At Wits end.. This close to selling New 2009 AE

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The only clunk I get is when selecting first from neutral, quite a wallop. When it's time to go,crank the grip and she's away no problem or noise.

Are you sitting with first selected or are you in neutral,selecting first, then taking off all in one action?

 
Maybe the word "Clunk" is not appropriate here. It's not actually a Clunk noise. It's the shoulder separating "Jolt" that just feels like a Clunk! :lol:

The unexpected Jolt that makes you wet your pants every once in a while. :unsure:

 
Those 09 AEs were real junk, just bring it by my place and I'll try to give ya a couple a bucks for it. :lol: I actually always get the clunk from neutral to first and occasionally on a cold take off. I thought about doing the bleed and soak as previously mentioned and will get around to it eventually but it doesn't keep me from ridding. I'm not much fro dealers unless absolutely necessary but I've used Action Yamaha in Edison NJ and have no complaints. I decided to use them when their tech was able to help me over the phone with what I thought was a problem early on when I first got the bike and the dealer where I bought it blew me off and another dealer close by was unable to help either. Depending where you are in NJ I would give them a try or at least a call. YMMV. ;)

 
Interesting. I normally come to a stop downshifiting to 2nd. Once stopped, I shift to 1st and sit in gear. I'll try going into neutral and back into 1st as a test. I don't wish to do this every time I stop. I've read about the clutch soak and the hydraulic bleeds. I've had the 600 oil change done at the dealer with non-synthetic oil.. I'm planning to do another oil change. Do you guy think synthetic would help?

About the clutch soak and hydraulic bleed, do you guys trust the dealers to do this correctly? I've read the do it yourself threads on the soak and they look pretty involved. I was wondering, if the clutch plates are covered in oil when riding, what does a soak do? The plates dont absorb the oil, or do they? Dan

 
Those 09 AEs were real junk, just bring it by my place and I'll try to give ya a couple a bucks for it. :lol: I actually always get the clunk from neutral to first and occasionally on a cold take off. I thought about doing the bleed and soak as previously mentioned and will get around to it eventually but it doesn't keep me from ridding. I'm not much fro dealers unless absolutely necessary but I've used Action Yamaha in Edison NJ and have no complaints. I decided to use them when their tech was able to help me over the phone with what I thought was a problem early on when I first got the bike and the dealer where I bought it blew me off and another dealer close by was unable to help either. Depending where you are in NJ I would give them a try or at least a call. YMMV. ;)

Thanks > I'll definitely call them. Right now the bike is in Miami.. Bought it from a Tampa dealer.. Plan to ride it up to NJ next month stopping at Biktoberfest.. If I can't get past this, the bike is yours. Dan :)

 
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My opinion is different from many who have replied (nothing new there
laugh.gif
).

There should be no clunk on moving from rest, it should be smooooth.

My '06 was smooth, never clunked. After its clutch soak.

Two reasons I can give you for a clunk at take-off, one is a sticking clutch (soaking will fix), the other is air in the hydraulic fluid, a bleed will fix.

My '10 doesn't clunk. Whether a gentle move-off in heavy traffic, or at a traffic-light grande prix.

So, get the clutch bled, if that doesn't help, get the clutch soaked. (Either order will do, but my bet is on the bleeding.)
+1 here. My 06 has done that a couple of times (ONLY), when for some reason I stopped in a higher gear: 3rd, 4th, or 5th, and then click, click, clicked to 1rst. Try this with your 09: Reduce the idle closer to 1000 RPM, DO proper (engine braking) downshifts, and then take off 'FJR Smooth' (no clunk into gear, because it is already there). If that does not work, shift into neutral as soon as you are stopped, and then shift into first just before departing the stopped position (it SHOULD clunk a bit when shifting in). If it does not take off 'skooter smooth' then, you need: clutch plate soak, DIFFERENT motor oil, and/or bleed & replace clutch fluid with NEW dot 4 . . . Good luck

Emphasis: When slowing to stop: DOWNSHIFT INTO FIRST WHILE STILL ROLLING SO THE GEAR CAN FULLY ENGAGE. < I'll bet you 38 cents you are not doing this.
+ another 1 ... I have an 06, put a little over 112,000 kms on it, and I found it a little bit "grabby" at first - until I learned how to properly use the YCCS. Once the 'pilot error' was sorted out, it was smooth as silk. It isn't a scooter, but then again, it doesn't have a CVT tranny and I don't think there's a scooter made with 140+ ponies in the barn. :yahoo:

Never have a thunk/clunk/whatever as the clutch engaged from a stop. I agree with the fellas (above) - clunk/thunk/etc is NOT normal behaviour for this machine, and would indicate air in the system (bleed to fix) or a sticky clutch plate (soak to fix).

Griff

 
Interesting. I normally come to a stop downshifiting to 2nd. Once stopped, I shift to 1st and sit in gear. I'll try going into neutral and back into 1st as a test. I don't wish to do this every time I stop. I've read about the clutch soak and the hydraulic bleeds. I've had the 600 oil change done at the dealer with non-synthetic oil.. I'm planning to do another oil change. Do you guy think synthetic would help?

About the clutch soak and hydraulic bleed, do you guys trust the dealers to do this correctly? I've read the do it yourself threads on the soak and they look pretty involved. I was wondering, if the clutch plates are covered in oil when riding, what does a soak do? The plates dont absorb the oil, or do they? Dan
Let me update my post: Do not stop in: 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th and then click to 1st while NOT MOVING. The simplest, and most reliable way to get "skooter starts" is to downshift to first BEFORE you stop. You do not have to do this while going very fast, just enough to feel some 'engine braking'. If you do this, the transmission will be fully engaged in first gear every time, and you will do your "skooter starts". If you must stop in 2nd, it is safest to shift to neutral (you may have to use a wee bit of throttle just to do this), and then shift back into 1st. This is mostly just the physics of the way motorcycle transmissions work and not any flaw in your bike. I think there is nothing wrong with your bike except, like all FJRs before 2010, the throttle resistance is too stiff, and the throttle is too abrupt from a stopped position for many riders. This can be rectified by experience or by installing a G2 throttle tube (you can learn more about G2 throttle here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=14983&pid=238397&st=40entry238397 . You may also want to search the forum regarding unwinding the main throttle spring 1 turn. I did this on my 2006, and it provides a safe, reliable, but lighter throttle. Check first, the 'heavy' throttle turning resistance may not be an issue on a 2009 model.

 
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The only time you should get any "clunk" is going from neutral into 1st. Once it "clunks", you can throttle up and go. If you are shifting into 1st and throttling up all at the same time, you will still get a clunk, only alot worse. I can't see why you would want to do that.

My AE goes smoothly, hot, cold or in between on starting off from a stop. If you are not getting a satisfactory answer at one dealer, take it to another and make a big stink if necessary. Remember, the squeaky wheel gets the grease.

 
My AE will do the same thing. I notice it especially if I am coming to a stop and I am just about to the point where I put my foot down, and the light changes to green and catches me a little off guard. The clunk in mine is a combination of the driveline slack being taken up from the clutch being wacked. Just clumsy driving on my part. Pulling away from a light I usually load the trans a slight bit for a smooth takeoff.

 
Guys, he isn't talking about an audible clunk (like the one neutral to first), more of a jolt or thud when transmission engages from what I understand.

If under warranty, I'd definitely go get this written up. Hard to tell by your description for certain, but I highly suspect there is a problem. Mine starts engaging/grabbing/going the same whether you shift in first stopped or shift before coming to a stop. So that is odd.

Obviously a scotter would be engaged from the get go. As you know you have to twist through 1800 rpm or so before your clutch is going to activate.

There is also some technique involved as many have mentioned. Really to get a very fast start you have to rev right to clutch engagement level and then be smooth (doesn't have to be slow) as the clutch engages, then twist the throttle all the way open. You will accelerate nicely with perfect shifts (also you have to let off the throttle just a hint for subsequent shifts before fully opening the throttle again).

So sure there is a technique involved and you didn't buy a scooter. But I suspect something isn't quite right.

 
Hmmm. I just did a few hundred miles to do some testing and I didn't even notice the need for the finesse I described above. I put on the throttle and it took care of business. Interesting, I wonder what has changed? I took some free play out of throttle and bled the clutch hydraulics last month--all I can think of. Hmmm. I am 99% certain there is something going on with your model. Also my clutch engages at 1600. How is your throttle freeplay and idle? These two things are the source of several members' first gear angst.

 
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I wish there was a way to compare other AE's to see if mine is normal. Dealer mechanics can't help since they have never seen one let alone work on one. Gonna call the one in Edison, NJ. Dan

 
I wish there was a way to compare other AE's to see if mine is normal. Dealer mechanics can't help since they have never seen one let alone work on one. Gonna call the one in Edison, NJ. Dan
Come to the Tech Day in Owosso, MI on October 6th (Saturday) and you can compare your AE to my '06 AE. If you want to ride down to EOM I will be there also. I'm staying the hell away from New Jersey.

 
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Man I was in South Jersey Sunday after North Maryland RTE. Yes we should get a few of them together! I could meet in Philly perhaps Sat or Sun. If you're free I'll check commitments.

 
Fastpappy are you available this weekend? Philly is five hour ride for me, so that's the farthest I'm gonna go this weekend (need a break). Does Saturday or Sunday work better? Could meet at 1pm at Pat's King of Steaks. No ballgame this weekend so traffic would be manageable, although no parking. Or even later in the day or maybe a little farther north. Haven't heard back but hopefully we can work something out.

 
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Okay so his bike is in Miami, so stand down!

Post 35 and perhaps this whole thread confusing me. Can do it when your're avail.
Sorry about the confusion Mountain.When I posted #35 I should have quoted post #33 from fastpappy.

Tell you what,if there is anyone with an AE in the Miami FLL area, I'd love to meet up and compare clunks before I commit to the drive north.. Dan

 
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Carp, I'm 30 minutes north of FLL. I can meet you and we can get this done. Going to EOM from the 18th to the 25th. Other than that, I'm good! :)

 
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