Audiovox Cruise Problem

[Clermont_FJR]

Hey there,

Recently installed the Audiovox CCS-100 (much thanks to those supplying info here) on my 2006 FJR-1300A. It works flawlessly when set to 70 or under. Anything above and it cuts out frequently. This is no fun at all when cruising down I75 where 70 makes you a candidate to get run over :blink: . Doesn't seem to be related to going up hill or down. Happens under both conditions.

Any suggestions woudl be greatly appreciated.

BTW: I have the CC unit and PVC canister under the seat (Corbin) and all fits nicely.

 

[drjfjr]

Hey there,
Recently installed the Audiovox CCS-100 (much thanks to those supplying info here) on my 2006 FJR-1300A. It works flawlessly when set to 70 or under. Anything above and it cuts out frequently. This is no fun at all when cruising down I75 where 70 makes you a candidate to get run over :blink: . Doesn't seem to be related to going up hill or down. Happens under both conditions.

Any suggestions woudl be greatly appreciated.

BTW: I have the CC unit and PVC canister under the seat (Corbin) and all fits nicely.

Have you double checked your dip switch settings in the controller. Turn them to the opposite direction then reset. It is possible one might not be making a good connection. I run mine above 70 and it holds great. I do use 2 connections for vacuum on the throttle bodies.

 

[bramfrank]

I've not installed a CS-100 on an FJR, but I had one on my old Concours.

Assuming that it isn't cutting out because of a loose connection on the brake input or from the control pad there IS a maximum puse rate it will accept. There is also a lowest speed at which it can be set and that is 'supposed to' be at 30 mph.

There are 2 (IIRC) switches that control the divider chain that feeds the pulses to the servo. The values are 1000, 2000, 4000 and 8000 pulses per mile and they use the pulse rate to hold the speed. If you have it set to expect 2000 pulses per mile and it in reality 4000, the unit will think you are going twice as fast as you really are and it will let you engage the unit too slow and will refuse to operate out at high rates.

So if it is cutting out too low, set the pulse value to the next HIGHER setting so it thinks you are going slower than it thought you were. You can easily tell which they are by checking the manual.

It will still regulate your speed, and more tightly than before so you might also want to play with the sensitivity switches.

 

[skyway]

This is from fjr info in case you haven't seen this before? I copied these settings during my install and it worked out ok.

Let's program the switch pack.

* To set the Pulses Per Minute for the necessary manual transmission rate of 4000, set Switch 1 to ON and Switch 2 to OFF.

* Set the Speed Signal for Tach Only by moving Switch 3 to OFF.

* Set the Sensitivity to LOW for light vehicles with high horsepower by moving Switch 4 to ON and Switch 5 to OFF.

* When using the included Control Pad, set Switch 6 to OFF.

* Tach Source Select is for a coil connection; set Switch 7 to ON.

 

[Clermont_FJR]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will check and reset the switch block on the controller. If no difference, I'll try the 8000 setting. If still no difference I'll add a second vacumn point into the mix. Way too much fun but well worth it not to have the cramped hand!

 

[Clermont_FJR]

Sorry for the delay getting back here. The problems been solved. All dip switches and connections were "good". One thing I did notice was the cable from the servo was slightly rubbing on it's path to the "tang" connection. I thought about zip strapping the offending part as has been suggested by others in this forum. My problem with that solution is I've had bad luck with zip tie lifespan in high-heat conditions and I wanted a more permanent solution.

What I finally settled on was the following:

1. I cut a piece off the end of the heavy "L" bracket that came with the cruise. The width was approx. the same as the tang.
2. I shaped this piece to follow the contour of the tang so that when attached it extended about 1/4" beyond the stock tang end.
3. Drilled a 1//8" hole throught the end of the existing tang as far toward the end as I could and still have metal on all sides.
4. Put the shaped tang extender in place and marked through the drilled hole.
5. Drilled the hole in the tang extender and made sure both holes lined up.
6. Scuffed up the surfaces in preparation for a little JB Weld.
7. Applied the JB Weld to the side of the tang extender and placed it against the tang.
8. Attached the two together using a 1/8" pop-rivet from the right side.
9. Attached chain and re-aligned the guild so that the servo cable had a completely unobstructed path.

Doing this also eliminated the problem of the bolt/nut attachment directly to the tang hanging up on the throttle cable. No grinding required.
The biggest problem I had was just waiting for the JB to set. Time seems to slow down when you are waiting.

Final note: To do it this way you must remove the injector manifold. This was something I attempted to avoid during my first try but was very happy I did during my second. It looks scary but was actually pretty easy. Do, if you can, use an impact wrench to remove the two screws holding the manifold. They were tight and in a location you don't want to have buggered-up screw heads in.

I have about 2k miles on this modification so far and everything is working flawlessly. What a joy!

Thanks again for the help!

Steve

 

[Mogan]

No, you have the EPA approved version of the Audiovox...

 

[Clermont_FJR]

No, you have the EPA approved version of the Audiovox...

Not quite sure I understand your post??????

 

[ionbeam]

I believe Morgan was referring to your speed getting capped at 70.

 

[Mogan]

No, you have the EPA approved version of the Audiovox...

Not quite sure I understand your post??????

Sorry. Feeling a bit snappy today. Ionbeam has it right.

 

[ChrisB009]

I installed the Audiovox on my 2007 FJR1300 and have had no issues so I can testify it does work on the newer bikes. I placed the module under the tank, the vacuum canister (built from black PVC pipe) wire tied to the radiator hose located under the battery area and soldered all connectors. First double check all connections to include the vacuum connections. Then check for any type of obstruction that may make contact in and around the throttle area. If there is any contact (just the slightest) the module will sense it and will shut down. One other item to watch for is throttle travel. Make sure there is full travel of the throttle from the cruise control cable and that it is able to pull the throttle atleast 3/4's of the way before reaching WOT. FYI I made a bracket to hold the end of the cruise control cable that simply attaches using one of the screws from the injection rails. I found this to be the best solution in the long run however it does take more time.