Audiovox Cruise help

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fjr mississippi

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Someone please help!!

I have installed an Audiovox cruise on a gen 2. The cruise works with the bike on the center stand but will not engage at highway speeds.

I have tied the vacuum to the map sensor. Is there something that I might be missing? I followed , for the most part, the instructions that are posted on this forum. Any help would be appreciated.

 
The cruise works on the centerstand, or engages and then immediately disengages? On the centerstand the cruise should immediately disengage as it senses the bike accelerating too fast.

A wild guess, but I would hook a voltmeter up to the magic purple wire. Ride down the street and see if you have 0 volts on it. Anything other than zero is no good.

 
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Someone please help!!
I have installed an Audiovox cruise on a gen 2. The cruise works with the bike on the center stand but will not engage at highway speeds.

I have tied the vacuum to the map sensor. Is there something that I might be missing? I followed , for the most part, the instructions that are posted on this forum. Any help would be appreciated.
Why don't you tell us what you hooked where ?

 
MAP sensor is not a good idea, use the capped ports that are used for throttle-body-sync.

As for engaging on the center-stand, not a good test. It might kick the throttle, but I would be surprised if it holds speed and stays engaged. There is a maximum rate of acceleration it will accept, and an unloaded wheel on the centerstand will exceed that. (That maximum rate acts as a clutch safety; if you grab the clutch with the cruise engaged, it sees the speed coast down, gives throttle, sees the motor spin up and disengages.)

Give us switch settings and connection points, and any other add-ons on the bike, like brake light kits especially.

 
I only used the single connection under the map sensor. Yes I did use a canister. Does it matter how far away the canister is from the servo? The servo is mounted under the right front fairing and the canster is under the seat. The check valve is under the seat as well. If I use all four ports that are used for synch do I need to put a check valve on each one?

 
Switch 1 on

switch 2 off

switch 3 off

switch 4 on

switch 5 off

switch 6 off

switch 7 on

There are no other mods to the bike.

What is the purpose of the gray wire?

 
Dip switches look good except #7. Forum consensus is for it #7-OFF. Also, there is a small black jumper to the left of dp switch #1 and below the LED. It needs to be removed to tell the servo it's sorking with a manual transmission.

 
run the vac hose from the canister to one of the ports on the throttle bodies where one does the throttle body sync. A nipple under a black sealing cap. One is enough with a canister (that's how mine is and it works fine).

put a check valve close to the throttle body nipple connection. Be sure the valve is facing the correct direction. Arrow of air travel toward the throttle body (I believe).

 
If I use all four ports that are used for synch do I need to put a check valve on each one?
Yes, and Y'd together

fjr_ccs100_20090428_007.JPG


My install

The arrows on the check valves point in the direction of the flow.

Do you have any "extra" electronics attached to the brake lights? If so, might/can/will effect whether the servo will engage

 
What is the purpose of the gray wire?
When connected to a switched 12-volt source, provides illumination in the control pad. Since the red wire should also go to a switched source, just tie it into the red wire from the control pad.

It's designed to go to the dash lights in a car installation so that the control pad dims with the instrument panel dimmer. On the bike there's no such device, it just needs the same switched power as the red wire.

 
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