autocom and alternator noise filtering

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chickey191

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Calling on the wisdom of the list for suggestions as to what noise filter I should be picking up from Rat Shack (TM- Dumb looks for free) tonight.

Installed a temporary connection for autocom last night as I have been running on batteries. It picks up every electrical noise - including the windshield going up or down. Need some sort of in-line filter to knock down the buzz. does sound more like the charging system than spark plugs.

 
My autocom is still sitting in my "to do pile" but when I called them during the purchase phase they were pretty clear that to get their claimed sound quality you must ground to the battery.

Maybe Fred H. will chime in with his .02 but that is my hunch (ground issue)

 
Autocom has a direct wire harness kit designed to insulate all the bikes electrical noises. I'm at work now but will post up the part# this evening.

I powered mine up via a switched powerlet socket and Warchilds barrier strip farkle and have had no issues with electrical noise. I only purchased the cheaper (with no filter) direct wire from Kieth in Tulsa for around $8.

 
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Where are you picking up power and where are you grounded. My Pro 7 wired to the bike has no problems.
I am wired direct to the battery. Using the negative battery terminal as ground. What I actually did is run wires to ground through a fused cord - with a SAE connector for quick removal. Took the autocom harness (also fused) and connected to the a SAE connector - I have tapped into this line for power to a V-1.

The autocom had no issues when running on batteries - so the things that have changed are:

autocom wiring harness (with PTT switch) which is way too long for this temporary installation - changed from D battery connection.

I wil say that all these wires, plus Satellite radio, v-1 and such are coiled and tied in a tank bag creating I'm sure one heck of an antenna.

autocom suggests using the battery for ground - which is one reason I did it this way.

 
My active 7 is wired to the, well now to my Blue Sea. I've never had any errant noise - except my singing occasionally! Wish I could help.

 
I am wired direct to the battery. Using the negative battery terminal as ground. What I actually did is run wires to ground through a fused cord - with a SAE connector for quick removal. Took the autocom harness (also fused) and connected to the a SAE connector - I have tapped into this line for power to a V-1.
Why are you fusing the ground side of the connection? :blink: Typically the fuse goes on the + side of the power, as close to the battery (or source) as possible. If the postive lead shorts out, and your fuse is on the ground side, it's going to do no good.

Also, connectors are a notorious place for noise to occur, and having big loops of wire in the bag is a big no-no as noise goes. You're probably picking up the fuel pump constantly.

 
I mis-typed -

I'm runing a fused cord to the positive terminal - and also using the battery as the ground. the fuse IS on the positive side.

I'll play with it this evening to see if moving some of the cords around reduces the ground loop effect.

but I'm still looking for recommendation for a filter of some sort.

 
I have my system under the seat, so I don't have too much excess wire, If you cant cut the lines to make them shorter, try twisting the wires together as they form the loops. It may help reduce some of the pickup, kinda like twisted pairs of wire in a multi pair comm cable.

And what Slapnpop said, ground direct to the battery if you can.

 
Not knowing what Autocom system your using, might I suggest calling an aficionado of all things motorcycle communications Kieth Goudelock @ 918-446-2245. He'll get you hooked up pronto. ;)

 
Here you go, or go to Radio Something and get a similar bare wire GLI...it'll be bigger than these.

https://www.electricalconnection.com/audio/noise-filters.htm

I've tried the audio filter...didn't do anything. This is an ongoing problem with the Autocom and GL1800. I've been using battery power on the FJR, but had anticipated getting a GLI to resolve the problem

I'm curious, though about you wiring the unit directly to the battery, rather than to a switched, fused connection on the fuse block.

Others have solved these sorts of problems with relatively expensive separate fuse blocks.

 
I'm curious, though about you wiring the unit directly to the battery, rather than to a switched, fused connection on the fuse block.
Others have solved these sorts of problems with relatively expensive separate fuse blocks.
thanks for the link -

IT IS A TEMPORARY installation until I get into the bike and do a complete wiring job for everything, PHID's, grips, powerlets, gps, autocom, v-1, etc.

 
I went direct to battery also on my Pro-7. Then I e-mailed AutoCom about the noise you describe and they pretty much ignored my explanation and told me to go direct to the battery. No duh, thanks for all the bananas! Now I just run the 9V power and everything is good (except for buying a 9V for every other day-long ride). Grr...

 
I went direct to battery also on my Pro-7. Then I e-mailed AutoCom about the noise you describe and they pretty much ignored my explanation and told me to go direct to the battery. No duh, thanks for all the bananas! Now I just run the 9V power and everything is good (except for buying a 9V for every other day-long ride). Grr...
To have a longer lasting battery, use these lithium 9V batteries (clicky here) . Supposed to last 4 times as long as regular batteries (so they make up for their own cost).

 
Doesn't answer Chickey's audio filter question (curious myself but no advice)

How about a rechargable 9V?

I use rechargeable AAA/AA for my handheld geocaching GPS and stuff.

I've been using the same set for 3-4 years now still holds a great charge.

Package says you can charge it 1000 times (~$6)

B00099YM5G.01._AA280_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg


 
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