Audiotex Cruise Servo Replacement

[Mogan]

Greeting all,

At the suggestion of a prior post, I've diagnosed that the likely culprit of a broken cruise control is a failed servo. And, thanks again to this board I found Murphs kits and secured a replacement servo.

I'm in the middle of the install and am now recalling the many steps I did not enjoy about the original installation! Not easy. I'm now ready to hookup the new servo cable and am not sure how to get the old cable out of the bead-type connector and insert/secure the new one. The connector is pretty hefty, so just prying it open isn't easy and it's in an awkward location and it is hard to play with it.

Suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Mogan]

And, sorry for the misspelled thread title. It's an Audiovox. For some bloody reason my spell checker likes it the other way ;-)

 

[bergmen]

IIRC you can carefully use a medium to large pair of wire cutters (diagonal cutters) to pry the bead connector open just a bit. It shouldn't take much to free the cable. Once you insert the new one you can squeeze it closed with a pair of pliers.

Dan

 

[mcatrophy]

If you're talking about the bit that goes between the screw on the throttle tab and the chain

(Click on image for larger view)



then there is a split behind the ball (visible in the 2nd picture). A screwdriver should be able to prise this apart enough to slip the ball out, but have the tissues nearby to mop up the blood.

[Edited to add the second picture]

 

[Mogan]

Yeah, my issue was with the bead connector. I ended up trying to pry it open with a diagonal wire cutter. Unfortunately, the bead broke and I lost one link in the chain. I successfully attached in using the next link. The chain has almost no slack at this point. Hopefully it will operate ok. Otherwise I'll have to take the fuel rail off and install a whole new chain assembly. A major pain I hope to avoid. Yuck!

 

[wfooshee]

I don't see why you'd have to do all that. The "almost no slack" is actually the correct adjustment. The bead chain should BARELY go slack when the cruise releases and the throttle closes.

If it doesn't go slack, then simply move the cable housing coming from the servo a tad closer to the throttle tang. Wherever it's clamped or retained, just slide it a couple tenths of an inch. That by itself will add slack by putting the at-rest position closer to the tang.

 

[dcarver]

wfooshee nailed it. I did like the blood comment too!

 

[mcatrophy]

... I did like the blood comment too!

I speak from long (and not infrequent) experience

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