Audiovox CCS-100 Wiring Questions

[stose85]

Hello everyone, I've decided to take the plunge and install the Audiovox CCS-100 on my Gen II FJR. After 6 or so hours and 2 broken bolts later I have the hardest part of the installation done at the throttle tang. Now I'm into the wiring portion and I'd like some advice. I'm trying to run all of my wires on the right side (as you are sitting on it) of the bike.

Here's what I'm looking at....

Purple wire is going to be connected through the factory yellow wire at the tail light harness

Red wire is going to be connected through the factory blue wire at the tail light harness (Is this a switched 12v source?)

Blue wire - Where can I run this on the right side of the bike? Would it be easier to run it off the ECM on the left side?

Orange and Gray wire - Where are some easy to locate switched sources for power?

This diagram has been the most useful after scouring every topic on this subject that I could find.

One last question, I noticed when the bead chain was all put together that it was taut but not enough to cause the throttle to open. When I tightened the mounting hardware up to secure everything I have slack in the chain (not a lot but enough that I thought it would be an issue with engagement of the cruise control). Should I move the assembly towards the front to tighten the chain and reset the hardware? I can take some pictures later today to clarify if need be.

AND ITS OFFICIAL 1 Hour In - I've never been talented enough to catch both knuckles at the same time, this must be some sort of record....

 

[Spud]

Sorry can't help with wiring, but on the chain--mine has some slack and it works perfectly--I've had it on for about 70K miles

I think you want enough to just have the chain droop a little, but not enough it could loop or grab on something.

Another point--I'll let an expert give you the real answer, but there is a certain setting for the DIP switches in addition to getting wiring right for it to all work correctly.

 

[mcatrophy]

Confirm yellow or yellow/green for the brake, blue or blue/red for switched 12v at the back.

I ran my coil connection (the CCS100 blue wire) with Yamaha's official loom route, shown in the pics below:
(Click on image for larger view)


A take-off I used at the front for switched 12v was a wire to one of the parking lights, but I don't think you have those in the US. You could run a wire forward (with the coil wire) from your rear switched 12v or you could use the glovebox power outlet or the lid catch solenoid feed.

The bead chain should not be twang-tight, nor should it be sloppy. I'd liken it to a motorcycle chain, a bit of sideways movement but not loose.



As for your record, all of my jobs, both motorcycling or household, tend to get significant lubrication from my blood. Just part of the normal process.

 

[stose85]

Mcatrophy - So you can run the red, orange, and gray wires all to the same switched source? Or should you separate them to avoid a total failure at that point of the installation?

The orange wire at the top on the right side is the coil wire correct? (where the servo blue wire is connected) Your pictures are great but its sometimes hard for me to understand the close-up photos. The arrows helped!

One other question I bought the vacuum canister from Murphs kits and from reading it appears that it has a check valve inside the unit. If I installed another check valve near the throttle body would it make any difference? Do I even need another check valve?

 

[mcatrophy]

Quickie reply - yes you can use the same 12 supply, for the coil pick-off use either the orange wire (on one of the coils) or the grey/red (on the other coil). The check valve in the Murph's reservoir is fine on its own. Off line now for a while ...

 

[stose85]

I got it all hooked up last night and so far so good on the test run. I'll be able to take it for a ride later today....

after I fix a brand new tire with a nail in it

 

[stose85]

Good news the nail came out without a hitch and the tire didn't lose any air. Having a brand new tire just saved me from a leak!

15 HOURS of labor and I have a working cruise control! Thanks guys for all the help. I would NOT want to do that again!

 

[wfooshee]

The red wire should run to the hot brake light wire. In an automotive installation they have you put the brake light wire on the hot side of the brake light switch, and the purple wire on the switched side.

The reason is that if the fuse for the brake lights is blown, the unit won't power up as a fail-safe. If you power it somewhere else and the fuse for the brake lights is blown, the unit never sees the brake lights and will not disengage when you expect it to.

Put the red wire on any wire supplied by the Signal System fuse.

Yes, the cruise control works with any 12V source on that wire, switched or not, but if it's not on the brake light hot wire you could find it not disengaging with the brakes because the brake lights have no juice and the purple wire never gets volts.

 

[stose85]

The red wire should run to the hot brake light wire. In an automotive installation they have you put the brake light wire on the hot side of the brake light switch, and the purple wire on the switched side.
The reason is that if the fuse for the brake lights is blown, the unit won't power up as a fail-safe. If you power it somewhere else and the fuse for the brake lights is blown, the unit never sees the brake lights and will not disengage when you expect it to.

Put the red wire on any wire supplied by the Signal System fuse.

Yes, the cruise control works with any 12V source on that wire, switched or not, but if it's not on the brake light hot wire you could find it not disengaging with the brakes because the brake lights have no juice and the purple wire never gets volts.

That's exactly how I wired it, glad to see it was the right choice