Battery relocation on a GEN2

[HaulinAshe]

Those are all good points and I will be expanding its protection. The post is actually recessed from the edge of the battery so it's protected from hitting anywhere on the frame, especially strapped down the way it is with the factory rubber strap. Having said that, I later fitted the factory lead cover on it and will probably build a plastic corner that encompasses the whole area.

And if I'm in a crash that sends the battery flying, I'm sure I'm already off the bike too

Yeah, I know the post is recessed, but with the large ring connector and bolt head, the bolt is bound to protrude above the battery surface. I'm mostly worried about the battery going cockeyed and somehow managing to do the seemingly impossible. But like I said, I'm a worrier who's seen some truly bizarre **** happen to aircraft (just before they go up in smoke).

Adding some type of "cap" to the positive post will help me sleep at night and not worry about you so much. Thanks!!!

Now what we need is one of our frustrated engineers to come along and calculate exactly how much effect this change in c.g. will have on the bike. I want to know exactly how many suspension clicks and how much tire pressure change to make should I decide to take on this project.

 

[HaulinAshe]

BTW, I failed to compliment your most excellent wiring quality. You must do car audio work. Materials look familiar.

A ground spider on your negative lead would be /BeginAhhnoldVoice one ugly mutha. /EndAhhnoldVoice

 

[carlson_mn]

Yes, all kidding aside you are right. It may be a week or so but I'll post up pics of my insulation when I've finalized the project and let me know what you think.

And, of course, I'll give a ride report. I had no real complaints with the FJR's handling ( I also ride pretty hard) or weight but me thinks moving this decent amount of weight from dash level on the edge of the bike to right under my *** is going to result in nothing but positives. And maybe easier wheelies...

 

[RadioHowie]

Great idea! And your wiring is impeccable.....but -- (you knew there had to be a "but")

That is NOT a good engine ground. That particular engine mount is a long bolt that goes completely through the motor without actually tightening down ON the motor. You've created a terrific frame ground, but since the original ground is mounted directly to the motor, you should really consider finding a good mounting point on the motor itself for your new ground.

As it is, the motor is simply sitting on a very long bolt that is bolted to the frame. It's not really an ideal "engine" ground.

I would suggest one of the top motor mounts on either side of the engine bay:

 

[majicmaker]

BTW, I failed to compliment your most excellent wiring quality. You must do car audio work. Materials look familiar.

A ground spider on your negative lead would be /BeginAhhnoldVoice one ugly mutha. /EndAhhnoldVoice

I love reading All you Electrical GURUs go at it! :clapping: I'm and Electrical ******. When I need something done. I'll Call Just Roy OR Maybe Wfooshie!

He's closer and I can Feed him his Favorite Beer and his Family All the Sonny's Ribs they can Eat. I'll do All the Work While he Points his Fingers!

 

[HotRodZilla]

I was a little (ok, a lot) skeptical at first, but that looks pretty sweet. However, like Majicmaker, I'm an electrical *****, so I don't think I'll be messing around with mine any time soon. I guess unless one needs the space for ballasts, etc, there may be no point.

Either way...Nice work.

 

[carlson_mn]

Great idea! And your wiring is impeccable.....but -- (you knew there had to be a "but")

I would suggest one of the top motor mounts on either side of the engine bay:

Thanks. I was hoping to find a better actual engine bolt near the rear but didn't spot anything very appealing other than tiny engine case bolts. I'm sure there's a level of resistance on the spot I have it at now. I will move it to the spot you mentioned as long as I can get to it.

And for those that haven't taken a close look at the stock wiring, here's a pic of the stock ground cable that runs from engine to your battery - black wire with blue taping.

And this is the starter relay that the positive lead of the batter runs directly to (larger wire is original wire) and the smaller red wire goes to the 50amp main fuse forward of the battery. My new main cable is attached at this post but not pictured.

 

[fljab]

I really like this idea and have been following the thread.

I'm not really concerned about balance as much as accessibility to the battery as I have a bunch of farkles/mods and getting that cover off and back on is a pain on the side of the road.

I was thinking of mod'ing the battery panel to add a hinge of some sort so I can just swing it up for access, but I need to look at all you've done and think about my option as well.

Great work by the way!

 

[mferriter]

So what are you going to do with the space where your battery used to be? Any plans for it?

 

[ionbeam]

...This will give me all sorts of room up front for ballasts, relays, etc inside the battery box. I'll be back with pics in the next couple days!

So what are you going to do with the space where your battery used to be? Any plans for it?

 

[carlson_mn]

I really like this idea and have been following the thread.

I'm not really concerned about balance as much as accessibility to the battery as I have a bunch of farkles/mods and getting that cover off and back on is a pain on the side of the road.

I was thinking of mod'ing the battery panel to add a hinge of some sort so I can just swing it up for access, but I need to look at all you've done and think about my option as well.

Great work by the way!

Well, it's pretty easy now to access and run cables to the battery, and keep a fuse block if you wanted to, so I could see that perk.

So what are you going to do with the space where your battery used to be? Any plans for it?

small handgun and smuggling illicit stuff too. Thanks Ion

 

[fljab]

I really like this idea and have been following the thread.

I'm not really concerned about balance as much as accessibility to the battery as I have a bunch of farkles/mods and getting that cover off and back on is a pain on the side of the road.

I was thinking of mod'ing the battery panel to add a hinge of some sort so I can just swing it up for access, but I need to look at all you've done and think about my option as well.

Great work by the way!

Well, it's pretty easy now to access and run cables to the battery, and keep a fuse block if you wanted to, so I could see that perk.

Trust me, mine is not. I have a dash shelf which the bottom support bolts into the forward right battery cover insert. Last time - in the garage - that little bugger fell off when I was trying to "stab" it and had to disassemble some of the tupperware to find it.

On top of that I have alot more wires headed up there - both individual neg wires I connect to a circuit board on top of the battery, and a relay controlled pos circuit board/connector for lot so things.

I have aux lights (4 sets), a dash light, V1, J&M, Zumo 550, and some things I'm not thinking of right now. I do have a fuzeblock in the back, but of course the feed for that comes off the front.

So, getting the cover on can be a trick and took me ~30 minutes the last time, thus the hinge idea. You know, riding long distances really does give you way too much time to think..............

Go here - ~ halfway down the page: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=135210&st=0

I've changed some things since these pics, but basics are the same.

 

[carlson_mn]

Well, the HID lights that I got suck. They have a horrible pattern and cutoff, puts light both down on the road and up towards the trees. Funny thing is, I ordered a set from the same company for my 04 3 years ago and those had an awesome cutoff and pattern, but they have changed their bulbs since that time. These will be returned, going to just go back to the Halogens for the time being, nothing wrong with them and not sure if it's the different headlight housings on the Gen2 or not but don't really want to mess with it again.

With no need for room for the ballasts I may throw the battery back up to the stock location, but I'll decide on that after I find out if the bike handles any better with it under the seat.

 

[Donal]

You could always stick a cruise control in there

Don