Battery

[jeff_connors]

Hello---I have an 09 AE. Owned it less than 5 months. I have ridden it locally since then but no long trips. It has 78k. I went to start it and got a click, click, click. Put it on the trickle charger several days. Output is 12.6V about. Once it did turn over but mainly clicks. Records show last battery was 7 years ago if accurate. In looking for another battery, ebay has one for the A but said incompatible with the AE. Does the AE really need a special battery? I would think both models would have the same compartment size and power requirements(?) Thanks for the help.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/281972527701

 

[Ignacio]

I'd be skeptical of an off-brand on eBay like that...especially expecting they should be a source to determine fitment. If you really want to know, go to a genuine Yamaha parts website and look at the fiche for the specific part numbers of the AE and compare with non AEs. That said, I don't think the AE ever required a special battery.

I'd also not buy a battery like this off eBay and stick to something OEM, Yuasa, Shorai (if you'd also want to consider lithium), and/or review threads on the forum about battery replacements like this one .

 

[RossKean]

AE should not require a different battery. I agree with Ignacio with respect to choosing a battery that has been proven to provide good service for the FJR.

The battery in my 2011 is the OEM Yuasa - eleven years and 100,000 miles so far. I got 10 years and 160,000+ miles on the OEM on my 2007 and replaced that one with another Yuasa. I would certainly spend the extra money if I had any intention of keeping the bike.

Pros and cons of replacement batteries have been discussed many times. Some people have had problems with lithium batteries in colder climates.

Oh, make sure battery terminals are clean and tight before you assume that the battery is faulty.

 

[owsley]

I don’t believe the AE takes a different battery, I have replaced one in the past, been a while.
On my ‘13, bought one from an auto parts place, too big in size to fit. I had to go to Batteries Plus store that had the correct size in stock. Recommend taking the old battery to compare size if buying locally.

 

[Mr_Canoehead]

The parts fiche shows the same battery for AE and A. Part GT1-4B400-00-00

I wouldn't buy a battery that says, "Variety of Selection" on the case.



My FJR is very sensitive to battery condition. I have had a couple of Yuasa batteries where the bike has run like crap when the battery gets tired (mostly a severe off idle stumble). I had a Shorai on the shelf (it was the recommended size for my BMW but wouldn't reliably crank the bike when cold). In the FJR, it's been a champ - starts great hot or cold, runs great (no stumble) and has been in there for 5 years now (after sitting on the shelf for 5 years). It is one size larger than Shorai recommends for the FJR but it still has to be padded in the battery box and is much lighter than the Yuasa.

I have also had great results with the Earthex batteries in my KTM and BMW. The KTM is notoriously hard to crank and the stock battery always struggled. The Earthex spins it over effortlessly. If the Shorai dies, I'll definitely go to an Earthex on the FJR.

TL/DR: my recommendation is to avoid a generic battery. It's hard to beat Yuasa for quality/$. If you can, spend the extra money for a Shorai but go one size larger than they recommend.

 

[Sunnyorlando]

I'm feeling that after considering other possible causes to a weak crank and not finding any, it's time for my battery to be replaced. Though I normally wouldn't think so after just 4 yrs. for a maintained, regularly used and garage kept bike/battery, this is Florida the-battery-killing-state. This OEM is showing weakness on initial crank - cold or OT. In Florida it seems like car batteries need to be replaced every 3~4 yrs no matter how good of a battery you buy.
When I search for batteries for the FJR,
I've noticed the variations in physical sizes available, and I know it's a tight fit in the battery compartment.
This is and ’18 and I'd like to hear some recommendations for a sure fit.

Thanks!

 

[RossKean]

I'm feeling that after considering other possible causes to a weak crank and not finding any, it's time for my battery to be replaced.

I would have it load tested, just to make sure. If the battery checks out, you might want to verify that the starter isn't trying to draw too much current - use a DC clamp-on ammeter. Should be less than 80 amps or so.

With respect to new batteries, you need to decide whether you want AGM like the original or a lithium battery. As far as AGM, I am a fan of the Yuasa batteries, even if they cost a bit more than some others. Currently 12 years and 100,000 miles on the OEM in my 2011 although it is on its way out. (Never used a battery tender - just a top-up slow charge every couple of times during the off-season (Dec to March).

Regarding Lithium, I don't have any experience and probably wouldn't choose one in our cooler climate.

 

[Dan Cooper]

I would have it load tested, just to make sure. If the battery checks out, you might want to verify that the starter isn't trying to draw too much current - use a DC clamp-on ammeter. Should be less than 80 amps or so.

With respect to new batteries, you need to decide whether you want AGM like the original or a lithium battery. As far as AGM, I am a fan of the Yuasa batteries, even if they cost a bit more than some others. Currently 12 years and 100,000 miles on the OEM in my 2011 although it is on its way out. (Never used a battery tender - just a top-up slow charge every couple of times during the off-season (Dec to March).

Regarding Lithium, I don't have any experience and probably wouldn't choose one in our cooler climate.

Starter load should definitely be way less than 80 Amps draw. Under normal circumstances the starter shouldn't draw more than 20- 25 amps or so.

I once had an '05 that started having similar symptoms at about 85K miles. Sometimes the starter would turn slow when hot, and sometimes even after a longer stop when the engine was merely warm, and even sometimes when cold if it spun more than 5 - 6 seconds. Gave me a scare one time when about 1000 miles from home. Went straight to a battery shop and got a new battery installed. Problem was back the next day.
Finally removed the starter and took it to a starter / generator shop (those are getting harder to find these days) were he put it on the test bench and spun it. At first the starter drew about 20 amps, but after about 5 - 6 seconds it jumped up to about 75 amp draw. No scooter battery can supply that much current. He disassembled the starter and found the bearings were bone dry, everything else was good. Just took a few seconds spinning to heat up the bearings and seize the armature.
After a little cleaning and lubing the bearings, the starter would spin indefinitely drawing only about 20 amps. Cost about $40. Put the starter back in the scooter and never had any more trouble until the day I sold it with 115K miles.


Not saying that's the problem for you.

Just relating my experience that I thought was battery trouble, that was definitely an out of the ordinary problem.


YMMV

dan

 

[RossKean]

Starter load should definitely be way less than 80 Amps draw. Under normal circumstances the starter shouldn't draw more than 20- 25 amps or so.

I agree that 80 amps is way too high but wouldn't be astonished to see 40 amps. Unloaded, even 25 is too high but turning over a cold engine, I might expect a bit more than that. (80 tells me that the starter is definitely FUBAR but perhaps I should use a lower number 50 to 60?...) I have heard reports of over 100 amp draw!

A Yuasa YT14B-BS is the standard replacement. It is a 12 ampere-hour battery rated for 210 CCA so it should be able to supply 80 amps for a time without falling on its face - assuming it is in decent condition. This is why a new battery sometimes provides a temporary "fix" for a bad starter.

From what I have seen from failed FJR starters, the culprit is often the seal which allows oil to get in and mess up the brushes and commutator. Haven't heard of a dry bearing problem but that certainly a possible point of failure.

 

[Bruce Ente]

At about 150,000 miles my 2005 was no longer starting easily and shortly thereafter it would barely crank the engine. Replaced the starter motor and immediately went back to instantaneous starting at the touch of the switch. Happy bike, happy rider!

 

[Sunnyorlando]

Thank all... I will see about removing and testing the starter and report back.
This will be the first time, other than the 2nd gear issue, that I have to touch this engine.

I'll be looking for starter removal info.

 

[RossKean]

Thank all... I will see about removing and testing the starter and report back.

The starter may be tested without the considerable hassle of removing it. Use a DC clamp-on ammeter on the battery positive lead while starting.
Caution, DC clamp-on meters are less common than AC clamp-ons so make sure you have the right one...

If starting current is high, you will still need to access the starter. There is a small chance that a high current draw could be due to a bad starter solenoid/relay.

 

[Road_Runner]

Thank all... I will see about removing and testing the starter and report back.
This will be the first time, other than the 2nd gear issue, that I have to touch this engine.

I'll be looking for starter removal info.

You state that you think that the battery is 7 years old. I personally would rule out the battery before testing the starter. Most any auto parts store can load test it for you - for free. I would wager that the battery is the issue. If so, I will state for good reason what others have said.... Please consider purchasing a quality battery. I just purchased my FJR, and the battery was kaput. Got the proper Yuasa for $111 on Amazon.

 

[RossKean]

You state that you think that the battery is 7 years old. I personally would rule out the battery before testing the starter. Most any auto parts store can load test it for you - for free. I would wager that the battery is the issue. If so, I will state for good reason what others have said.... Please consider purchasing a quality battery. I just purchased my FJR, and the battery was kaput. Got the proper Yuasa for $111 on Amazon.

The OP stated he thought the battery was likely 7 years old. You are replying to Sunnyorlando...
Sunnyorlando has a 2018 so, although not as old, it is still worth getting it load tested before messing with the starter.

 

[Road_Runner]

The OP stated he thought the battery was likely 7 years old. You are replying to Sunnyorlando...
Sunnyorlando has a 2018 so, although not as old, it is still worth getting it load tested before messing with the starter.

Yep, my mistake I wasn't seeing two different issues.

 

[one Wolf]

Check your local O'Reilly or AutoZone. They probably have an AGM battery and will check your old one. Be sure to compare the physical size of the new one vs. the old one. They are a tight fit. You'll be back on the road in no time.

 

[Sunnyorlando]

The starter may be tested without the considerable hassle of removing it. Use a DC clamp-on ammeter on the battery positive lead while starting.
Caution, DC clamp-on meters are less common than AC clamp-ons so make sure you have the right one...

If starting current is high, you will still need to access the starter. There is a small chance that a high current draw could be due to a bad starter solenoid/relay.

Thanks - I was looking at the bike for the starter acccess - and since I've yet have to dig too deep into this bike, I don't see how to get to it without side faring removals - It appears I may have to remove the fairing(s) - L or R? While I'm perfectly capable of a full disassebly if needed, I really don't want to disassemble more than I need to for testing the starter - is there any info here to assist with this?