Available Fuse Slots On '05 FJR?

[Bubba]

I just installed a heated seat using Corbin's instructions as guidelines. It uses a pigtail that is shaped like a fuse and is supposed to plug into an unused slot in the fuseblock under panel "A". I got the seat working, but now my windshield won't raise.

Looking at the label inside the fuseblock cover, it seems to say that the rightmost slot is "reserved". So I plugged my seat into that slot. Oops. It was a windy ride in to work today. But I had a warm butt.

Are there any available fuse block slots on an '05? I see several marked "spare", but there don't seem to be any wires attached. I think they're just storage slots for spare fuses.

Any insight would be most appreciated.

 

[BrunDog]

I am fairly certain the SPARE slots have the +12V bus on one side of them. You need to put the appropriate terminal into the other side and add the fuse. IIRC there are two.

-BD

 

[Bubba]

There is not a spare fuse socket on an '05 ABS. At least not in or in proximity to the fuse block. You apparently cannot connect a Corbin heated seat in a manner approximating their instructions.

Crap-and-a-half.

Interestingly, one of the spare sockets does have two grounds. The other spare sockets are not stuffed.

Anyone know of an easy way to connect a jumper from another switched power lead?

 

[smthng]

You need to start considering a switched distribution block... Do some digging and you'll find more detailed info, but basically, you'll need a relay, a distribution block, a switched source, a reasonably hefty fuse (20 amp or so) and wiring to the battery. It's fairly easy and painless, although it may be a half-day project due to the tupperware.

Look into it... you'll be glad you did the next time you want to add an electrical bit.

 

[Bubba]

So, from the parts list you posted, it sounds like you don't need a high current switched source? The switched source just closes the relay?

Any suggestion on which switched source to use? Since I don't have a spare fuse socket (switched or otherwise), I can't just grab a signal there. It seems like I'd need wire the relay in series with one of the in-use sockets (moving the fuse to the new block)? Or maybe I need to splice into a switched source and wire in parallel with the fuse?

Are there any complete kits do do this or do I have to go buy parts?

Thank you.

I'd still be interested in hearing ideas that don't involve installing a switched distribution block, at least for temporary use. I need decide soon if I have to return the seat (14 days minus days elapsed from last Saturday) and I'd like to be able to use it for a few days before that deadline. Like, is there some type of Y-connector that would allow me to connect a fuse plus a pigtail into an existing fuse socket?

 

[Bounce]

I tend to avoid using the OEM harness for accessories of any kind. I use power distribution blocks, relays, and separate wiring to avoid creating electrical problems.

https://www.bikes-n-spikes.org/mods/pdb/pdb.html

is one example of how to accomplish it. It's highly flexible for each person's preferences.

 

[smthng]

So, from the parts list you posted, it sounds like you don't need a high current switched source?  The switched source just closes the relay?

Correct! :clap:

Any suggestion on which switched source to use?

very much a preference thing... whatever you are comfortable tapping in to. Since you got the relay idea, I'm guessing you probably have at least as much electrical understanding as I do (not saying much there, but it doesn't take much). A number of possibilities... On the front side, you have the brake light actuator on the throttle handlebar, Running light harness on the inside of the fairing, horn circuit, dash power, hazard switch and probably about 20 others. On the rear end, I'd go hunting for the running lights - Real easy to find and the wire goes just about everywhere you could want for tapping into it.

  Since I don't have a spare fuse socket (switched or otherwise), I can't just grab a signal there.  It seems like I'd need wire the relay in series with one of the in-use sockets (moving the fuse to the new block)?  Or maybe I need to splice into a switched source and wire in parallel with the fuse?

Not sure I understand you here, but it doesn't really matter. Just slap a fuse inline from the battery to the main power on the relay. RatShack sells the inline mini fuse sockets for $5 I think. Nothing to it. Fuse as close to the battery as possible (making sure you can get to it quickly if you need to of course), then run the relay off that.

Are there any complete kits do do this or do I have to go buy parts?

None that I know of, but the entire batch of crap can easily be found at RatShack, although you might want to hit an auto part store for a better relay.

I'd still be interested in hearing ideas that don't involve  installing a switched distribution block, at least for temporary use.  I need decide soon if I have to return the seat (14 days minus days elapsed from last Saturday) and I'd like to be able to use it for a few days before that deadline.  Like, is there some type of Y-connector that would allow me to connect a fuse plus a pigtail into an existing fuse socket?

Okay, here's an option, but it's at your own risk... *I* wouldn't do it, but I'm a bit of a paranoid freak.

The Yamaha heated grips operate off the brake light power circuit. They'll burn the halibut out of you on high, but I don't know what kind of draw they have. Suffice to say, the brake light circuit can handle that. It might be able to handle the seat heat. Not real sure, but if you're desperate and don't want to wire up a relay, it's an option. Of course, if someone were just trying it out to see if they liked it, they could just bypass the bike circuitry all together and wire it straight to the battery with an inline 30 amp fuse and a manual switch. As long as they remember to always turn it off until they've decided to keep it and wire it correctly. But you didn't hear that from me.

 

[Mogan]

I also recommend going the fuse block route. I started out just adding one or two things but later had several and it quickly became a mess. The only way to keep it organized is with a block. And, given the feeble electrical power headroom on the FJR it's also handy to have individually fused circuits that are easy to access (depending on where you put the block).

West Marine makes a very nice 6 or 12 circuit unit. Centech (sold by aerostitch) also makes a nice one for 6 I believe. I have the big West Marine installed under my seat after having removed the plastic box on top of the ECU.

If you want you can also do some fancy things like hook up the relay to a source that only powers when the engine is on. I used the headlights. This prevents any accessory drain while the engine is cranking.

 

[Bubba]

Thank you, all.

I found out I misunderstood Corbin's instructions and Corbin's written instructions are incorrect. The former led me to believe I needed an unused socket. The latter led me to believe my '05 ABS has a different fuse layout than the '03 Corbin used in their diagrams.

The Corbin pigtail does complete the circuit it's plugged into AND route power through a separate fuse to the seat. That is, it does the Y-connection thing I was asking about above. Their written instructions say to install into the back-up socket, but their photos say install into the headlight socket.

I went the headlight socket route and everything works great. Toasty hands (Yammy heated grips). Toasty butt. No headlight issues. Big windshield. Heli risers. Real comfy in Seattle rain. We'll see how it is in January.

I think I'll now do the auxiliary fuse block thing you guys suggest. Not that it doesn't work as is, but I just like the idea of having dedicated circuits, water resistant housings, etc. And I like having expansion capacity. Thanks for the parts ideas. I appreciate the pointers.

Now if that high output rotor would just come on the market...

 

[yamahlr]

Electrical issues aside, how do you like the seat? Did you get the front+back or the front +smuggler. That is the route I'm a thinkin of.

 

[Warpdrv]

+1 Was interested in lookin at new seats.... They say the new front + back is new softer foam, and others were complaining that is wasn't the best seat....

Some solid Input would be awesome...

Glad the install was so easy... sounds easier then the whole Fuse Block but upon adding more and more... there is no better way.... just no need for that just yet...

Thanks

Warp