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fljab

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I've looked and don't see this specifically addressed; I also have either thrown away or misplaced my original instruction manual, so had to ask...

I am looking to get faster response from my unit. To be honest, it's a PITA in anything but moderate traffic on flat ground. It will maintain speed fine, I really just think it's a response issue. Yes, I have a good vac canister I built out of 1.5" PVC with a check valve and I'm confident it's not leaking.

I've also replaced the stock control pad with a better setup, so that's not the issue either.

Which brings me to the dip switches. Currently, I'm configured:

> 1-4-7 ON

> 2-3-5-6 OFF

Can't I change one of these to get better response? As I can't find the original instructions, I don't want to just start changing positions blindly, so, anyone know or can look for me?

I'm doing some other maintenance so am at a point I can go in there and service this, so wanted to try something different.

TIA!

 
Switches 4 and 5 are the sensitivity levels.

Try turning 4 off and see how it goes. That moves from low sensitivity (high HP light weight) to medium. Turning 5 on with 4 off moves it to high, meant for low HP high weight. The manual doesn't list a setting with both on.

 
I've looked and don't see this specifically addressed; I also have either thrown away or misplaced my original instruction manual, so had to ask...

I am looking to get faster response from my unit. To be honest, it's a PITA in anything but moderate traffic on flat ground. It will maintain speed fine, I really just think it's a response issue. Yes, I have a good vac canister I built out of 1.5" PVC with a check valve and I'm confident it's not leaking.

I've also replaced the stock control pad with a better setup, so that's not the issue either.

Which brings me to the dip switches. Currently, I'm configured:

> 1-4-7 ON

> 2-3-5-6 OFF

Can't I change one of these to get better response? As I can't find the original instructions, I don't want to just start changing positions blindly, so, anyone know or can look for me?

I'm doing some other maintenance so am at a point I can go in there and service this, so wanted to try something different.

TIA!
Quick question, when you talk about better response, are you referring to response to pressing, say, the accelerate button, or are you referring to how long it takes the unit to respond to a change in load (such as an incline)?

 
Quick question, when you talk about better response, are you referring to response to pressing, say, the accelerate button, or are you referring to how long it takes the unit to respond to a change in load (such as an incline)?
I took him to mean responsiveness to slopes. He said it maintains speed when flat, and he posted elsewhere about it not holding hills well.

Not holding hills may lead to a vacuum capacity issue. But being slow to kick in on a hill may be a sensitivity issue.

 
Switches 4 and 5 are the sensitivity levels.

Try turning 4 off and see how it goes. That moves from low sensitivity (high HP light weight) to medium. Turning 5 on with 4 off moves it to high, meant for low HP high weight. The manual doesn't list a setting with both on.
Thank You! That's exactly what I was looking for!

And, to answer the other Q's about responsiveness; basically it's everything.

>When I set it, it's slow to come on line.

>When I bump up or down after a set, it's slow to respond.

>When going up hills, it's slow to pick up speed.

>And, lastly, I know that on other factory cruise controls - both on bikes and any car I've owned - you can set a speed - say 70mph - then if you need to accelerate due to traffic conditions and then take your foot (hand!) off the throttle, the speed will go no lower than 70 mph. Not so on this one; it would dip to maybe 62-65 before picking up again.

It's a pain in the arse sometimes. I had waited until I tested/replaced the factory control pad; with that done I'm looking at other things but then couldn't find the damned box it came in, and it's been sitting on my workbench for better part of a yr! And, just so ya know, I did a ~2500 mile test to Michigan & back last weekend and am now fixing/adjusting a few things before the next run - to NC/TN mountains over Memorial Day weekend.

Thanks again; I'll turn #4 off, test, and if I have to #5 on and see what happens!

 
Do check for slack in the bead chain because it can cause some of your problems such as being slow to pick up when the set button is pressed. The bead chain should be as tight as possible without interfering with the throttle from being able to close down to the tab stop. I'm willing to bet that your chain is a good part of your problem.

 
Yeah, what you described in post #6 is different than what was described in the original post, and where you've posted elsewhere. That's the first time I saw you say slow to initially engage.

That's a slack bead chain, guaranteed. If it gets slack enough then it won't ever engage, the CPU will give up after a certain amount of cable motion with no response.

With the tank up and the throttle closed, the bead chain should be tight. Not tight enough to keep the throttle off the idle adjust screw, but pretty damn close.

If the beads hang visibibly then they're too loose.

Dipping below the speed after you accelerate before resuming again is also indicative of bead chain slack, same reason. Cable moves, moves some more, moves some more, and finally all the slack is taken up. And again, too much slack and it will disengage entirely.

If it's holding speed on a flat, and dips as the road rises, that's indicative of insufficient vacuum, since the fact that it's engaged and holding level speed means the slack is already taken up. You might want to investigate the manifold source instead of using a single vacuum port. By manifold source I mean using all four ports with check valves in the hoses, for your vacuum source.

 
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I had a problem with anal beads like that once.. Sold 9 sheep before I figured it out.. :rolleyes:

Where was ya then Walt? :blink:

 
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