Recent Coolant / oil leak, maybe last oil change

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The part that the hoses go into is the oil cooler.  

Looks like you found your problem and it's a relatively easy fix.  Bad hose and/or hose clamp, an worst case leaking overflow tank.

 
Ok, I've removed the large "Port" side panel(and broke a plastic tab on a fold out cooling panel 😢).
As a slight divergence, I presume the tab you broke was one of the "hinge" parts that are held in a metal clip. If this is so, I strongly advise you not to ride with the panel in position, the panels are well known for being ripped away by the wind if not perfectly secured.

Again, assuming this this is what you are referring to, they don't come out easily. I used a large screwdriver to spring the metal clip a bit to help free the plastic from it.

(Click on image for larger view)

 

[edit] Put in second picture, shows method a bit better [/edit]

 
Make sure all hose clamps are tight enough.  As they age, you might have to tweak the clamp a bit to prevent seeping.

I mentioned that I had two separate issues.  Cracked coolant overflow tank and a hole in the radiator - from no apparent cause.  Others have reported cracked overflow tanks as well as radiator leaks not caused by road debris.

https://www.fjrforum.com/topic/172405-leaking-radiator/?tab=comments#comment-1372063
Thanks RK. I'm not really sure about the reservoir leak, but with seepage outside the bottom,

I think I'll be safe and R&R that container.

Thank you.

 
The part that the hoses go into is the oil cooler.  

Looks like you found your problem and it's a relatively easy fix.  Bad hose and/or hose clamp, an worst case leaking overflow tank.
You know, I'm really just trying to understand here... I'm not trying to be argumentative, but why does

an "oil cooler" contain coolant hose connections ? And why didn't the fiche identify that unit as "oil cooler"?

SLK50 sent me a Bike Bandit URL identifying that unit as an oil cooler. The URL I referenced most recently

is Yamaha OEM. I would think it would be complete. If it's an oil cooler, it's unlike any oil cooler I've ever seen.

Those connected hoses are not of the quality/strength for oil passage. Every external oil line I've ever seen

was built with end fittings for connection, and metal/fiberglass reinforced hose material for strength. What

am I missing here?

Thank you.

 
As a slight divergence, I presume the tab you broke was one of the "hinge" parts that are held in a metal clip. If this is so, I strongly advise you not to ride with the panel in position, the panels are well known for being ripped away by the wind if not perfectly secured.

Again, assuming this this is what you are referring to, they don't come out easily. I used a large screwdriver to spring the metal clip a bit to help free the plastic from it.

(Click on image for larger view)

Yes, you are correct. Soon after 2009 purchase, I'd done the panel R&R because it was the only

way I could see for coolant addition. I didn't break the tab then. I guess I'm just impatient as I

get older. But, I'm confused - you say "not to ride with the panel in position....".

The bottom of the panel pivots on these two tabs(one, of which I broke). But also contains two

Dzus fasteners on top to hold the panel closed/secure. I hope your statement does not mean

I can't ride the bike with the two Dzus fasteners securely closed, locking the panel from top?

Although I'd read about riding the bike with those heat panels open, I've never done it. So I have

to assume - "do not ride the bike with the broken tab on the heat panel, unless the panel is closed

and secured". Because otherwise, I'll have to replace the full heat panel to rectify the broken tab.

Thank you.

 
The oil cooler is a liquid to liquid (anti-freeze to oil) style cooler. The hoses you're seeing are for anti-freeze from the engine cooling system. Oil passages to and from the cooler are internal to the engine. 

Partzilla link to fiche.

~G
Thanks Escape, that is much clearer. To eliminate the need for external oil lines, the cooler remains

an integral engine part. Because the FJR already has its source of internal engine coolant(unlike an air

cooled bike), by substituting cheaper/lighter external coolant lines for the more expensive/heavier

external oil lines, the process is simply reversed. And don't forget, it enablles owners like me to

experience a system coolant leak in 13 years, and <36,000 miles.

Thank you, for your excellent clarification. It was just what I needed.

 
But also contains two

Dzus fasteners on top to hold the panel closed/secure. I hope your statement does not mean

I can't ride the bike with the two Dzus fasteners securely closed, locking the panel from top?
That is exactly what I mean. The wind can get underneath and rip that flap out, it has happened. A 70 mph wind is pretty powerful. 

 
That is exactly what I mean. The wind can get underneath and rip that flap out, it has happened. A 70 mph wind is pretty powerful. 
Thanks for your warning Mcat. Unlike many, my 70 & 70+ runs are few. But do occur sometimes.

I've never used those heat panels, but I guess my only fix now is replacement. Seems like plastic was used where a stronger material was needed.

Thank you.

 
I've never used those heat panels, but I guess my only fix now is replacement. Seems like plastic was used where a stronger material was needed.
If one of the two hinges is OK and you have it in the closed position (with the fastener engaged), I don't think it will fly away on you.  

 
If one of the two hinges is OK and you have it in the closed position (with the fastener engaged), I don't think it will fly away on you.  
We have a difference of opinion. You pays your money and you takes your choice.

 
We have a difference of opinion. You pays your money and you takes your choice.
While I would expect it to be OK, perhaps it wouldn't - never tried with one of the hinges broken.  If it can't be fixed, I would probably chance it before buying a replacement.

 
While I would expect it to be OK, perhaps it wouldn't - never tried with one of the hinges broken.  If it can't be fixed, I would probably chance it before buying a replacement.
https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/3P6-2830C-00-P5?ref=0af0df1265028d7e28d8c0df985a74ec2025915d

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/3P6-2830D-00-P5?ref=0af0df1265028d7e28d8c0df985a74ec2025915d

For some reason they're different prices. But, not as bad as I expected. I'll bet if you go to a local dealer, you'll have to have an FHA loan !

Yamaha was real nice by embossing the 3P6-2830C-00 part # on the inside of the heat panel. That was right friendly !!

Thanks.

 
Referring to:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fjr1300a-fjr13aw/water-pump

Does anyone know anything about #18:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/3P6-12581-00-00?ref=7f39968052f91668cd536344fc23f84fc6192192

As you can see, the description is "Joint Hose 1". I interpret "hose" to mean it is a true Neoprene type coolant carrier hose.

My question is, if I've interpreted the schematic correctly, that part(3P6-12581-00-00) on my 2007 FJR is an aluminum tube

or pipe. And that tube/pipe, in the form of a very small pin hole, is the majority source of my coolant leak. So either I've tag-

ged the wrong part, the part has been superseded in construction material since 2007, or the "hose" description is not corr-

ect, and only generic?

However, to see this part, you would probably need full starboard plastic removal. So don't go tearing off a side panel just

to check. But, if you can get a good image of exhaust headers, this tube runs laterally between the engine and headers.

From the #21 item, over to the #15 item.

Thank you.

 
Item #15 is "Hose 1" and #18 is a Joint for Hose 1 ("Joint, Hose 1"). It connects hose 1 and hose 2 but is not a hose itself but rather a joint. You have to rearrange the item description as you would a name in a roll call like Smith, Bill.

 
I haven't heard of this part leaking before but it is 13 years old.  (It is also a metal pipe on my 2011).  Don't know where you are seeing the leak but is it possible that it is just a hose clamp that hasn't been tightened enough?  I guess you will have to take it apart to get a good look.

 
Item #15 is "Hose 1" and #18 is a Joint for Hose 1 ("Joint, Hose 1"). It connects hose 1 and hose 2 but is not a hose itself but rather a joint. You have to rearrange the item description as you would a name in a roll call like Smith, Bill.
Thanks "Loonie". I understand your description, but it just wasn't clear to me.

Thank you very much for the clarity, and verification that I've got the right part.

 
I haven't heard of this part leaking before but it is 13 years old.  (It is also a metal pipe on my 2011).  Don't know where you are seeing the leak but is it possible that it is just a hose clamp that hasn't been tightened enough?  I guess you will have to take it apart to get a good look.
Thanks "RossKean". You guys are great. I'd posed a similar question to Partzilla(as is suggested if help is needed).

But their declarations accentuate that "everything" about their business is grinding very slowly due to virus interruptions.

The #18 pipe is leaking at the bend. Specifically on the outside of the bend, only about an inch away from the join into #15#16.

The pipe has a lots of rust appearance there. But, of course aluminum's not rust. I rubbed my finger over the spot and it began

oozing/dripping again. This bike hasn't been run in a month(no pressurized coolant) and it still seep out. I just was out there(in

the garage) to verify the leak location, and it's got a coolant puddle as big as a softball. When I rubbed my finger over the pipe I

could feel a very slight nick at that point. I think the rust/sludge was actually helping contain the leak somewhat. disturbing that

sludge really let the coolant ooze out. It was a lot like pouring water over a leaky tire valve. I'm ordering/replacing every soft hose

in that area(#15, #18, #19, and #28 from:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2007/fjr1300a-fjr13aw/radiator-hose

That should take care of the problem. I'm also replacing the coolant reservoir.

Thank you, "RossKean" and "FJRLoonie", very much, for your guidance.

 
Glad you discovered the source.  Hoses might or might not be any good - they seem to last a long time but I think I would replace them since you have to replace the pipe anyway. Even if the hoses aren't cracked and the rubber is still supple,  they can still cause a leak where they have been clamped. 

 
I've ordered all the parts on 06/02. Of course, some are back ordered. Maybe, they'll be here by Christmas !

I specified every hose/joint(where the leak is) to completely refit all related components.

In the meantime, I'm missing some very favorable riding weather here in Texas.

 
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