Audiovox Cruise might go on the weekend

[rfulcher]

I may try to do the install on Sunday if the weather sucks and I can't ride. I am thinking about doing some other stuff while the tank is off.

Release middle throttle spring one turn.

throttle body sync

disable windshield auto parking

THEN onto the cruise control install.

From what I have been able to determine:

1 vacuum tap with a vacuum canister, maybe # 3 throttle body, should work fine, I will try this first.

Can I use the power feed from the windshield-parking jumper for the switched source?

Do I have to take the injector rack off; if this can be done will someone point me to the info?

The bike is a 2007 with about 1000 miles. Even though I did this to my old Concours last year I am still a bit uptight about the install on my brand new bike.

I think I have read most of the major audiovox threads. Anything I need to look out for that is not obvious.

 

[dcarver]

Do I have to take the injector rack off; if this can be done will someone point me to the info?

I wimped out and had Smitty do mine.. but IIRC, pulling the TB made drilling the hole for the new cable much, make that MUCH easier and worth the effort to remove the TB. Hope this helps.

 

[dtyo]

The usual response to this kind of question would be to search the forum, but given that I think installing the Audiovox cruise is one of the best Farkles I've done to the bike, I'll have mercy and provide a link to the instructions that made it so easy for me:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?s...=cruise+install

My thanks to FJRCarShopGuy and everyone else who contributed to the wealth of information on installing the Audiovox CCS.

 

[SLK50]

Lots of good info in that link.

A few things I've learned from my own install:

1) Installing servo above radiator IS worth the trouble.

2) Use an impact driver to remove fuel rail and you won't butcher the screws.

3) Windshield retract plug may not be suitable power source. Better choice would be blue plug for

heated grips located below glove box, it only hot AFTER engine starts.

I'm not completely done with mine yet, still have electrical connections to do.

So far everyone's tips have been very helpful. I let you know if I learn anything new or helpful.

 

[Timbo2015]

I took the fuel injection rail off. I have heard others did the installation without, but I found it impossible.

+1 on the impact driver. The fuel rail screws were extremely tight. I was (FINALLY) smart enough to use an impact driver BEFORE I butchered the screws. I got mine out of a JC Whitney catalog about 20 years ago. Best $2.99 plus shipping I ever spent.

I bent the throttle tab in preparation for drilling it, but I may not have grabbed it with the plyers close enough to the base of the tab. It bent closer to the middle than the bottom, and because of that I could not install the screw. I ended up using the cotter pin method which has worked quite well.

Do not leave a whole lot of slack in the CC cable. Too much slack will make the CC very slow to pick up. After initial installation, mine would take 6-8 seconds to pick up the throttle. I removed one link from the chain and now it picks up in about 1-2 seconds, which I find acceptable. I don't want to risk not having enough slack, so I will leave it as is.

I did not install the check valve and vacuum canister and my CC works great without them.

Finally, if you can complete all that in a Sunday, you will be doing a lot better than I did.

 

[v65]

I bent the throttle tab in preparation for drilling it

That can be a no-no, if that tab breaks you can be in for a real headache. That part is not available separately from the fuel injector rail - hence very expensive. In the past they have broken, so you bend them at you own risk.

 

[rfulcher]

Thanks guys, this is the kind of info I was looking for. Those little tidbits not in the major threads, and yea I did a big search first.

Any torque setings I need to know? For example those "tight" screws on the fuel rack, how tight shoud they be, is it a torque things or a "that feels tight enough to me" thing? How about the torque on the T-bar/frame brace?

Thanks guys.

I bent the throttle tab in preparation for drilling it

That can be a no-no, if that tab breaks you can be in for a real headache. That part is not available separately from the fuel injector rail - hence very expensive. In the past they have broken, so you bend them at you own risk.

 

[Inlaw1]

You will want to remove the fuel rail. You will want an impact driver to break the screws loose. There is no torque settings I know of when the rail goes back on. Just snug them down good. There are spacers on the screws under the rail, be sure to retrieve them.

Taking the rail off and putting it back on is a piece of cake. I've had mine apart like three times to redo vacuum lines, check valves and adjust the cable. At this point it probably takes me 20 min max to strip it down, including removing the fuel rail.

 

[Mississippi]

When you pull the fuel injector rail off, watch the O-rings. I had one stick on the end of one of the injectors, and watched it fall off and land somewhere beneath the throttle linkage. Took me about an hour (and a six-pack) to finally fish it out. Also plug the injector holes in the throttle bodies with a clean piece of cloth. I almost dropped a nut down one of them. Luckily, it bounced the right way and landed in the same place the O-ring did.

 

[dtyo]

And two other things to look out for are the 2 spacers that the fuel rail screws go through. Nothing holds the spacers in place once the rail is removed and it's easy for them to go missing.

 

[Gary]

<<< 1 vacuum tap with a vacuum canister, maybe # 3 throttle body, should work fine, I will try this first. >>>

I'll be installing mine in the next few weeks, and I'm going to tap all 4 TB lines, not so much for vacuum, but so it'll be less of a headache to connect vacuum gauge hoses to do TB sync.