Average Brake Life

[paste007]

How long should the factory brakes be good for AND when replacing them, any suggestions versus the factory pads?

Thanks.

Paste.

 

[Ignacio]

That's hugely variable. Being a long distance rider I'll probably have to go over 100,000 miles before I even think about pads. A canyon carver may have to worry after 20,000. I've got a pair of Carbon Lorraines because of part of a Group Buy several years ago and they've been decent.

 

[GalaxyBlue]

I have 17k semi-hard cornering miles, Hard on the brakes, And i still have ablut 1/4" before the rivets... I will be replacing them before i get to riding this year.

 

[SkooterG]

As Iggy said, hugely variable.

30k on my first set of front brake pads because they wore extremely uneven: The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

64k on my second set of front brake pads and I am in the process of replacing them. They wore just a little bit uneven and I probably could have got a *few* thousand more out of them.

95k on my original rear pads, and they still have about 1/4 of life left.

As for brand of pads, I don't think it makes much difference. Different folks will report both good and bad experiences with the same aftermarket pad. Of course, the OEM pads work fine too. So, pick your poison.

 

[GunMD]

I just watched GZ pull off his OEM brake pads and they were pretty worn, but not really done yet. (He has around 90K on the odo). As far as aftermarket replacements, I'm not real sure what to tell you...I do know that Spiegler rotors are expected to wear out within 25K miles.

GZ's brake cleaning device:

 

[twowheelnut]

That's hugely variable. Being a long distance rider I'll probably have to go over 100,000 miles before I even think about pads. A canyon carver may have to worry after 20,000. I've got a pair of Carbon Lorraines because of part of a Group Buy several years ago and they've been decent.

Try 8k on the rears with the Carbon Lorraines from the GB. :blink: Perchance, might a visit to Jenny Craig be in order for the Nutinator?

 

[SkooterG]

Looks like GZ and I are at similar points in our rally season preparations. Of course, having to also perform playa hopping repairs all the while keeping a new GF happy stretches out these maintenance evolutions.

With 95k on FJR#1, I am debating removing the the calipers for *complete* overhaul, or just cleaning as well as I can, slapping new pads on and calling it good. I mean, the brakes worked fine before, right?

 

[twowheelnut]

I mean, the brakes worked fine before, right?

Apparently not.

 

[GunMD]

With 95k on FJR#1, I am debating removing the the calipers for *complete* overhaul, or just cleaning as well as I can, slapping new pads on and calling it good.

Be sure to purchase the Batman brake cleaning tool or it may turn out pretty ugly.

 

[beeroux]

Definitely get Batman. Spider man is a pussy and can't clean squat.

Skooter, I just read your Good Bad post for ( i think ) the first time. YOWZA!

Mine are no where near as bad, but interestingly enough, the INSIDE pads just like yours are wearing MUCH faster. My pads still have 30K on them, WC almost thought I should leave them in. I'm doing them cuz I'm there already.

As for complete re-build I'm THIS close to doing it. My guess is there is some hydraulic drag issue causing more pressure to reach the insides ( closer to the lines ) then the outsides. Maybe a good scrub and new seals can solve the uneven wear. Problem is, its about $100 for the front re-build parts.

Bummer.

Back to the Batcave.

GZ

 

[RED]

This thread has been extremely informative. Im happy to see that brake pads will last awhile. :clapping:

 

[Toecutter]

A canyon carver may have to worry after 20,000.

Mine don't look to make it to the next tire change, so I'm changing them now at 32,000 mi.

What, if anything, should I do to the rotors and/or to help bed them in?

 

[Constant Mesh]

I rotated the pads on the front calipers. The inside pads on both calipers were worn more than the outside pads. I took the left inside and installed it on the right outside. Left outside on the right inside. Etc. Don't know if this will equalize the wear but it will make the pads last longer. The direction of rotation for each pad is unchanged. Don't know if that's important or not.

 

[SkooterG]

I just watched GZ pull off his OEM brake pads and they were pretty worn, but not really done yet. (He has around 90K on the odo). As far as aftermarket replacements, I'm not real sure what to tell you...I do know that Spiegler rotors are expected to wear out within 25K miles.
GZ's brake cleaning device:

Hey George, did you remove the pistons from the caliper? If so, how did you get those mother$#@%&* things out? I am not replacing any seals/pistons due to cost, but though I would disassemble everything completely for a thorough cleaning. Cept I can't get the pistons out of the caliper?!?!?!

 

[dcarver]

I just watched GZ pull off his OEM brake pads and they were pretty worn, but not really done yet. (He has around 90K on the odo). As far as aftermarket replacements, I'm not real sure what to tell you...I do know that Spiegler rotors are expected to wear out within 25K miles.
GZ's brake cleaning device:

Hey George, did you remove the pistons from the caliper? If so, how did you get those mother$#@%&* things out? I am not replacing any seals/pistons due to cost, but though I would disassemble everything completely for a thorough cleaning. Cept I can't get the pistons out of the caliper?!?!?!

Uh, squeeze the front brake lever a few times, making sure the MC doesn't empty first? And if that doesn't work, if you already have the brake line disconnected, I use compressed air. Just be careful, they can pop out fast. Slow and easy is the key. Not done an FJR, but many other skoots/trucks this way. BTW, I've always had a more difficult time in the install process. New pistons in new seals = tight fit.

 

[SkooterG]

Hmmm......compressed air. That might work. But won't I encounter the same problem as if the calipers were installed with fluid it them, that being that once one of the pistons pops, how do I get the other three out?

 

[beeroux]

Skooty Skoot Skoot.

Remember: service manual sez that the seals should be replaced if you take the pistons out. Careful man. Full re-build ( seals and piss-tones ) kit is $155 w/ pistons, $95 without.

Heres how I got mine out.

Take the banjo bolt off each caliper, then remove caliper from fork.

Cut a 1/4" to 1/2" thick piece of plywood or whatever to the width of the calipers ( inside width ) enough to fit inside but completely cover the pistons.

Place board over one side of caliper pistons and GENTLY blow air into the banjo hole and the pistons will come right out. Flip caliper over, cover piston HOLES with wood, and repeat.

Easy peasy. Good luck.

BTW, my pistons were so gunked up and had a few nicks here and there that I decided to replace pistons and seals just for good measure. My calipers are currently completely naked, waiting for the goods from UM.

GZ

 

[GunMD]

I guess Batman aint yo' bitch after all, huh?

 

[ChrisW]

How long should the factory brakes be good for AND when replacing them, any suggestions versus the factory pads?
Thanks.

Paste.

Hey,

42K on the stock set. About an eighth left on the fronts, a little more in the rear. All worn very evenly.

I replaced with OEM pads. I've wasted to much money on hipe in the past. I was pleased with the feel and durability of the originals.

Oh, galfer steel lines too. Nice upgrade.