Audiovox CC chain connector question

[mavrik]

Hey everyone...i have done my research and dont know if i missed it or whatever...but a little help would be great. I just install at CC on my bike and i see it state nowhere whether the connector that is on the chain, that is bolted to the tang that was drilled....is this bolt tightened enought to hold the chain to throttle connector stationary or should it be loose enough that it can roll back and forth?

thanks in advance!

 

[CAJW]

IIRC, the bolt is tightened up against the tang with no play, just keep the chain/tang in line with the direction of pull. Here's a thread on bolt clearance to be aware of. https://www.fjrforum.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=128576

 

[wfooshee]

Tighten it. It should not be free to rotate around the bolt.

 

[mcatrophy]

Pictures of my bolt arrangement.

(Click on image for larger view)

The bolt with its nuts . . . . . . . . . In place on the tang



The tang is trapped between the head and the first nut, the chain connector goes between the first and second nut, the second nut is screwed down towards the connector, but not gripping it tightly. The third nut is tightened onto the second nut to stop it from rotating on the thread of the bolt. That way the bolt is tight on the tang, but the connector can rotate on the bolt to stay in line with the chain.

Watch for clearance between bolt head and the throttle cable, mine rubbed, so I had to file the head a little.

 

[mavrik]

thanks to both for the replies....but this i what i mean, both are saying something different..am i suppose to have it locked in place or loose...my setup came with a lock nut so i don't have to use the double nut...

 

[Fred W]

I did it the way mcatrophy did. I tightened the 1st nut to hold the bolt stationary, then used a nylock nut threraded on loosely so the eyelet at the end of the chain can rotate around. That way the chain is always pulling on it in-line to the bolt. Seems to make the most sense to me.

But, there is no right or wrong here. We are adapting a CC designed for cars onto a motorcycle.

FWIW, after several years of being on the bike and getting very little use, I noticed one day last year that the CC wasn't working anymore, so I removed it. I never really liked it all that much and did not want to be bothered to troubleshoot it.

Anyone that wants it for parts or to fix can have it for the cost of shipping. (Edit - Taken by SLK50)

 

[mcatrophy]

If the chain connector is tight to the tang, then as the tang rotates with the throttle, the angle between the chain and the connector will change (up to about 90 degrees total movement). This will tend to bend the coupler and potentially loosen the nut holding it, and could even bend the coupler enough to un-couple.

If you have a single locknut (presumeably a Nylok), I would suggest doing the nut up until there is little play but enough for the coupler to move relative to the tang. This puts least stress on everything, allows the bolt to rotate in the tang and the coupler to rotate on the bolt.

But personnally I wouldn't like to rely on a single locknut in a critical area that can't be checked on a frequent basis, and that might move enough to snag on the throttle cable.

 

[Fred W]

I had one regular nut tightened on the tang. The nylock nut was just the nut to retain the slightly loose chain coupler on the fixed bolt. Never moved a bit in 4-5 years until I removed it. YMMV

 

[SLK50]

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Fred W" data-cid="1143869" data-time="1398792356"><p>

I did it the way mcatrophy did. I tightened the 1st nut to hold the bolt stationary, then used a nylock nut threraded on loosely so the eyelet at the end of the chain can rotate around. That way the chain is always pulling on it in-line to the bolt. Seems to make the most sense to me.<br />

<br />

But, there is no right or wrong here. We are adapting a CC designed for cars onto a motorcycle. <br />

<br />

FWIW, after several years of being on the bike and getting very little use, I noticed one day last year that the CC wasn't working anymore, so I removed it. I never really liked it all that much and did not want to be bothered to troubleshoot it.<br />

<br />

Anyone that wants it for parts or to fix can have it for the cost of shipping.</p></blockquote>

Fred,

I'm interested in your AVCC if its still available.

I could use it to fix a few broken parts of mine.

PM your info with shipping costs to 16601.

Thanks much.

 

[ULEWZ]

I did it the way mcatrophy did. I tightened the 1st nut to hold the bolt stationary, then used a nylock nut threraded on loosely so the eyelet at the end of the chain can rotate around.

This is the bestest way. The chain needs to be free to rotate so the pull is uniform.

 

[wfooshee]

The CC will not pull the throttle anywhere near its full range of motion. If you don't believe it, just tap the brake and see how little the throttle moves as it releases. Or grab throttle while the CC is working and see how much more there is. Even if it's resuming.

I'm guessing here, but I would be very surprised to find that the CC would ever pull the throttle more than a quarter open. So free range of motion on that tang is less important than having Beemerdon's phone number on hand.

 

[mcatrophy]

The CC will not pull the throttle anywhere near its full range of motion. If you don't believe it, just tap the brake and see how little the throttle moves as it releases. Or grab throttle while the CC is working and see how much more there is. Even if it's resuming.
I'm guessing here, but I would be very surprised to find that the CC would ever pull the throttle more than a quarter open. So free range of motion on that tang is less important than having Beemerdon's phone number on hand.

Probably true, and not saying your method is wrong

, but I still prefer my way

.

 

[mavrik]

thanks for all the info guys....Fred, we need to meet up soon!

 

[ionbeam]

I guess I was the Maverick in the bead chain install. I used a cotter pin to do the deed. I used the 'eye' of the cotter pin to capture the bead, pushed the tines through the drilled hole and bent the tines out and up over the throttle stop so they wouldn't get caught up. Almost 100k miles with no problems.

 

[mavrik]

That is some good info there, thank you.

Another question guys, I try to test the cruise control with the bike on it's center stand and see if it will hold at idle or I put it in second gear and see if it will hold a speed. Is this not a good way to test if it's working? All I get is the RPMs go up and down, and up and down, and then the cruise just shuts off

 

[ionbeam]

...Another question guys, I try to test the cruise control with the bike on it's center stand and see if it will hold at idle or I put it in second gear and see if it will hold a speed. Is this not a good way to test if it's working? ...

No, no, no, no.

The cruise controller will see an abnormal command vs response on the unloaded rear tire and will not set speed.

 

[mavrik]

thank you sir....hope we can get to meet up this year....i have a excellent friend that i ride with that lives in the same town as you...