Battery Life

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About the worst thing you can do to an engine is to start it during storage and not get it thoroughly warm. Letting it sit and idle or just revving it up will NOT get it to operating temperature. Cold starting (even at room temperature) puts a lot of moisture and gasoline and other nasty byproducts of combustion into the oil where it stays until the oil is good and hot. You cannot get hot enough oil temp idling or free revving within reason to dry out the oil. Same for the exhaust system. Fills it full of water.

There is little rational for starting it occasionally. Sufficient lube stays on parts to carry them thru the storage.

Cranking the engine with the coil disconnected is also a bad idea. The greatest loads on the cam followers are at very low speeds...i.e...cranking. You can never crank fast enough to build good oil pressure to get lube to the upper end so all the time you are cranking you are depleting the residual oil at any wear interface and not replacing it.

Warm it up thoroughly, park it, change the oil and leave it alone until spring. PUt the battery on a tender or charge it gently occasionally and forget the idea of starting it occasionally if you REALLY care about it.

The nasty thing about getting moisture and gas and byproducts of combustion in the oil on cold starts and leaving it there during storage is that the fuel will have small amounts of sulfur in it. Put sulfur into the oil with moisture and gas and you end up with sulphuric acid which will etch alumnium and cause rust and corrosion. The oil has certain levels of anti-acid additives but they can be overwhelmed by repeated cold starts with little or no warm up. If you doubt this, check the acidity of the oil during storage as you do your starts. You will find the acid level increasing with time/starts.

I repeat, about the worst thing you can do to an engine is to cold start it in storage occasionally.

There is absolutely no reason on earth that a port fuel injected engine should be hard to start or require that much cranking after storage. Something is wrong. My bike does live the winter in a warm basement but there is no difference in the startup after storage or after an overnight soak. It starts immediately. I would suspect the gas in the tank first of all. I always empty my tank before storage and store it empty. In the spring it gets fresh gas and it starts immediately. Either empty the tank before storage and put fresh gas in or drain the tank in the spring if you must store it full (another old wive's tail worth killing) and put fresh fuel in it so it will start. You put a huge amount of wear on the cam and followers cranking an engine coming out of storage for long periods like that. Figure out what is wrong and correct it. BTW....Stabil does crap for storing fuel so if you think storing the tank full with stabil in it is sufficient it isn't. I like the empty tank from a safety standpoint (it is in my basement...) but it is the best way to be able to put fresh fuel in in the spring. Even if the fuel is not sour or degraded it will loose it's volitility from sitting that long...which makes it hard to start., especially with port fuel injection.

 
Ok, here is the story that I heard. Could be true or parts of it could be true. The reason the FJR battery costs so much is that it could fall out of a airplane and break open on hitting the ground and not cause any damage to the enivorment.

All the bad battery stuff stays in the matting material. Nothing leaks out.

The reason I heard that they do not last is that they are sealed from the manufacture so it may not be a fresh battery. As soon as they create the battery and it is not maintened it slowly goes south.

 
I have four street bikes and for many years have made it a practice to always replace a mc battery when it hits the three year point. No matter how well you care for the battery, my experience has been that it's impossible to know when a cell will fail and when it does, you're stranded, at least with most bikes, all of the Japanese bikes so far as I know. All it takes is the experience of having a battery fail in a National Park 120 miles from the nearest battery source to make a believer of ya. I've never had a mc battery failure in a battery less than three years old. For $50-$70 every three years, I consider it cheap insurance.

I don't use battery tenders on any of my bikes. I either ride them for at least 20-30 minutes every 7-10 days or start them up and run them until they get hot enough that the cooling fan kicks on. I've never had a problem with any kind of moisture damage, and my Nighthawk has in excess of 100K miles and my GL1200 is over 166K miles. My '04 FJR will hit the three year point this Fall and I'll replace the battery. I usually buy the Champion brand mc batteries sold by Sam's Club but I'm not sure they carry one for the FJR so I'll probably go with the Westco. I've never had a single problem with the Champion batteries, either in my bikes, cars or trucks.

Just my experience with around 30-35 bikes since I started street riding at age 14 a little better than 40 years ago.

Lee in the Mountains of Northern California

 
Thanks Leebunyard, for your information on how you care for your bike in the winter time.

What you do is what I would do and have done.

Your information points to the information about start,stop, warm-up,moisture, being accumulated seems to not have must merit, the information about cold start-ups is more mythical than truth. I rest my case.

Normal operating temperature is normal operating whether in the winter or summer, to many myths are believed and not enough factual information with test data to back it up.

Why do we always approach a problem with a negative attitude instead of one that is postive? That's because, that is how we are taught. And then it follows us for the rest of our careers.

 
2004 FJR received August 2003. Battery died over this Winter and won't hold a charge. So after 2 1/2 years replaced with the Westco this weekend (the Yusa was twice as much $). Did note that the original battery didn't have a brand name on it.

2001 Shadow came with a Yusa battery and lasted 4 1/2 years before I changed it. It was still starting fine. Replaced with Yusa battery. Treated both bikes the same....meaning stored in cold detached garage and started up a couple of times over Winter after heating up garage.

 
I agree with what Jestal said, and I do it all the time.

One last ride, park the bike, change the oil etc and let it sit for 5 months.

I take the battery out and put it on a Yuasa charger (3rd one down - many on here also use it).

Once a month I plug it in for 3 days. My garage is not heated so this sits in a warm basement.

Do not touch the bike until spring. I either drain the tank and remove it or fog it (good tip I got from Jestal) and leave it.

Every spring the FJR (and other things) starts up right away no problems like it sat for 1 hour.

 
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You've got to remember normal operating temperature refers to the engine oil, not the coolant temperature. If you go, even to four bars, your oil may still not be hot enough to burn off corrosive moisture in the crankcase. This is not a myth; unburned sulfur and moisture can create sulfuric acid and will eventually do your engine harm.

+1 to what Jestal said. (Why do you think that all car manufacturers list short trips as severe duty under their maintenance recommendations.)

 
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'03 picked up July 21, 02. Battery still going. After reading this thread I put it on the battery tender and the green light ok'd full charge in a couple hours. It has been mostly sitting because of the tick repair or waiting to do the repair. Knock on wood.

 
Same experience as Coach but mine was on battery tender 4 straight months.

Dealer took 5 months but sent battery back and finally recd Yam approval for warranty replacement. In the mean time, I'd spent my $110!

George

 
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