate ballast means you can mount them anywhere on the bike that is convenient.

Let me know it there is enough interest, and we'll do a GB on these right after the coming GPSuspension Group Buy is over.

 

[bmwhd]

I remain a huge fan of the telescoping H4 bixenon HID conversion kits. Mine continue to server me very well.

I will mention two points:

1) I personally like the 6k temp bulbs. You give up a (very) few lumens but gain a bunch of daytime conspiquity(sp?) in my opinion. That's worth more to me. YMMV.

2) Several of us have noticed that prolonged use of the HIDs has caused some mild discoloration/melting/damage to the plastic silver coating of the reflector housing directly above the bulb. I don't know for a fact this wasn't there prior to the HID conversion but I don't believe it was. However, it's minor and not getting any worse so I'm not to concerned about it.

 

[Fred W]

2) Several of us have noticed that prolonged use of the HIDs has caused some mild discoloration/melting/damage to the plastic silver coating of the reflector housing directly above the bulb. I don't know for a fact this wasn't there prior to the HID conversion but I don't believe it was. However, it's minor and not getting any worse so I'm not to concerned about it.

Interesting. I just went to go check and sure as heck, there is a slighty wispy grayness just over the bulbs. For comparison I looked in the headlight buckets of my other two bikes that use H4 bulbs and the Trophy seems to have a similar situation, but the Honda does not.

Has anyone that has ~20k or more miles on their bike using only standard H4 headlights ever looked in there?

 

[Grumpy]

As far as start-up current draw, I sent an e-mail to Xenonlink and they replied that the draw is 6 A at start-up and 1.5 A continuous operating draw. I haven't broken out the DVOM to verify this claim.

This might be believable if they are referring to the ballast *only*, and not the HID capsule in addition.

This is completely inaccurate if they are inferring that this draw is for the complete setup, though.

Interesting discussion, gents.... just how much interest is there among the newer owners to investigate HID lighting?

Enough for me to set up a killer Group Buy for them?

And not those massive, ginormous gen 1 and gen 2 HID ballasts... we would go after the latest ultra-slim ballasts, like this:

Speak up if there is interest....

Most anything is available: low-beam only, high-beam only, the Projector Low-Beam only, the Projector High-Beam only, and I'll see if he'll throw in a price for the new de facto standard in the LD community, the 4GHID lamp:

I know that this new 4GHID Lamp was used in this year's Iron Butt Rally, and user's comments were beyond glowing. This is *the* lamp we in the LD community have been waiting for.... a large enough reflector housing for an awesome beamcast, yet not so large that they eat into your MPG due to massive wind drag. Ignitor built into the lamp body, but separate from the ballast so the lamp weight isn't excessive, like the Solteks. Plus, a separate ballast means you can mount them anywhere on the bike that is convenient.

Let me know it there is enough interest, and we'll do a GB on these right after the coming GPSuspension Group Buy is over.

I'm some what interested, but omnly at a much lower price than what's quoted on the Phillips site. What wattages are available? Where are these luminaires manufactured? Where are the ballasts made?

 

[buf2phx]

As far as start-up current draw, I sent an e-mail to Xenonlink and they replied that the draw is 6 A at start-up and 1.5 A continuous operating draw. I haven't broken out the DVOM to verify this claim.

These lights are a modern miracle!! I wonder if you installed them back wards if they'd generate electricity? :lol:

They probably need to explain how they get 35W* HID lights to run with 20 watts of input power... :blink:

*No need for an ammeter, a calculator will do. 35W @ 13V = 2.7 A (plus there are losses in the ballast circuits)

I was not aware that 35W was the defacto standard for HID lighting. I can't find any mention of the watt rating of their product on the site. I can say that they work just fine without the need for a silly time-delay relay.

Mike

 

[ngarider]

After screwing with some Chinese crap a couple of times, both large and small ballast, and having some failures (actually blew a bulb, popped fuses for no apparent reason, and finally a dead ballast), I bought a kit from https://www.sharphid.com/ -- dealt directly with an actual English speaking guy named John Sharp. Lifetime warranty on his kit, and so far (30K miles between 2 FJR's) so good. I have the telescoping capsules.

I've got the 4300K temp bulbs, and love 'em. Next to 5k, there's noticeable difference. I prefer the whiter light. I do think the 5k temp is more noticeable to other traffic because it's so blue. Also a callout to the performance judges.

On the vendor, I bought my kit almost 2 years ago to the day. He's still in business, so that's a good sign.

The only issue I have is very rare, and related to 'low' startup voltage. If the bike has been sitting for a while, or, if I've been screwing with the electronics without battery-tendering it when I'm done, one side won't fire. I always, always get one side, but maybe 1/50 startups I get only one side.

A key cycle always fixes it.

Hiding the ballasts/ignitors is a trick. You're on your own. I recommend pulling the nose. I saw one install where the boxes were put under the tank, on the heat shield. YMMV.

I keep a normal H4 bulb stowed on the bike and very accessible, and I know how to unplug the HID capsule and plug in the stock bulb with my eyes closed. No, really... I practiced it 4 times on this Gen2 bike after install, and every time I prep for a trip, I do it again. I'm planning for a total HID failure in the middle of the night, in the rain, probably in the middle of the apocalypse. ;-) Hopefully this ensures I never have one.

 

[Fred W]

I was not aware that 35W was the defacto standard for HID lighting. I can't find any mention of the watt rating of their product on the site. I can say that they work just fine without the need for a silly time-delay relay.Mike

Well, now you are aware. 35W IS the defacto standard. Unless you have the uprated 50 Watters.

And talk to me more about "silly delays" after you've run them for a while longer. (see prior post)

If you don't need a delay that's great. I didn't see a need for a while either. I later decided having one of the headlights (even infrequently) not fire up, unbeknown to me, was contrary to my primary intended purpose of upgrading to HIDs, increased conspicuousness.

The only issue I have is very rare, and related to 'low' startup voltage. If the bike has been sitting for a while, or, if I've been screwing with the electronics without battery-tendering it when I'm done, one side won't fire. I always, always get one side, but maybe 1/50 startups I get only one side.
A key cycle always fixes it.

Yup, that is the exact situation many (all?) of us who have upgraded our headlights to HID lights using any of the commonly available upgrade kits have encountered. The reason it happens is that the FJR was designed to delay turning on the headlights until immediately after the engine has been started. They did this to keep the load on our tiny batteries within spec while cranking the starter motor.

If the bike has been sitting for a while, the battery voltage will be drawn down too much by cranking the starter so when the HID headlights try to fire-up there isn't enough voltage. The HID upgrade kits all have built in relay boxes that get only the headlight "enable" signal from the original bike wiring via one of the two unplugged headlight connectors. The actual power for the ballasts (which feed the ignitors and luminaires) comes directly from the vehicle battery via some added heavy gauge (for minimum resistance), separately fused wires.

The simple solution is to delay the bike's "headlights on" signal coming from the ECU. That's what the "silly" 10 second relay delay circuit I made does.

 

[ahchiu]

I would be intrested, it depends on the price.

 

[bramfrank]

The 'failure to start up' issue is directly related to the cheap ballasts that you get with most of these kits

I mentioned previously that my lights come on with the key (and someone - I'm not bothering to check who - made some comment that everyone's lights do that. But they don't. Most, as mentioned come on only after cranking - and STILL they don't light up.

Mine switch on with the key and run through the cranking and they never fail to fire.

That's because Hella uses properly designed and executed German ballasts - they are not as voltage sensitive as the cheapie Chinese units are.

As to running my Mincro DE Xenons daytime - IT'S DAYTIME. No one should be blinded even if you aimed the darned thigs right tta their heads. But, as it happens, mine are aimed straight ahead with downtilt, with the right light biased to the right for additional shoulder illumination.

That, coupled to my conventional Halogen headlights with a modulator flashing away makes me very conspicuous - hence my highs are on during daylight hours, something else that was commented on.

The good news is that people do not turn left across my path. People do not pull out and try to pass while I am passing them (wit apoligies to Michelle Syverson), and often enough they pull to the right to let me pass because theya ctually notice I'm there are thnk that I might be a cop. But even more light would be nice to have.

Works for me.

 

[user 213]

Recently one of my igniters is not firing the light at ambient temps over 80F. I need to contact the vendor and see if they will do something. Also need to check if I'm still in warranty.

I'm definitely interested to hear how this turns out. Thanks.

I checked my receipt and I'm a bit over two years on these lights, and well out of the one year warranty. The vendor isn't all that helpful and suggests I replace the ballast for $49.95, (or two for $90!). At the time I bought these, they were mid price range units for $199 and no one in that price range or below was offering lifetime warranty. The vendor is also located in the neighboring state, so up front customer service and all contact has been very prompt.

At this point, I may opt to replace one side with one of the lifetime warranty single hi/low kits offered by DDM or SharpHID since it's only a little more $$. Might even order a new two light kit and sell the kit I have as a single.

Worth pointing out is that my issue has always been very temp dependent, but I've never tried FredW's techique of cycling the ignition, so will do that and see if it fires off on the second try. That would still indicate some problem, but perhaps not as critical as originally thought.

 

[Ignacio]

Let me know it there is enough interest, and we'll do a GB on these....

I'm interested. Having now probably 70,000+ miles on the Chinese cheapies including a set of bulbs in '07.....plus a single bulb failure a couple weeks ago that probably means a fourth soon....it's probably time to look at redoing the low beams.

Thanks!

 

[1FJR]

I would be interested based on price. Might even get some for other vehicles.

 

[Toecutter]

I would be interested based on price. Might even get some for other vehicles.

 

[Maura]

Let me know it there is enough interest, and we'll do a GB on these....

I'm interested. Having now probably 70,000+ miles on the Chinese cheapies including a set of bulbs in '07.....plus a single bulb failure a couple weeks ago that probably means a fourth soon....it's probably time to look at redoing the low beams.

Thanks!

After Hutsal humiliated my PIAA 910s with his 6, count 'em, 6 HIDs, I am in.

 

[Fred W]

Worth pointing out is that my issue has always been very temp dependent, but I've never tried FredW's techique of cycling the ignition, so will do that and see if it fires off on the second try. That would still indicate some problem, but perhaps not as critical as originally thought.

You know that you can't actually cycle the ignition switch, right?

What you really want to do is to cycle the headlight signal from the ECU after the bike is already running.