Best Sliders For FJR

[sgoat]

Though I went with the Motivation (AFI Racing) sliders, the RG's lool like an excellent choice. Hope none of us ever have to road test them!

 

[NoCage]

For the best sliders, can't beat...

Krystals... hahaha... here's one sick mind that got that. :haha: I knew a guy that would place an order at some all night diner like this... "Wacha got that'll make a big'un". :wacko:

 

[FJRandy]

Why is everyone so bent about drilling holes?
It is much easier than removing the plastics, and you cant see the hole behind them so WTF? Its not like the bike is ever going to be without them!!

I started my pilot hole by eye, then used a step bit (uni-bit) and walked the hole on center if needed. First side took 30 mins to plan and carefully execute, then the other took 5.

I like my R&Gs for several reasons, including ease of install: More appropriate lower position and longer protrusion, no extra bracket which blocks the frame vent, not necessary to remove all engine mount bolts (I don't like this idea at all - the engine is not doweled in place).

-BD

Couldn't have said it better myself.

R&G is the ONLY one that protects at anything over 0 mph.

And the only one that protects the engine cases as well.

If you're buying them to protect your investment, buy the R&G's. If you just care about looks, buy the others and make sure you lower your insurance deductable.

 

[motorgod]

This thread is almost as good as the "oil" topic. I think I will go with the R&G sliders. Looks like the best design for a muy importante job.

Now if someone would be kind enough to post a link to the R&G sliders, I would be eternally grateful.

 

[SilveradoSlick]

Eternally grateful, hmm? Damn, I could use some eternal gratefulness. BikeJohnny

 

[Geezer]

FWIW, I installed the R&G sliders last weekend. I didn't have one of them expensive step drills so I eyeballed a pilot hole and enlarged it with my dremel. Came out very nice. Torqued them to 40 ft lbs with anti-sieze goo on the threads.

The only problem I see with the R&Gs is that you now have to take them off any time you need to take the plastic panels off.

 

[JaminBrown]

The only problem I see with the R&Gs is that you now have to take them off any time you need to take the plastic panels off.

Isn't that also true of the Moko/Motivation/Metisse sliders as well?

 

[snowmonkey]

For the best sliders, can't beat...

Krystals... hahaha... here's one sick mind that got that. :haha:

What are you talking about, man. That's a White Castle slider..,most likely it was built in Chi-town.

 

[motorgod]

Hey SilveradoSlick.....my avatar is extremely grateful... she wanted you to know that B)

 

[OhioFJR1300]

This thread is almost as good as the "oil" topic.  I think I will go with the R&G sliders.  Looks like the best design for a muy importante job.
Now if someone would be kind enough to post a link to the R&G sliders, I would be eternally grateful. 

try this, I got mine in 3 day for here.Atlanta cycle's web page

 

[moby one]

Receieved the R&G's today and went to Ace hardware to purchase a uni bit OUCH $54.00 for the one inch. Went to Home Depot and a 7/8th was $34.00. Anyone have any other suppliers for le$$?

mo

 

[Claymore]

Do you have a Dremel?

 

[BrunDog]

Got mine at sears for $39.00. If time is not an issue check McMaster-Carr at Click me now.

-BD

 

[HIGHLANDER]

The only problem I see with the R&Gs is that you now have to take them off any time  you need to take the plastic panels off.

Isn't that also true of the Moko/Motivation/Metisse sliders as well?

Nope, not true. The moko's pucks mount to a machine billet aluminum piece of art , that bolts to the engine. To remove the Puck you unscrew it from the billet piece.

With the RG's you are unscrewing a motor mount bolt every time. There have been a few cases on FJRowners forum where the tapped threads in the frame stripped out from over use / incorrect torque. Helicoils had to be used to repair the threads. :erm:

Be careful torqueing lubed bolts! Most specs are DRY not WET. If wet you should reduce the torque value.

 

[Zzooomm]

I personally observed the Mokos in a moderate speed low side and they prevented any damage to the lowers, bar ends, and would have prevented damage to the upper had the Top Gun light braket not folded back. Further damage occurred when the bike came to an abrupt stop against the far side of the bar ditch. Mokos do work! If you don't like their looks, are uncomfortable removing bolts, to busy to spend 5 minutes removing the lowers, by all means opt for another brand. But, don't kid yourself and think yours work better because someone told you so. I have no sliders but Mokos would be my choice after seeing them in action.

 

[Overfly]

Get the MOTO sliders from WH. No drilling, same exact design as MOKO's and they look great. Haven't had a chance to test them yet and am trying to keep it that way. Cheap insurance that you'd be crazy not to get. I personally think the no drilling option is the way to go as it just looks more stock than add-on. B)

 

[twowheelnut]

Skyway's, if he makes 'em!

 

[madmike2]

The best sliders are the ones you wished you gotten and installed rather than waiting and reading about which ones might be the best.

 

[stryg8r]

Just to add one more data point to the slider discussion. I had a parking lot "incident" that resulted in my bike sliding down an asphalt covered hill. The bike fell over on its right side and slid, at a about a 45 degree angle down the hill, seat first. It hit the pavement with enough force to destroy the right aux light, bending the mounting bracket, bent the Wild Bill hyw peg bracket and bolts, and scratched up the right saddlebag. However, not a scratch on the fairing thanks to the R&G slider.





Derek

 

[pmeysemb]

Thought I would throw a couple more pics at the folks who are deciding on what sliders to get since I now have the ol web page runnin' now.

These are the Matisse sliders from WildHair (rad. guard from them, too, BTW)

paul's FJR pics

Paul (Duluth, MN)

'05 FJR

edit: sorry about so late to this discussion