Anyone w/pic's Details to Bypass Bad Ignition Switch

[dcarver]

Ya know, I had to replace my ignition switch in Feb because I zip-tied some wires during my GPS install that eventually pulled the hot wire loose inside the switch. I thought about posting these kind of details at the time after playing with the old/broken assembly, but the former cop in me thought "nah, why would I want to go and post a how-to on how to steal our bikes?" Sure, most people who really want to probably already know how, but it would be like that news reporter who actually ran a news story about how easy it was to unlock/steal Toyota Corolla's in the 90's, then there was a nationwide epidemic spike in their thefts. Nothing quite so dramatic here, but still...
Now... :blink:

Oh well...

RB - what happened to yours is same as mine. I'm pretty sure your zip tying had nothing to do with the failure. And since I routinely lock the bars, use a rotor lock, and cover the bike, I'd rather have the info out there for stranded pilots than not. The key is still required for operation.

 

[rayban]

Ya know, I had to replace my ignition switch in Feb because I zip-tied some wires during my GPS install that eventually pulled the hot wire loose inside the switch. I thought about posting these kind of details at the time after playing with the old/broken assembly, but the former cop in me thought "nah, why would I want to go and post a how-to on how to steal our bikes?" Sure, most people who really want to probably already know how, but it would be like that news reporter who actually ran a news story about how easy it was to unlock/steal Toyota Corolla's in the 90's, then there was a nationwide epidemic spike in their thefts. Nothing quite so dramatic here, but still...
Now... :blink:

Oh well...

RB - what happened to yours is same as mine. I'm pretty sure your zip tying had nothing to do with the failure. And since I routinely lock the bars, use a rotor lock, and cover the bike, I'd rather have the info out there for stranded pilots than not. The key is still required for operation.

Not true. I tested it on the old ignition set. I'm not going to say anything further. It *is* possible to use this info in a bad way to hotwire a bike, but I understand your position. A key is only required if due diligence is used to lock the bars everytime.

 

[dcarver]

Ya know, I had to replace my ignition switch in Feb because I zip-tied some wires during my GPS install that eventually pulled the hot wire loose inside the switch. I thought about posting these kind of details at the time after playing with the old/broken assembly, but the former cop in me thought "nah, why would I want to go and post a how-to on how to steal our bikes?" Sure, most people who really want to probably already know how, but it would be like that news reporter who actually ran a news story about how easy it was to unlock/steal Toyota Corolla's in the 90's, then there was a nationwide epidemic spike in their thefts. Nothing quite so dramatic here, but still...
Now... :blink:

Oh well...

RB - what happened to yours is same as mine. I'm pretty sure your zip tying had nothing to do with the failure. And since I routinely lock the bars, use a rotor lock, and cover the bike, I'd rather have the info out there for stranded pilots than not. The key is still required for operation.

Not true. I tested it on the old ignition set. I'm not going to say anything further. It *is* possible to use this info in a bad way to hotwire a bike, but I understand your position. A key is only required if due diligence is used to lock the bars everytime.

I only scabbed the big wires together. If you connect all 4, the switch is completly bypassed, no key required. If you do only the big wires, the current carrying wires, and leave the interlock wires intact, then a key is still needed. At least that's what happened on mine!

 

[gtman]

Ya know it seems like I read something about that here just recently. Had to do with connecting to two large wires to each other and the same with the two smaller wires.
Damn! I was going to add that to my personal bin-o-facts.

Oh well, time to hit the wiring schematic.

:jester:

I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this topic. This info saved my but just recently. I was returning from a trip out west. After logging 5,000 miles and with 830 left to reach Timberlake, NC I was stranded in Willow Springs, MO on Thursday night. We had just left a McDonalds and rode 10 miles to a motel. I needed to move my bike but the key would not even turn. We tried WD40 overnight and tapping on the cylinder while trying to turn the key, NO GOOD! The dealer in West Plains said he could get the part overnighted for $100 but the shop was closed on Saturday. It would be Monday before they could touch it. Luckily I had brought my laptop and this thread was pinned at the top.

My brother-in-law went to the local O'reilly auto parts store. He returned with some 14 gauge wire, wire stripper/crimper, cutters, two 20 amp switches, ty-wraps, female spade terminals and vampire splices. We cut 4 short lengths of wire and put female spade terminals on one end of each. Without having to cut the wires going to the ignition switch we inserted each of the 4 ignition wires into a vampire splice along with one of the wires we cut and squeezed the splice closed. These things just slice through the insulation to make contact with the wire. We checked our switches to be sure which position was open before connecting the brown & red to one and the smaller blue wires to the other. I put electrical tape around the switches and ty-wrapped one in front of each riser to the lines that go up to the handle bars. The nice thing about these splices is we never had to work with the exposed end of the hot wire, minimizing the risk of blowing the fuse.

I first turned on the switch with blue wires followed by the one with the red and brown. The gauges went through their power up sequence and I hit the start switch. She fired right up. I used the kill switch to turn it off followed by the 2 switches in reverse order. Not knowing the quality of the switches or what current they actually carried I didn't want to risk pitting the contacts. I rode it all the way home without missing a beat. Having a good lock was a plus too for the one overnight stay.

 

[Wicked Webby]

Ya know it seems like I read something about that here just recently. Had to do with connecting to two large wires to each other and the same with the two smaller wires.
Damn! I was going to add that to my personal bin-o-facts.

Oh well, time to hit the wiring schematic.

:jester:

I would like to thank everyone who has contributed to this topic. This info saved my but just recently. I was returning from a trip out west. After logging 5,000 miles and with 830 left to reach Timberlake, NC I was stranded in Willow Springs, MO on Thursday night. We had just left a McDonalds and rode 10 miles to a motel. I needed to move my bike but the key would not even turn. We tried WD40 overnight and tapping on the cylinder while trying to turn the key, NO GOOD! The dealer in West Plains said he could get the part overnighted for $100 but the shop was closed on Saturday. It would be Monday before they could touch it. Luckily I had brought my laptop and this thread was pinned at the top.

My brother-in-law went to the local O'reilly auto parts store. He returned with some 14 gauge wire, wire stripper/crimper, cutters, two 20 amp switches, ty-wraps, female spade terminals and vampire splices. We cut 4 short lengths of wire and put female spade terminals on one end of each. Without having to cut the wires going to the ignition switch we inserted each of the 4 ignition wires into a vampire splice along with one of the wires we cut and squeezed the splice closed. These things just slice through the insulation to make contact with the wire. We checked our switches to be sure which position was open before connecting the brown & red to one and the smaller blue wires to the other. I put electrical tape around the switches and ty-wrapped one in front of each riser to the lines that go up to the handle bars. The nice thing about these splices is we never had to work with the exposed end of the hot wire, minimizing the risk of blowing the fuse.

I first turned on the switch with blue wires followed by the one with the red and brown. The gauges went through their power up sequence and I hit the start switch. She fired right up. I used the kill switch to turn it off followed by the 2 switches in reverse order. Not knowing the quality of the switches or what current they actually carried I didn't want to risk pitting the contacts. I rode it all the way home without missing a beat. Having a good lock was a plus too for the one overnight stay.

Gtman,

Good idea about using the vampire splices.

WW

 

[Zorlac]

"I needed to move my bike but the key would not even turn. We tried WD40 overnight and tapping on the cylinder while trying to turn the key, NO GOOD!"

Good thing you didn't go to the lock position!

 

[Canadian FJR]

Old thread but the last scenario got me thinking. If the key won't turn - connect the Red/Brown could you then connect the two Blue? Would this bypass the ignition completely?

Answered in post 24

Canadian FJR