Best new technique from TWN

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Where are the dirtbike riders?

Trailbraking is not a new idea. And if it is new to anyone on this Forum --- please sell your bike!!!

 
What you tryin to say there, stiltz? I know I'm an idiot but, I also know I'm not a motorcycle racer.

 
Trail braking; that is what they call it. And yes, it works great at parking lot speeds when counterweighting a turn as well as high speed cornering during the lean-n-press.
Actually no, thats not trail braking.

From Wikipedia:

Trail braking is a motorcycle riding and driving technique where the brakes are used beyond the entrance to a turn and are gradually released up to the point of apex.

Wikipedia link

How to trail brake

 
Actually no, thats not trail braking.
From Wikipedia:

Trail braking is a motorcycle riding and driving technique where the brakes are used beyond the entrance to a turn and are gradually released up to the point of apex.
It also helps a ton when cornering downhill through the canyons and mountains where engine braking alone is not enough to scrub speed. Alas, it's the speed that makes it fun at times, hence my desire for trail braking. Of course, sometimes that fun can make you fawl down, go boom, too.

 
Isn't that called Trail Braking or something? I used to do that all the time with the dirt bike in low-speed situations, and find that I do it on the FJR as well. Really helps in controlling low-speed situations.

 
Trail braking; that is what they call it. And yes, it works great at parking lot speeds when counterweighting a turn as well as high speed cornering during the lean-n-press.
Actually no, thats not trail braking.

From Wikipedia:

Trail braking is a motorcycle riding and driving technique where the brakes are used beyond the entrance to a turn and are gradually released up to the point of apex.

Wikipedia link

How to trail brake

That's what I meant. Thank you for clarifying.

 
...This also works great for me at the intersection approach, when I'm almost at the end of the stop. I guess I got used to using too much front brake, too late, and would come into the stop with too much front shock compression and would feel the rebound crank me back at the end of the stop. Duh! Only 185000miles on bikes and I'm still learning to stop.
Thank you for the tip. I don't find myself having to do tight U-turns very often, and I will often prefer to paddle-walk the bike instead of test my skills and drop the bike. But I will try your tip and try not to tip over... :D

I do find that when I'm in tight traffic, like in San Francisco trying to get out of town at rush hour, I will use a lot of accelerator while feathering the clutch and dragging the back brake.

But the main reason I'm responding to this post is because, after about 28,000 miles I'm still challenged by the deceptively simple task of smoothly and consistently coming to a full stop at a light or stop sign without bobbling the bike. I think I can actually come to a dead stop from speed, like in rapid-braking practice, better and more consistently than I can when day-to-day stopping from a slow approach.

I would try to slow down using constant decreasing acceleration, down shift to first, hit the last bit of brake to bring the bike to a complete and somewhat abrupt stop at the white line, and then try to casually put my left foot down. But I would always bobble the bike and dab my foot at the ground, sometimes my right foot because of the balance going in the other direction. I believe I learned the technique I had been using when I took the basic safety class, when the instructors were telling us to approach the stopping points with greater speed and more aggressive braking, while of course looking up and forward. Anyway, not being able to do in a consistent way what appears to be a simple maneuver is frustrating....! :angry: a

But I think I may have hit on a technique that let's me be smooth and consistent when coming to a stop at a light, something I've only been doing for the past couple of weeks. What I'm doing now puts into practice the practice you do at the basic and advanced riding courses, namely, seeing how slow you can move forward using a lot of revs while feathering the clutch. What I've been doing now to good success at lights and stop signs is slowing sooner and dropping the bike into first 10 or 15 feet from my stopping point, then, using throttle and clutch, moving the bike very slowly in first to my stopping point. Using this technique, I move so slowly, that coming to a complete stop and putting my foot down is quite simple and consistent.

I think this approach has the added benefit of getting me into first gear sooner and alerting cars behind me to slow down while I still have escape room ahead (and I'm in the right gear if I need to move quickly) if the car doesn't slow in time. I also think this is a smoother technique for when you have a passenger.

Anyway, I'm very happy with this technique, and am still refining it, working on not jabbing at the brake at the last second, but squeezing it.

Jb

 
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Has anyone tried this or have more technique input??
someone taught me that when i used to compete in the local GWRRA Top Gunn competitions. Works like a charm. Keep the rpms up also makes the flywheel act more like a gyroscope, so it also helps stabilize you some.

"Paddlefooting" is what we used to determine the skilled from the unskilled so we knew who to NOT be near when riding toy runs.

For smoother stops, keep looking out to the horizon. Bobbles as JB describes can often be due to looking down at the last minute (looking for slick spots, etc.). Scope the surface out before you get there (when it can still be done with your head up). It's already too late by the time you're ready to put your foot down.

 
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I would bet that this is also the reason for some FJR and XX guys wearing out 2-3 rear tires for each 1 front tire. Take for instance Warchild's recent succession of three rear tires done but the front one made it the whole way, during the BBG x7 run. I used to think rear tire wear was mostly from crankin on the acceleration all the time. Seems like it may be more a measure of how much rear braking we use in the turns and slowdowns as well.Thanks for the tips on the DVD's

 
The now famous Two Wheel Nut may have given me the best FJR tip of the Summer. As we were on the subject of making a tight turn at slow speeds on the FJR. (Isabella trip) He said try using a little tension on the back brake to settle the bikes motion without causing the front shock to compress and dive into the turn.
This is downright strange. Yesterday, I made a point of reading this tip and going out to try it. Here's the weird part -- I apparently do that subconsciously all the time. I never really "noticed" it before, don't have a clue where I learned it or picked up the habit. A little later, coming home and turning into the condo complex, I again noticed that I kinda drag the rear brake in those real slow maneuvers. To the extent I had noticed it before, I kinda had the impression I was pussying it out of some timidity, instead of doing something that was adding anything to that maneuver. I'm guessing it was some subconscious thing that I do with a heavy bike to keep from dropping it.** Thanks for the tip.

**Like I was telling O'vale last weekend -- if it's a motorcycle and I own it, it's been dropped at a standstill -- more than once.

 
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...But the main reason I'm responding to this post is because, after about 28,000 miles I'm still challenged by the deceptively simple task of smoothly and consistently coming to a full stop at a light or stop sign without bobbling the bike.
I realised pretty quickly that the only time I bobble on stops is when I am not looking up and out. I try to always look ahead or even at the traffic light itself when stopping. The top of the car two cars ahead also works well for me.

As for the rear brake only during slow maneuvers, I vividly remember the MSF instructor screaming at me to get my hand off the front brake while practicing slow, tight turns, like the figure 8.

The four techniques I use for tight, slow turning are: Counterbalancing, rear braking, eyes where you want to go, and feathering the friction zone.

Cheers,

Steve

 
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