The battery in my '07 also went 10 yrs, about 95K miles. I'd go ahead and replace it now.
Battery Of Choice
- Thread starter harpo
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C&C
Well-known member
Ross, if you're planning on keeping your '07 for a while, I'd change it out for peace of mind (you still have bragging rights that your battery lasted as long as it did).
RossKean
Well-known member
I did change mine out eventually (after ten years) as reserve capacity was noticeably low - even though it would crank the engine with authority. No issues with high self-discharge rate, either. I didn't want to risk being stranded somewhere after forgetting to switch off the ignition for 5 minutes after I killed the engine with the kill switch or sidestand. I sold the 2007 bike last year with a year-old Yuasa replacement battery.
I still have the old battery in the garage to have as an emergency spare in the unlikely (but possible) event of catastrophic failure of the OEM battery in my 2011. While the 2011 battery is eight years old, it does not have nearly the 170,000 miles that the old one had. That said, it doesn't seem to be as lively as I might like - could be a function of battery or starter. I will keep an eye on this one and change it before it becomes a problem. I carry a portable lithium ion jump starter when on trips - just in case...
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s.ga.rider
Well-known member
My oem battery just died on my 14 after 33k miles. I replaced it with a mottobatt. Cant comment on it yet since its been in for a week but it had good reviews on line.
As for my $.02, I have always used a battery tender on my motorsickles. I have never had to replace a battery. To clarify, I have never had any motorsickle more than 8 years.
As for my us$0.02 for the first 8 yrs I never once used a battery tender and parked my bike in an unheated shed for 3-4 months every winter. It never once failed to start in the spring. It wasn't until yr 9 when I used a battery tender for the first time that my battery started going south and failed completely the next yr.
IMNSHO if you want a battery to last keep the battery tender as far away as possible.
SkooterG
Purveyor of Crooked Facts
IMNSHO your situation was an anomoly. The science and tech supports using a *quality* battery maintainer. I use them regularly to keep my batteries long lasting.
I suspect your 8 year old battery would have failed had you not used a tender. I have a 2011 second car I bought new and rarely drive. After two years and only 1400 miles on the car the battery would not start the car. I charged up the battery and thereafter used a tender. The car now starts right up and if it is parked away from home over night it will start up with no problem.
If you have auto batteries with accessible cells you need to ensure the cells are maintained at proper level with distilled water. Very important!! OEM FJR batteries are sealed so you do not have that option.
RossKean
Well-known member
Mine must also be an anomaly at 175,000 miles and 10+ years! Self-discharge rate for a healthy AGM battery amounts to a few percent per month. If the electrical system on your FJR is working as it should, parasitic draw (clock, immobilizer if you have one and minimal computer function) is very small - measurable in microamps. In a couple of weeks, the battery should be down far less than 10% from fully charged from self-discharge and parasitic draw. Even a modest ride will restore that much.
Unless you have aftermarket electronic bits that are drawing some power with the ignition off or unless you have a battery that has an internal "soft" short, there should be no need to use a battery tender for anything less than a month - I have gone four months and still had lots left to start the bike. Measured parasitic drain and industry-established performance characteristics for good quality AGMs support my position!
Generally for extended winter storage, I will disconnect the battery ground wire but have not always done so. A properly functioning tender that has an accurately regulated float voltage shouldn't hurt a battery but shouldn't really be needed for most people - at least not on FJRs.
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FJRPittsburgh
Rally Addict
Buy this battery. You won't be disappointed and you'll save a ton. You're welcome.
https://www.batterysharks.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Motorcycle&Search=yamaha+FJR&Search=&Search=
https://www.batterysharks.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Motorcycle&Search=yamaha+FJR&Search=&Search=
RossKean
Well-known member
It appears to meet the requirements. I had a look at the "reviews" on-line but they appear to be for the company rather than the specific product.
In any case, the internet in general doesn't seem to hate the company and the prices are certainly excellent ($42.50 + shipping). Currently out-of-stock on the website. For me, it might depend upon if I was buying a battery for a bike I hoped to keep for a half dozen years or more vs one that I expected to sell/trade within 2 to 3 years.
Not saying that the Batteryshark product isn't very good, just that my experience with Yuasa has been so great.
I'm using a WestCo battery my local Honda dealer had on the shelf for $68. It's on its 2nd year, stored in an unheated carport and shed from October until March with no battery tender attached and it fired right up.
garyahouse
newbs need the forum
Just ordered one of these. Thanks for the referral. Just under 41 bucks after shipping was added. What a price. Now the question will be, how long will it last and how well will it perform? Will find out soon enough.
RossKean,
I have always appreciated your knowledge and suggestions. I have two non-OEM accessories on my bike both attached directly to the battery. Pig tail for the battery tender and another pig tail for my GPS. Since these are not switched are they a parasitic drain when the bike in parked? Keep in mind, I remove the GPS when the bike is parked. Appreciate you advice.
Art
Technically, yes. But if nothing is connected to the battery tender plug and the gps is removed then the drain is negligible. I can tell you I have and do the same as you and after 3 weeks of sitting the bike will start normally.
RossKean
Well-known member
Art, as long as there is nothing connected to the battery tender pigtail or the GPS cradle then these are open circuits and there is NO incremental parasitic current draw. I have the same on my bike plus a heated gear outlet, fuzeblock, trailer electrical harness and wiring for Clearwater lights. The heated gear outlet, GPS and trailer stuff are on the switched side of the fuzeblock (relay triggered by taillight). Battery pigtail is on the unswitched side of the fuzeblock. Clearwater lights go directly to the battery - relay triggered by headlight. Parasitic draw is no higher than with nothing connected to the battery.
If you want to be sure or convince yourself that the parasitic draw of the FJR is indeed very low, then try the following. Place an ammeter lead on the battery negative terminal with the ignition switch off. Place the other ammeter lead on a solid chassis ground point (or on the negative lead itself). While maintaining these contacts, disconnect the battery ground strap from the battery so the circuit is completed through the ammeter. Because of the "immobilizer", my Canadian model FJR should have a slightly higher parasitic draw than a US bike. Have a read of the following post by mcatrophy.
Note: In addition to parasitic draw, the need for a battery tender is dependent upon the battery's self-discharge rate when not connected to anything. In the old days, this was fairly high with conventional wet lead-acid batteries. Maybe as much as several percent of full charge per week. A modern AGM like the OEM battery that is in good condition should have a self-discharge rate less than a couple percent per month. Self-discharge rate will depend a bit on temperature (better cool than hot) and battery condition. Over time as the battery ages, self-discharge rate may change. Batteries can develop a "soft short" and be unable to hold a charge more than a few days but this marks end-of-life - total failure is in the near future. More common failure mode for a well designed and well manufactured battery is gradual degradation of capacity and cranking amps. Significantly reduced reserve capacity is what prompted me to replace my OEM Yuasa after 10 years and approx. 170,000 miles (on my '07). Deep discharge, overcharge and heat are the biggest killers of motorcycle batteries.
Many thanks to all for the succinct answer to my question. Hope you all had a nice Thanksgiving.
RichDoyle
Well-known member
The fact that a battery starts the bike is no real guarantee it's still in good shape. Several (OK, many) years ago, in my ST1100 on a summer day:
1. Started the bike fine in my carport.
2. After waiting at the Clinton Ferry dock, started it fine to board the ferry.
3. Upon docking the ferry at Mukilteo, started OK to leave the ferry - did seem slightly weak, but, hey, the bike started.
4. Bike died while driving in downtown Seattle. Battery dead.
I figured the alternator failed. Nope, replacing the 7-year-old OEM Yuasa AGM battery cured the problem.
1. Started the bike fine in my carport.
2. After waiting at the Clinton Ferry dock, started it fine to board the ferry.
3. Upon docking the ferry at Mukilteo, started OK to leave the ferry - did seem slightly weak, but, hey, the bike started.
4. Bike died while driving in downtown Seattle. Battery dead.
I figured the alternator failed. Nope, replacing the 7-year-old OEM Yuasa AGM battery cured the problem.
