Autolite Iridium Spark Plugs

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I ran a set of the autolite standard plugs in my FJR, purchased from Rock Auto when I was buying some other stuff for a car. They worked fine and were dirt cheap. But lately I've been buying the standard NGK CR8E's (also from them.)

I still do not see the point of putting iridium plugs in an FJR.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
If they can go longer without removal/changeout that's an advantage simply because you'll wrestle with the plug caps less often. One of my plug caps is very difficult to remove and I damaged it during a removal. It simply grips the threaded top of the plug too tightly. It's an outlier compared to the other three. I finally ended up cutting the cap into two pieces. I separated the top rubbery portion which covers the round opening from the hard tube lower portion which connects to the wire and the plug. Now I first grab the top portion and slide it up the wire and then loop a string around the remaining hard tube portion down in the head and pull up on the string removing the cap from the plug.

It's surgery I didn't want to perform but I grew tired of the wrestling match. A new cap is expensive and the simple surgery offered a viable, low cost option which works for me.

Maybe the part inside the cap which grips the plug can be replaced with one having less bite. If it's available I could use one.

 
I wouldn't want to leave the plugs in the head any longer than 15-16k miles, which the OE ones can do easily with no problems.

FWIW the caps can be replaced. 5JW-82370-00-00 They screw onto the ends of the wires from the coils. Easy (but pricey)

 
Is this the place to talk about using anti-seize paste on spark plugs?
fool.gif


 
Why not leave the plugs in longer than 15-16K miles? And, at least with the NGK's they tell you not to use anti-sieze, and give their explanation why...
https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-0630111antisieze.pdf

Why not? Mostly because I want to take them out and look at them. They tell you a lot about how the bike has been running. Once I take them out I want to put new ones in cause they are cheap.

15k miles is a bit more than a year (but less than two) at my mileage rate. I don't think that changing them every year is particularly burdensome.

And I agree with you 100%. No anti-sieze should ever be used on the plugs.

 
Haven't used Autolites in the FJR, but I did score two sets (on sale) from Rock Auto for both metric cages. Both had NGKs originally...no ill affects yet, and my 4Runner eats plugs every 30K no matter what brand.

--G

 
Haven't used Autolites in the FJR, but I did score two sets (on sale) from Rock Auto for both metric cages. Both had NGKs originally...no ill affects yet, and my 4Runner eats plugs every 30K no matter what brand.
--G
The 4Runner eats Iridiums in 30k? I changed out the Iridiums in my Pilot @ 90,000 mi. and they looked like new, the car was running fine and no change in fuel mileage with the new plugs.

Not suggesting leaving Iridiums in an FJR for 30+k but they probably would still be doing their job just fine.

 
Not suggesting leaving Iridiums in an FJR for 30+k but they probably would still be doing their job just fine.
Well, I agree that two of them would. The problem, you see, is that there is no such thing as dual iridium plugs and half of the FJR plugs fire backwards. So half of the plugs are firing from a conventional side electrode with no iridium benefit. I suppose that you could say that there is a small benefit for those backwards firers in that its partner plug theoretically fires more easily, so it has more of the coil's energy applied to it in series.

I had a "wasted spark" ignition design in my last Ford Exploder 5.0L engine. That engine called for (Autolite/Motorcraft) dual platinum plugs for that very reason. They used to go ~50k miles between changes.

 
Not suggesting leaving Iridiums in an FJR for 30+k but they probably would still be doing their job just fine.
Well, I agree that two of them would. The problem, you see, is that there is no such thing as dual iridium plugs and half of the FJR plugs fire backwards. So half of the plugs are firing from a conventional side electrode with no iridium benefit. I suppose that you could say that there is a small benefit for those backwards firers in that its partner plug theoretically fires more easily, so it has more of the coil's energy applied to it in series.

I had a "wasted spark" ignition design in my last Ford Exploder 5.0L engine. That engine called for (Autolite/Motorcraft) dual platinum plugs for that very reason. They used to go ~50k miles between changes.
I just rotate them. I run a set of Iridiums for a year and then swap them by moving the number 4 plug to the number one cylinder and moving the others down one place. Good for another year.
smile.png


Just teasing, though I have though about it. Once I have the tank up and the t-bar off I'd just as soon put in new plugs. I do notice that two of the plugs wear differently from the other two.

 
Haven't used Autolites in the FJR, but I did score two sets (on sale) from Rock Auto for both metric cages. Both had NGKs originally...no ill affects yet, and my 4Runner eats plugs every 30K no matter what brand.
--G
The 4Runner eats Iridiums in 30k? I changed out the Iridiums in my Pilot @ 90,000 mi. and they looked like new, the car was running fine and no change in fuel mileage with the new plugs.
Conventional plugs were plain ugly at 30K, Iridiums not as bad, but still much worse than my Mazda3 at double+ the mileage. Changing them always nets a smoother running engine and an increase in MPG. Strange how different ignition systems treat the plugs so differently.
unknw.gif


--G

 
Has anyone played with hotter or colder plugs in the FJR? Just curious.
For what purpose? My plugs come out looking a nice tan color indicating they have been running at the right temperature range.

IINBDFI
Just curious is all. Not sure of a purpose or a need. Just a question. And I listen to guys say about reading plugs and yes you can get an indication but unless you are doing chop runs, running then shutting down and pulling the plugs you are only seeing what happened on your last run. Back in the carb days yes I would say plugs were way readable, but EFI makes it tough. Yes you can get a indication but I do not think it is like back in the day of carbs. Next I will want to know if anyone is indexing plugs.

Anyway it was just a question and wanted to see if anyone has tried it it for any reason with any results worth noting.

 
Iridiums tempt you to leave them in without looking at them. Plugs should be removed once a year or so just to prevent the seizing of the threads if nothing else. In my bike, the Iridiums run a heat range too hot (which most do, and they tell you that they may). In others' bikes, I see the nice tan on non-iridiums. Anyway, I'd say just don't ignore your plugs. Anti-seize, generally no unless you are real careful to use only a teeny bit and never for more than half the length of the thread so you maintain a good ground.

 
Next I will want to know if anyone is indexing plugs.
Hehehe...I wanna know how many boxes of plugs it would take to find a set.

Of course, being a gasket seat plug... you could just get some indexing washers...

I have always had great luck with autolite plugs, and would not hesistate to use them in anything.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
"Plugs should be removed once a year or so just to prevent the seizing of the threads if nothing else."

Sorry to be harsh but that's absurd.

On newer cars the replacement schedule for spark plugs can be 100K+ miles. Don't believe they're being removed periodically to prevent seizing. On one of my cars the plugs weren't touched until 105K. It was still running fine (mpg still good) but I decided to change them per the recommended maintenance chart. They came out easily -- definitely no seizing.

It's been my experience with the FJR that the plugs loosen a bit over time. It doesn't take much torque to remove them. I don't put anti-seize on them. They just loosen a bit. Obviously the plug threads are alloyed/coated to work well with aluminum heads.

 

Latest posts

Top