Bent Gear Shifter

[BBIII]

I just missed it with my front tyre, but I ran over a huge piece of truck tire on the freeway and it bent my shifter so bad that after I slowed down I found there was no room for my toe to shift up. I kicked the shifter with the heel of my boot so I could get it home and then banged on it with a hammer so it works properly (I'm kinda lacking in tools that have more finesse). I'm waiting for the $125.00 replacement part from Yamaha. Anyone ever had to change this yet? any traps?

 

[FJRocket]

It's easy peasy.

Holey Cow, $125? YIKES! Should emailed Gary. That sounds awefully high. You have to pay intergalactic shipping and VAT on top of that?

 

[BBIII]

It's easy peasy.
Holey Cow, $125? YIKES!  Should emailed Gary. That sounds awefully high. You have to pay intergalactic shipping and VAT on top of that?

Yeah, well I got it from the dealer in Folsom (which is where the Intel company sends you when they shut down the local office, so nothing is cheap) AND I had them overnight ship it to me in case my boot & hammer did a catastrophic number on the lever. I'm also working nights, so that's my excuse and I'm stickin with it. Who is Gary ?

 

[radman]

Who is Gary ?

Just goes to show how badly we need a preferred merchants corner here.

https://vmaxoutlaw.com/university_motors.htm

 

[JREW]

I'm waiting for the $125.00 replacement part from Yamaha.  Anyone ever had to change this yet? any traps?

Wasn't sure about changing it, so I went and took a look at my bike. Seems a little complicated (a number of parts to remove) and I would be careful about the correct torque when putting it all back together. It goes from 7.2 to 45 lbs depending on the bolts. The upper two are 20 lbs, the lower 2 are 45 lbs the single bolt in the middle is 35 lbs and the very top one is 7.2 lbs, but that one you may not have to remove. It seems to me the hard part is going to be paying for it!!

 

[BBIII]

Where did you get all those tourqe settings?

 

[weekend rider]

BBIII if I may suggest a mechanics shop manual would be in order for you to purchase for your bike. That way you will have a whole lot of information at your finger tips so you can put your trusty fjr back together when things go wrong. Cost depends on the dealer mine 65.00 from woodland cycle woodland ca. That is where I bought mine would not own a bike with out a manual. Here is a suggestion take your old shifter and practice straighting it out, eccept i wuld use a press and a lot of tlc so you do not break it, you may need it again in the future.

:assasin: :assasin: :assasin:

 

[radman]

It's easily disassembled, I do mine a couple times a year to lube the pivot shaft and the heim joints. I suppose you could try to apply torque values to it all, I never have, and it has worked perfectly and never come apart, nor have I stripped it. Sometimes tight is good enough. The most difficult part is, I suppose, making sure the main pivot is spaced and assembled correctly so that there is no binding. There is a spring wave washer, as well as several flat washers, that must be installed correctly-be aware of the way the stack is on disassembly and you'll be fine. A few drops of loctite on the pivot screw will keep it from vibrating apart. Use a good quality grease (Mobil1 on Frank) on the pivot, and on the heim joints after a thorough cleaning with brake clean (use no solvent, including carb clean, that might destroy the rubber boots) and you'll be good to go. The 2001 R1 shift arm (the lever off the shift shaft) is a real plus on the Feej-nicely shortens shift lever travel without being so short it binds the shaft or makes engagment difficult. Part number is- 5JJ-18112-00-00

 

[BBIII]

BBIII if I may suggest a mechanics shop manual would be in order for you to purchase for your bike. That way you will have a whole lot of information at your finger tips so you can put your trusty fjr back together when things go wrong. Cost depends on the dealer mine 65.00 from woodland cycle woodland ca. That is where I bought mine would not own a bike with out a manual. Here is a suggestion take your old shifter and practice straighting it out, eccept i wuld use a press and a lot of tlc so you do not break it, you may need it again in the future.
:assasin: :assasin: :assasin:

I see there are shop manuals on CD on ebay. I guess I could take my laptop to the garage and use some kind of film for the keyboard and an unused mouse so I can view the manual at 200%. My eyes don't focus that well anymore since I got Lasik in one eye so I can see far away again. The only part about getting older that is good is the insurance costs are lower.

 

[FJRMGM]

$125 for the shift lever sounds about right. Bent my brake lever on a low-speed fall to the ground and the discount price on it was $65...

 

[meosborn]

I see there are shop manuals on CD on ebay.

Not sure about the legality of those. I guess it is really up to your personal feelings about copyright violation. My suggestion is to just get the full manual unless you can find a CD that was made legitimately. Give Guru Glen a call at FJRgoodies.com

Link to FJRgoodies.com

You can e-mail through the "Contact Us" page or look for the number, which is listed on a number of the pages, and call Guru Glen.

Good luck.

Mark

P.S. I would also recommend going to the R1 shifter.

 

[radman]

I bought the Big Book from Yami, and am glad I did. Not the most informative manual out there, but still damn handy to have next to me as I dig into Franks innards....

 

[Tilly]

Hey BBIII, I got my Yamaha factory service manual from University Motors who discounts the suggested $60 down to $43.70 + $4 S&H, so for $47.70 you get the manual to your door via snail mail. I've also got the pdf version; you can have if you want it. I can bring it to work the next time you're on dayshift. BTW, I'm glad to see you're posting on your time and not company time.

Oh, and you can borrow the printed version if you want, just don't let your cats do their thing on it. :no:

 

[Toecutter]

Gary McCoy at University Motors 866-551-6478

You'll also need to round up a T-50 Torx bit to pull the shifter cover. It's easy after that.

 

[petey]

@ radman, you may consider turning the shift arm the other way, so you can bolt it and have the rubber boot on the outside.

Just a thought.

 

[radman]

I have it that way on purpose. It keeps the rod in line, vs angled out, and it just clears the mount. I've yet to have any trouble with the boot either way, it's well packed with grease.

 

[throttlejockeyTJ]

With a hammer and vice yo should be able to straiten it pretty good. IMHO $125 is highway robbery! TJ

 

[BBIII]

Hey BBIII, I got my Yamaha factory service manual from University Motors who discounts the suggested $60 down to $43.70 + $4 S&H, so for $47.70 you get the manual to your door via snail mail. I've also got the pdf version; you can have if you want it. I can bring it to work the next time you're on dayshift. BTW, I'm glad to see you're posting on your time and not company time. Oh, and you can borrow the printed version if you want, just don't let your cats do their thing on it. :no:

Cool, yeah I'll take the PDF version. Can you leave it in my inbox, I have another set of nites starting wednesday.

 

[snowmonkey]

  I'm waiting for the $125.00 replacement part from Yamaha.

Harley-Davidson sells a chrome plated shifter lever for $29.99. Maybe you can modify one to fit your FJR.