My easy destination after DC was Front Royal, VA, the beginning of Skyline Drive and the Shenandoah National Park. I understand the scenery there is pretty spectacular. My view of it was mostly as seen below, at least for the first forty or fifty miles. The fog eventually lifted, but the speed limit of 35 was kind of slow for an FJR. I may have exceeded it some. The bumper stickers call it “America’s Favorite Drive,” not “America’s Favorite Ride.” Still, the part I could
see was good.
This wasn't bad, considering how foggy it got later.
Skyline Drive becomes the Blue Ridge Parkway, where at least the limit jumps to 45. I found enforcement to be light (maybe I was just lucky) and again, probably exceeded even that once or twice. I got off for gas in Roanoke but back on again to find a campground that didn’t look too far on the map. It was, though—I barely made it to Rocky Knoll campground and got the tent up before pitch dark set in. I loved the place names—made me know for sure I was in the South. Something “Knoll,” something “Knob,” Hollows, Wallows, Runs, Notches, and Gaps. Seems more colorful than the names of places where I’ve lived. I had other clues I was in the South too.
Never ran across this before, so it
must be a Southern thang. And speaking of that . . .
Here's something else I never saw before either. A little out of sequence, found in a Tennessee hardware store, but guaranteed never to be seen in California. Or Canada.
Middle School? Really?
Anyway, continuing down the BRP the next day, which began as a gorgeous day, it began to cloud up. A lot. I pulled over as it became obvious I was heading into a storm and got my rain gear on. The extra warmth was welcome too. In a few miles I came to the Blue Ridge Music Center, an NPS facility along the parkway, and saw a sign: “Music Today.” I almost rode by, but went back to find what was a lot like a normal visitor center, but devoted to the music of the area, with an attached open performance area where over a dozen musicians were sitting around playing great mountain music on guitars, fiddles, banjos, and mandolins. I guess they were just local folks who enjoyed coming in and playing together—it was certainly no kind of a formal staged concert, but the music was terrific. There were people watching too, but probably fewer than the number of musicians playing.
https://www.blueridgemusiccenter.org/
I watched for a while, from practically inside their circle. The players were almost as interested in my ride, especially when they found out I’d come so far, as I was in the music, and asked me all about it. The rain started just as I was about to leave, and I got lots of good wishes for my safety and advice to be careful and stay dry. That was tough, since it was now raining hard. That wasn’t so bad—my gear proved to be as waterproof as I could have hoped, but as I climbed again, the visibility went straight into the crapper. I was moving maybe 25, barely seeing a couple of lines ahead in the road, until I came up on a camper that was doing under 20 with its lights flashing. I decided 20 was fine so I followed him for several miles. There really was no choice; no place to stop except a couple of turnouts, where I’d be
standing in the rain instead of riding in it.
I was more than glad to take the first exit that came along, Laurel Springs NC, and my Parkway map showed much-needed gas could be had a couple miles east. I got the gas first and then turned back to the Stations Inn Motorcycle Resort, which sounds maybe a little more grand than it looked. A couple Harleys stood out front in the rain, and the riders were on the porch, drinking beer. Turned out they’d already checked in, though it was before 3:00, so I decided they were maybe OK after all. After exchanging greetings, I joined them for lunch, and decided to stay there too, so I got in on the beer as well. Turned out they were Steve and Dwight, childhood buds from Black Mountain, NC, just off the BRP. Once a year Dwight rides south and Steve rides north to ride the Parkway together. After a while, and another beer or two, they went up to their rooms and returned with a pair of guitars! The rest of the evening was another Blue Ridge music festival, with everybody in the joint (maybe 8 of us) trying to sing along if we knew the words. Which we didn’t, mostly. These were a couple of damn good guys, ol’ Steve and Dwight, and to confound the first impression I might have given, Dwight is a PhD Georgetown graduate in aeronautical engineering—a blooming rocket scientist! Works for a subsidiary of Aerojet General and has worked at their Sacramento facility where rocket engines are made and tested.
Among the chorus on the porch were the self-proclaimed great-grandnephew or something of Doc Holliday of OK Corral fame (who was also named “Doc” Holliday), and a young woman claiming kinship with the man—I think she said his name was Tom Dooney—who inspired the song “Hang Down Your Head Tom Dooley.” Guess that scans better. I think I believed them both.
Great parking for a rainy day
Steve and Dwight. Or Dwight and Steve. I'm not sure who gets top billing.
The party continued into the wee hours.
Meet Doc Holliday. Not a real doctor.
I’ll tell you, it wouldn’t hurt to plan to end a day on the Blue Ridge Parkway at this joint if you ever have the chance. It really is designed for the motorcycle set. Covered parking in front of your room, good food, low cost, friendly folks, and cheap enough to satisfy even—me. I’m giving it three thumbs up. And BTW, at the urging of my new friends, I breakfasted on biscuits and gravy and a nice bowl of grits! They were, um . . .
filling. No picture of the grits. Just picture a bowl of pure white . . . sand.