Audovox throttle connection and reservoir size

[Roy Epperson]

I've read a "bunch" of the posts on installing the Audiovox particularly on the '07. Some times we read too much and more questions arise :glare:

Why is the servo attached to the tang verses using one of the looped cable attached through the return cable end end and then overlaying the manual pull cable? No I have not tried it or looked under the fuel rail to what might physically prevent it.

I was reading a number of posts from last Spring ('08) where folks were having problems with the Audiovox disengaging at higher speeds. There were several comments that it might be because the tang might not allow the throttle to be advance far enough.

My current plan is to connect through check values and Ys the 4 cylinders into a reservior 1-1/2" by the width of the tool box pan. Does that length/side sound "right"?

Thanks in advance,

Roy

 

[Zorlac]

FWIW the CCS-100 manual states that if you have >6" of vacuum, a vac canister is unnecessary.

I used 1 TB port, about 10" of 3/4" ID rubber hose with a check valve in series with the vac line on the way to the servo to act as a canister.

I also measured ~20" of vacuum at idle with only 1 port.

Drilling the tang with a long drill bit is a piece of cake, even with the fuel injector rail in place.

 

[Fred W]

The reason you don't want to use the overlaid throttle cable is that when not using the CCS the slack cable end may foul on the throttle cable (a really bad thing). Using the beaded chain off to the side there is less opportunity for it to mess up the throttle operation.

 

[ionbeam]

...Why is the servo attached to the tang verses using one of the looped cable attached through the return cable end end and then overlaying the manual pull cable?...

I suppose a really motivated person could take the throttle pulley on the handlebar and modify it so that the AVCC cable could attach there. A truly dedicated & motivated person would make a split throttle pulley with the OEM throttle cable attached to one split and the AVCC on the second split. When the AVCC engages, a detent would release the throttle tube from the AVCC pulley, letting the throttle be controlled but not actuate the throttle tube :wacko: Where is good ol' Fred H?

 

[Constant Mesh]

You might get 10" of Hg vacuum at idle but that's about it. The FJR spec is 250 mm Hg intake vacuum at idle which is 9.8 inches of Hg.

 

[ionbeam]

You might get 10" of Hg vacuum at idle but that's about it. The FJR spec is 250 mm Hg intake vacuum at idle which is 9.8 inches of Hg.

I've measured over the road vacuum at light engine loads to be around 4-5" or less. Under high engine load the vacuum drops to the 1" range.

 

[Zorlac]

"Under high engine load the vacuum drops to the 1" range"

If that's the case, then even a large canister might be depleted on a long uphill grade.

 

[Zorlac]

You might get 10" of Hg vacuum at idle but that's about it. The FJR spec is 250 mm Hg intake vacuum at idle which is 9.8 inches of Hg.

I stuck a car vac gauge on it and it was dead center in the green at idle.
From this website:

When the engine is healthy and working correctly, at idle the needle of the gauge should be steady and within the range of 17 – 22 inches of mercury.

 

[ionbeam]

I've not seen even a steep hill drop vacuum all the way to the 1" range when the AVCC is in charge of the throttle, but manually rolling on the throttle will defiantly will do the deed. I have seen the AVCC drop vacuum to the 2-3" range when engaging and in the mountains.

When the AVCC is commanding high engine loads it is not venting vacuum, once the vacuum cup in the AVCC has been displaced there is no significant vacuum change at the AVCC after that. Someplace in the Forum I've posted the actual surface area of the AVCC vacuum cup, IIRC, it is someplace around 10 sq/in so one inch of vacuum will still exert a large amount of force.

Edited to add: I've ridden around quite a bit with my vacuum gauge connected the AVCC plumbing and I've never seen more than ~10" of vacuum at any time. My gauge is accurate. A factory stock car's vacuum system should always have more vacuum than a high output motorcycle engine. What is green on your gauge? My automotive gauges show green from 18 - 22".

 

[bmwhd]

I've read a "bunch" of the posts on installing the Audiovox particularly on the '07. Some times we read too much and more questions arise :glare:
Why is the servo attached to the tang verses using one of the looped cable attached through the return cable end end and then overlaying the manual pull cable? No I have not tried it or looked under the fuel rail to what might physically prevent it.

I was reading a number of posts from last Spring ('08) where folks were having problems with the Audiovox disengaging at higher speeds. There were several comments that it might be because the tang might not allow the throttle to be advance far enough.

My current plan is to connect through check values and Ys the 4 cylinders into a reservior 1-1/2" by the width of the tool box pan. Does that length/side sound "right"?

Thanks in advance,

Roy

The issue with the Gen II bikes was resolved. The resolution was to change the "standard" setting on dip switch 7 to the opposite that was used on Gen I bikes. The problem had nothing to do with the tang.

 

[timalan]

When I did my Cruise control, I mounted a dual Manifold pressure guage from a twin engine Beach to the ram ball mount. I connected one gauge to the manifold and one to the post vacuum check valve and the canister. It was fun to watch if nothing else. But after watching what the cruise did to the post valve can, while in an uphill(cruise on) . and watching the engine port needle at the same time. While climbing a long hill most of the vacuum disappears on the port while the Canister holds very well just taking a tick of vacuum at a time and holding plenty of vac on the canister/servo side. I used the Audiovox Reservoir sold as an option with the ccs and it works great. I have also used 1 1/2 pipe about 5 inches long and a small fuel filter and can tell no difference in the can size, as far as holding a speed smoothly. Just some extra vacuum in storage is important. and One port seems to be plenty according to what I saw on the guages while riding.

And for what it's worth the tang attachment is easiest and adequate and has less chance for a hangup or failure. That is just my humble opinion, which is not worth much around here normally. I have only done 5 FJRs and a concours and working on the SV. So I am limited to what I know compared to lots of these guys.

Tim

edit: that would be Beech(airplane) not Beach (sand and Margaritas)

 

[just roy]

no reservoir 2 up lots of cargo thru the mountains of Va, W Va and Pa with no issues. why add solutions to problems that don't exist. run the cruise if it kicks out add a fuel filter as a reservoir. i also advocate removing the return cable. that way the throttle grip isn't always spinning and you can rest your hand on it without interfering with the cruise. which is probably a cause of the kicking out blamed on low vacuum.

 

[Zorlac]

FWIW, there's a guy on the Concours forum who's CC keypad got wet enough that the cruise activated on it's own and couldn't be shut off, he was able to overpower it with the throttle grip but it was difficult.

This wouldn't be possible with the return cable disconnected.

 

[ionbeam]

Water in the keypad is a known issue. Here is one way to deal with that risk Seal The Pad. Some people also added a second power switch that will kill disengage the AVCC no matter what.

 

[Harald]

Some people also added a second power switch that will kill disengage the AVCC no matter what.

I have one of those switches on my FJR. It's similar to the one on the right:

 

[ionbeam]

Some people also added a second power switch that will kill disengage the AVCC no matter what.

I have one of those switches on my FJR. It's similar to the one on the right:

Ya know, I can think of quite a few situations where that wouldn't be an optimal solution.

 

[Fred W]

Some people also added a second power switch that will kill disengage the AVCC no matter what.

I have one of those switches on my FJR. It's similar to the one on the right:

Ya know, I can think of quite a few situations where that wouldn't be an optimal solution.

I was thinking the same thing. Like when riding along at ~80 mph on the Interstate with BSTs* bearing down on you.

* Big Scary Trucks

 

[jasona1700]

I've read a "bunch" of the posts on installing the Audiovox particularly on the '07. Some times we read too much and more questions arise :glare:
Why is the servo attached to the tang verses using one of the looped cable attached through the return cable end end and then overlaying the manual pull cable? No I have not tried it or looked under the fuel rail to what might physically prevent it.

I was reading a number of posts from last Spring ('08) where folks were having problems with the Audiovox disengaging at higher speeds. There were several comments that it might be because the tang might not allow the throttle to be advance far enough.

My current plan is to connect through check values and Ys the 4 cylinders into a reservior 1-1/2" by the width of the tool box pan. Does that length/side sound "right"?

Thanks in advance,

Roy

I had some issues with the screw I used to attach the beaded chain to the tang. The screw was hitting the idle stop, causing the bike to idle at approx 2500rpm. Drove me nuts. Of course, it was my fault for drilling the hole too low on the tang. So what I did was use the shorter looped cable. I ran the looped side through the hole I drilled on the tang. Then ran the other end through the loop and pulled it snug. This was a last resort for me, and I was very concerned about the cable rubbing on itself and fraying. After 3000 miles, I recently pulled the tank off and inspected the cable. As good as the day I installed it, and no problems what so ever with the CC.

Don't get bogged down on all the instructions out there. I would weed through them, and pick out what you need.. even cut and paste them into your own directions. The job really isn't as bad as it is made out to be with all the problems people seem to have. And there are plenty of people out here who have ran into the exact problems you may encounter.. so just ask! Keep it simple, and you'll do fine!

 

[v65]

This was a last resort for me, and I was very concerned about the cable rubbing on itself and fraying.

If it ever becomes a problem there is an alternative. In the cc kit there is a small bolt with a large shank on it for the metal eyelet you attach to the beads. You can tap your hole for this bolt and then ground down the threads sticking through the hole so they do not contact the throttle cable. A little loctite and away you go.