Audiovox Install Stumper ==

[kaitsdad]

Hoping someone can help.

I've installed on my 06A (finally !! only had it 8 months) my CCS100, and it does not work.

Mechanically, everything is fine, clearances good, throttle is free, etc.

I've NOT installed a vacuum resevoir - this to reduce troubleshooting. Once working, I'll add it in.

The control pad lights, turns on, voltages all check out with my ohm meter on all connections as per the troubleshooting page in the installation guide.

Using the LED test method uncovered by forum member apratt, Audiovox LED testing, I don't see what his posting indicates I should.

Instead of having a steadily blinking light that 'speeds up' when the engine is revved, I have a blinking LED as follows:

4 blinks per second - one second pause - then repeats. Having the bike running or not makes no difference. I've tapped into all 4 coil wires, and no difference.

Any questions, suggestions or ideas would be most welcome. PLLEEEEZZZZEEEE !!!

 

[Pending]

Do you have any devise hooked up to your brake light, ie: Back Off Wig Wag, etc.? My CCS-100 was ready to go & would not work until I removed the WigWag & went back to stock brake lights. CCS-100 worked great after that.

 

[SilveradoSlick]

Not sure I get the blinking light thing. Mine was always just on steady, backlit when disengaged, center led on when engaged. What happens when you press the Set button?

 

[kaitsdad]

Not sure I get the blinking light thing. Mine was always just on steady, backlit when disengaged, center led on when engaged. What happens when you press the Set button?

The control panel lights properly - the blinking light is the test LED on the unit itself. It's next to the 10 pin connector on the solenoid.

 

[radman]

Vac check valve mounted correctly? Brake light possibly stuck on due to sticky rear brake pedal or mis-adjusted switch (common)? Solid connection at coil wire tap?

 

[kaitsdad]

Vac check valve mounted correctly? Brake light possibly stuck on due to sticky rear brake pedal or mis-adjusted switch (common)? Solid connection at coil wire tap?

Rad,

No vac check valve in place. Direct connect to #4. (resevor not yet installed)

Brake lights functioning properly - I do have a 'backoff' - but the CC wires are tapped before the taps for the backoff. I am seeing correct voltages at the 4 wire and 10 wire plug.

Coil tap good - can measure voltage at both wire tap and 10 pin connector.

Tell me where I screwed up, Oh Swami !

 

[dcarver]

Wish i had words of wisdom for you KD, but I simply haven't done one yet. Have a bud examine what ya did, get some fresh eyeballs on the project?

Also.. I have a new unit still in the box. If you need it to test with, pm me.

 

[kaitsdad]

Wish i had words of wisdom for you KD, but I simply haven't done one yet. Have a bud examine what ya did, get some fresh eyeballs on the project?
Also.. I have a new unit still in the box. If you need it to test with, pm me.

dcarver, that's a strong offer. Thank You. I'll keep it in mind.

 

[jestal]

I thnk you will need a vacuum check valve to get enough vacuum from one port (or even several) for the system to work. I never tried it without a check valve but the vacuum level flutters so rapidly that I doubt the exhaust solenoid inside the cruise control can keep up.

If you are trying to check it on the center stand with no load then that may be the problem. It will not work then due to the rapid RPM fluctuations of a no-load condition. Mine works perfectly on the road but will not engage on the center stand. Too much driveline lash and too much rpm variation at no load.

Try disconnecting the brake kill wire and see if it works. You may need to have a diode on the brake light modifier to eliminate any noise from it that may be tripping the cruise.

Double check you ground. With the paint on the FJR frame and the coating on some bolts it can be hard to get a good ground even thru a very tight connector directly to the frame. Use a lock washer to dig into the surface for ground.

 

[kaitsdad]

To further add to the problem description:

There is no 'engagement' whatsoever. The control pad lights up, the "on" led light when turned on, however, there is no attempt by the solenoid to engage. I've tried it while riding multiple times, with absolutely no response from the solenoid.

I was unable to find any documentation on the Audiovox website to further desribe the LED sequences and what they mean.

 

[Shane]

Vac check valve mounted correctly? Brake light possibly stuck on due to sticky rear brake pedal or mis-adjusted switch (common)? Solid connection at coil wire tap?

Rad,

No vac check valve in place. Direct connect to #4. (resevor not yet installed)

Brake lights functioning properly - I do have a 'backoff' - but the CC wires are tapped before the taps for the backoff. I am seeing correct voltages at the 4 wire and 10 wire plug.

Coil tap good - can measure voltage at both wire tap and 10 pin connector.

Tell me where I screwed up, Oh Swami !

The Backoff is your culprit.

Note that the four blinks, short pause and repeat is the same pattern that the Backoff uses.

Ashcan the Backoff, and put it on another bike. I tried the relay thing to isolate the signal before removing mine, but no love.

Shane

 

[kaitsdad]

Do you have any devise hooked up to your brake light, ie: Back Off Wig Wag, etc.? My CCS-100 was ready to go & would not work until I removed the WigWag & went back to stock brake lights. CCS-100 worked great after that.

The Backoff is your culprit.
Note that the four blinks, short pause and repeat is the same pattern that the Backoff uses.

Ashcan the Backoff, and put it on another bike. I tried the relay thing to isolate the signal before removing mine, but no love.

Shane

Pending, Shane, that's two of you that mention the Backoff.

It's coming off tomorrow afternoon- I'll let ya all know what happens.

 

[FJRocket]

Betting dollars to doughnuts it's the Backoff causing the problem. KD will probably owe Pending a beer, and Pending owes me at least a beer.

Seems you can't hook hardly ANYTHING to the tail lights on these bikes without getting the CCS to go all WONKY. HAH! Anything that changes the voltage from anything other than 12 volts or no volts seems to mess the system up. No LED lights, no modulators. (unless you add some diodes like Jestal suggests below?!?)

I have to admit that on my '04 I did have extra lighting on the back. Two strips of LED light. Not modulating, though, so it did NOT effect how the CCS100 worked. Still works.

 

[jestal]

I have a Hyper-Lite flashing brake light/LED underneath the luggage rack on my 03 and it does not affect the Audivox cruise.....but it is isolated with diodes where it connects to the brake light circuit. Not sure if it would bother the cruise anyway since it only comes on with the brakes when the cruise would shut down anyway but....

 

[dcarver]

You all need the Voedesky Cyberlite!

 

[radman]

There are many reports of various tail/brake light add-ons messin' with the CCS. Had he mentioned the add on at the beginning, no doubt he'd be on cruise right now. And I agree with jestal on the check valve-might get away with none with 4 pots connected, but not one, cruise will be squirrely as hell.

 

[Constant Mesh]

Where did you connect the red & purple wires into the FJR's brake light circuits? The purple wire has to be at ground potential for the servo to actuate. Any residual voltage on the purple wire is a no-no except of course when a brake is applied.

The '06 has a brake light relay. The earlier models didn't. Both of the brake switches are normally closed. They are wired in series and power the relay coil. When a brake switch is actated the relay drops out and the brake lights are lit.

 

[dcarver]

No news yet?

 

[radman]

No news yet?

It works now but it's difficult to type new thread title "Audiovox won't Disengage Stumper" when you're locked at 80 mph.