Best Oil And Filter?

[GalaxyBlue]

I want to do my oil change myself and have a few questions.

What is the best synthetic oil and what weight?

Is there a filter that can be purchased at Auto Zone Or Napa?

I have 4700 miles on her now, Is it a good idea to use Synthectic oil yet?

What will work for the crush washer from the parts store?

I need to get it done this weekend, But Mamma Yamma is closed.

Thanks,

Adam

 

[Espia4ci]

My dealer mechanic told me Yamaha did not recommend synthetic oil until the engine is thoroughly broken-in, which they said translates to the 8,000 mile service.

I personally don't know of any other crush washer that you can use other than the standard Yamaha crush washer, but I have read about several FJR owners reusing their crush washers, although it is not recommended.

I had to drain some excess oil and didn't have a new crush washer at home. I reused the crush washer and rode for about a week until I got a new one, with no leaks or problems.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Pick up either a Bosch 3323 or Mobil M1-110, either works quite well. Haven't tried it myself yet, but you could maybe use a copper washer. I change the crush washer at every change. Oil...pick your poison, 5-40 or 10-40 variety non energy conserving. h34r:

Good Luck!

--G

 

[Canes]

Red Line 20W-50 and a K&N Filter at 1000 miles. The FJR runs smooth, make no noises, and the transmission is like butter. The K&N has an end nut which makes putting on and removal much easier.

 

[Bounce]

"best" is a term that is hard to respond to.

I can tell you what I use and that it has served well in many vehicles. If that's "best" is another story. Does it meet the requirements of the bike? Yes. Does it make shifting less "clunky"? Yes (and did so on 3 different types of Gold Wings, too).

Mobile 1 full synth

With the cost of filters being so minor a part of the total cost of ownership, I stick with the Yamaha ones.

 

[GalaxyBlue]

Thanks Bounce! I was leaning towards Mobil 1 synth. I got the 15/50 on the advice from a former FJR owner and he runs this in all his bikes from day 1, He currently has an 05 Busa and treats it to the same.

Adam

 

[Toecutter]

Mobile 1 full synth

Doesn't that stuff have friction modifiers in it? I went with Rotella full synthetic because of that issue. And Yamaha filters.

 

[Canes]

Not if it has the Gold cap. (15W40)

 

[Espia4ci]

[SIZE=21pt]Mobile 1 MX4T[/SIZE]

The following excerpt was taken from this web page.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorO...e_Oil_FAQs.aspx

>Okay. Let's start with Mobil 1 MX4T. What does it offer that Mobil 1 for cars >does not?

>Mobil 1 MX4T is designed for sport bikes. Most of these bikes have multi->cylinder/multi-valve engines and use a common sump, which means the >engine oil lubricates the engine, transmission and wet clutch. So unlike Mobil >1 for cars, Mobil 1 MX4T has no friction modifiers, which could lead to clutch >slippage.

>The motorcycle oil also has more phosphorus/zinc for enhanced wear >protection at high engine speeds and high loads. Remember, most bikes >don’t have catalytic converters, so higher levels of phosphorus are not a >problem.

>In addition, Mobil 1 MX4T uses different dispersant/detergent technology for >better high-temperature performance and engine cleanliness. Mobil 1 MX4T >is also offered in a different viscosity grade than Mobil 1 for passenger >cars."

 

[radman]

I use-

Mobil1 5w40 Truck (diesel spec)

Purolator Pure1 PL14610 filter.

Copper washers normally used for brake unions (reuseable forever, never crush, never leak)

For what its worth.

 

[Warchild]

I don't know if this is official from Mobil or not, but it would seem as if Mobil One has apparently stopped producing MX4T.

That, or there is a Mobil One MX4T conspiracy here in the Pacific Northwest, as AutoZone and Shuck Auto no longer stock it in their stores. In fact, I haven't been able to buy it for months now.....

 

[Rogue]

The Moble website still lists it: Mobil Oil.com FAQs

I'm ready to change my FJR to synthetic and I've been using Spectrol Golden in my bikes for 20 years... Is the Moble1 better?

I haven't had any problems with Spectrol anyone have any input on why I should change?

 

[Canes]

Warchild,

I read somewhere on the net (so it must be true), they stopped making it in quart/liter bottles, so all the stores stopped carrying it.

We have not had it available here in Hot'Lanta for some time either.

 

[leebunyard]

I use the Mobil One-110 oil filter, one full gallon of Shell Rotella 5W-40 full synthetic oil and add 8 ounces of STP oil treatment (dark blue bottle) to get the zinc compound for smooth gear shifting. That combo equals the full 4.23 quarts of oil called for in the service manual for each oil and filter change. I switched to full synthetic at the 1100 mile point on my '04 FJR, currently approaching 20,000 miles, engine is smooth, quiet, purrs like a sewing machine, shifting is buttery smooth throughout the entire 5000-6000 miles oil change interval. I change oil filter each time, despite the service manual calling for changing the filter only every other oil change. My son and I are using the Shell Rotella synthetic + STP oil treatment mix in our GSXR sportbikes and I'm also using it in my '87 GL1200 with 166,000 miles on it. All bikes are running great.

Lee in the Mountains of Northern California :agent:

 

[Overfly]

I bought Mobil 1 MX4T the other day at Wal-Mart in an off to the side motorcycle section away from all the other motor oils. The shelf was restocked with more MX4T a few days later. I'm not saying you guys aren't right about it being discontinued, but we still have some of it here in Arizona at Wally World.

I use the Purolator Pure 1 filter. The color even comes very close to the '05 blue. :cownoy:

 

[JimLor]

I love these oil/filter threads! I have ~2,000, on the bike and have Rotella T (dino oil) and use the Purolator Pure1 PL14610 filter. I am going to switch to the Rotella full synthetic real soon to see if it really makes any difference. I don't think (yup, "think" as I don't have any scientific data, etc to back it up) that it makes a whit of difference when you put in synthetic! I'll let you know if Old Blue chokes and falls over dead when I do this. I bought 8 crush washers so I'll have them for a while.

 

[FJReady]

JimLor,

I think you're right about not feeling any difference when switching to full synthetic. (some guys here like to add STP Blue for improved shift feel). I read quite a bit about it on the forums, many, many oil threads, found some interesting links and then decided to go synthetic. Mostly for protection at start up in cold weather. I don't shy away from riding to work those cool spring and fall morning when the temp starts out in the 30's. I figure the viscosity of a 5W-40 might provide a little advantage over the 20 weigh dino oil. I use the Rotella T Syn and sometimes the Pure One (when I find them) too. Works for me.

Good info:https://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

FJReady

 

[JimLor]

FJReady - thanks for the link, I've printed and read all the stuff on that site too. This is a subject with no end! Once my daughter stops working and goes back to school, I'm going to start the 40 commute from Stafford VA to Arlington and I think the synthetic will be better on those cool mornings too. And I gotta say, at $13/gal, the Rotella is a great deal. I changed my oil/filter at 600 miles and really don't mind draining the dino oil out after only ~ 1500 miles, but I think I'll keep the oil filter on the bike. Heck, the filter cost almost as much as the oil!

 

[blugofast]

MX4T mobil one is available at GI Joes or you can get it from the distributor in Seattle, Shultz Dist. Inc. The local EXXON-MOBIL Guys