Barbarian Jumper Modification for Gen II bikes

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It's a done deal. Just for the record, mine was set at all 10's.

One little note: If the white plastic retainer doesn't want to go back in, check to make sure the other wires that you didn't move didn't slide up a bit.

 
It's a done deal. Just for the record, mine was set at all 10's.One little note: If the white plastic retainer doesn't want to go back in, check to make sure the other wires that you didn't move didn't slide up a bit.

Ya gotta jiggle it but it will seat back in there. Also may want to try twisting the wire a bit and pushing it in further. Had the same issue till trying this, then click. done.

Guess I will be figuring that out soon enough.
I am VERY curious as to your new MPG's. :huh:

Absolutely no effect on MPG over the long haul.

Bike is still running sweet.

 
1. Thanks for all who put this together for Gen II

2. There were a couple of photo captions on the Gen I writeup that showed a jumper resistor and (in a different photo) a jumper wire. This was called the Barbarian *Jumper* mod.

3. However, in the Gen I writeup, there was a lot of detail about getting the pin out, and swapping the wire from one hole to another, but essentially no writing about installing the jumper. Just those photos.

4. Now on the Gen II writeup we have no mention of jumpers between pins, just the swap. In a document that seems extremely thorough and well-done.

Questions:

A. Is "jumper" a misnomer?

B. Was there any jumpering on Gen I?

C. If there was jumpering on Gen I, why no text about it?

D. If there was no jumpering on Gen I, what are the two photos about?

E. If there is jumpering on Gen II, why isn't it in the writeup?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm eager to do this, but a bit paranoid about doing something dumb to the electronics.

Thanks to anyone who cares to clarify.

/hank watts

 
To Jon and Duff, MANY THANKS for the instructions and the link. I was thinking of doing this to my 07 1300AE and since the fog was so think I couldn't see the end of the driveway this morning I did it. Once done and the bike fully warmed up it sounded and rev'd so smooth in the garage. :yahoo: Weather dudes up here say almost 60 this afternoon so I'll get her out this afternoon to see what it's like on the road. For those thinking of doing this mod, it really is super easy if you just take your time and find all them little clips.

 
Very well documented...Thanks for putting this together. I've made a mental note on where to return to if I do this mod...

 
Much thanks for the well prepared instructions!

I'm understanding that this mod does not change anything but the ability to access the CO settings. Therefore fully reversible with no latent effects. Is this correct?

(Like Henry, I'm a little paranoid about doing this. Not my area of expertise!)

 
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I had the ECU on an 07 replaced under recall - the altitude thingy.

Can somebody confirm that the Barbarian jumper mod is still the same for the new replacement ECU's following this recall.

Thanks

 
I had the ECU on an 07 replaced under recall - the altitude thingy.Can somebody confirm that the Barbarian jumper mod is still the same for the new replacement ECU's following this recall.

Thanks
That was covered in previous posts, answer is YES, most people have been doing this mod AFTER getting a the recall ECU.

 
Still haven't gotten around to doing this but just had an interesting thought/question...

If you preform the mod, change the settings, then reverse the mod, does it revert to the original settings or are the new settings 'locked' in the memory?

Just curious... :unsure:

 
1. Thanks to everyone who put the procedures together for Gen II
2. There were a couple of photo captions on the Gen I writeup that showed a jumper resistor and (in a different photo) a jumper wire. This was called the Barbarian *Jumper* mod.

3. However, in the Gen I writeup, there was a lot of detail about getting the pin out, and swapping the wire from one hole to another, but essentially no writing about installing the jumper. Just those photos.

4. Now on the Gen II writeup we have no mention of jumpers between pins, just the swap. In a document that seems extremely thorough and well-done.

Questions:

A. Is "jumper" a misnomer?

B. Was there any jumpering on Gen I?

C. If there was jumpering on Gen I, why no text about it?

D. If there was no jumpering on Gen I, what are the two photos about?

E. If there is jumpering on Gen II, why isn't it in the writeup?
...If you preform the mod, change the settings, then reverse the mod, does it revert to the original settings or are the new settings 'locked' in the memory?
First, John from 11/08:

1. (yes, thanks to all for the Gen II instructions)

2. The early Gen I's had a Yellow/Red wire that was in a jumper configuration on the ECU connector. The picture from the Gen I ECU connector in the procedure makes it look like there are two different Y/R wires, but in fact the Y/R wire is a jumper. One end of the jumper was moved to enable the CO diAG screen. You can see the Y/R jumper in the ECU schematic below (item 24). Just above the ECU you can see the connector with the Y/R wire in pin location 25 & 27 and the plug in pin hole 29 (the X) (located bottom row, right end).

ECUConnector.jpg


3. The later Gen I's like my '04 did not have the Y/R wire at all. I sent pictures and instructions for H. Marc to post along with Torch and Barbarian's how-to. H. Marc only paraphrased my instructions and didn't include verbatim details. As there was no Y/R wire a jumper at all, a jumper had to be made then pushed into the holes at pin #25 & #29. Being a pioneer on later Gen I Barbarian Jumpers I chose to use a 22k resistor to ensure that no mater what the ECU would not be harmed. In the text that did not make it to the FJR1300 tech article I stated that it was OK to use a piece of wire in place of the resistor. The new wire would work better if it were stranded, and the ends should be stripped to a surprisingly long 1/2" to reach all the way into the female sockets in the ECU side connector. I additionally suggested tie-wrapping the jumper to adjacent wires to hold it in place in addition to the locking white clip that is part of the connector.

4. The Gen II does not have a jumper, only one wire that gets moved to enable the CO diAG screen. When the Y/R wire is placed in pin hole #25 the voltage on the Y/R wire tells the ECU to enable the CO screen.

A. The '03 had a jumper and it was called out correctly in the original how-to. The '04 did not have a jumper or wire and a jumper had to be fabricated.

B. The Y/R jumper already existed in the '03 (see # 2. above)

C. There is no jumper associated with the Gen 2 ECU, only a single wire to be moved.

D. Already explained about the jumper in # 4. above.

E. No jumper so no explanation.

==========================

FJRGuy:

The CO values are held in permanent memory in the ECU, once the values are set or changed the ECU will retain them even if the battery is disconnected. All the jumper wire or wire relocation does is enable the CO Setting Menu on the diAG screen. You could remove the jumper after altering the CO values and all would be OK. But, why remove the jumper, if it isn't hurting anything?

 
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I don't even own a FJR (yet), but this write up makes me want to go out and borrow one just to do this. Maybe one day once Y get the spider thing under control.

 
I don't even own a FJR (yet), but this write up makes me want to go out and borrow one just to do this. Maybe one day once Y get the spider thing under control.
There's modifications for that too...

Even more fun!

You're a tinkerer ain't ya?

Jump in!

:)

 
Just modified my '08 with the Barbarian Jumper over the weekend. Also, UA TBS per Fred. Reset original CO settings of 10 up 7 to 17. The difference is amazing! Great throttle response, smooth acceleration, idle, and cruising rpm. Don't know which did what, but TBS and BJM come highly recommended from this jackleg. The procedure was easy- great directions; thanks Jon et al.

 
Just modified my '08 with the Barbarian Jumper over the weekend. Also, UA TBS per Fred. Reset original CO settings of 10 up 7 to 17. The difference is amazing! Great throttle response, smooth acceleration, idle, and cruising rpm. Don't know which did what, but TBS and BJM come highly recommended from this jackleg. The procedure was easy- great directions; thanks Jon et al.
I think you should try setting the CO settings back to 10 to see how much difference the UA TBS made. In my opinion the UA TBS provides better results than changing the CO settings. Higher CO settings will also in result in lower fuel mileage, or at least it did on my '08. If you don't like the results try stepping up the CO settings 1 or 2 at a time instead of 7 all at once.

 
Did it; LOVE it!!

Thanks for the "Clicky" link.

All 4 of my settings were set at "10" as well. Is that pretty normal?
It seems that there is some variation. Haven't done it but have read about a number that were all 10's and others that seemd to vary quite a bit from one cyl to another. Don't know how they set it up at the factory - presumably by putting the exhaust on a meter and adjusting to get the "right" CO.

 
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