For a good dose of twisties go to Balfour, across the ferry and head down to Creston and back across the Creston-Salmo highway. Nice ride! The ferry guys are usually pretty good about getting the bikes off of the ferry at Kooteny Bay first to get them ahead of all the slow traffic.
Rode pretty much all the Kootenay area a few years ago, and was told taking the ferry, etc. as you say is NOT to be missed if you're in the area. Ive done the Creston-Salmo another way and can vouch for that. So this year, I'm definitely putting the ferry ride on the list!
Small aside, I was running 130+(km) on the Creston-Salmo and a young RCMP guy pulls me over. He commented on all my ATGATT, I admitted my guilt, and he says in mid-conversation he wasn't going to give me a ticket just wanted to slow me down. I said I had lots of time really and then we chatted about motorcycling for 15 minutes..... he took off.... eventually, as we approached the next town, I find myself doing 120+ and catching up.... he flashed on all his lights whle I was some distance behind and kept on going.... slow down you dummy!! I did.