Bike Johnny Sliders

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Jun 14, 2005
Messages
15,344
Reaction score
2,030
Location
Greenville,SC
I've got a question...

Preamble...

I'm going to install the BJ sliders per the easy directions shown on HMarc's website.

The directions indicate using a unibit for the 1" dia. hole for the sliders. I went to purchase a unibit and found the retail to be about $45. The unibit is evidently gentle on the plastic fairing -so was the choice in the BJ slider directions.

I asked on this board if any others in Northern IL had a unibit - no positive responses to that query. However, I did get suggestions such as using a hole saw.

MY QUESTION HERE...

Has ANYONE on this board drilled holes in your fairing using a hole saw? If so, were the results satisfactory? Anything to watch out for?

I'm looking to install this weekend, and will probably buy the unibit unless I hear of satisfactory performance from someone on this board.

Thanks in advance...

 
A Unibit is absolutely the best way to drill your fairing. I would try your local Costco or Harbour Frieght. I have seen non name brand Unibits sold at both places in a 3 pack for $29 or less. Regardless, I would use the Unibit even if I had to pay the $45.

 
Wheaton,

The key to hole saws is the pilot hole. I would start by locating the center of the hole, tapping it with an awl, then run a small diameter pilot hole - say half the dia. as the hole saws pilot bit. Then with the smaller hole drilled, have at it with the hole saw. Just make sure you keep it perpendicular to the surface and keep the drill speed steady, medium rpms - too many and the heat may affect the plastic or paint, too few and she could bind up and tear.

FWIW, I drilled my power outlet hole in the dash panel with a speed bit. Like butta'.

 
IF YOU MUST USE A HOLE SAW ( I'D ADVISE AGAINST IT ) CLAMP A BLOCK OF WOOD BEHIND THE FAIRING.

THE PILOT BIT WILL STRAIGHT THROUGH THE PLASTIC BUT WHEN THE TEETH OF THE HOLE SAW HITS THE PLASTIC IT WILL WANT TO WANDER ALL OVER THE PLACE.

WITH THE BLOCK BEHIND THE FAIRING THE PILOT BIT WILL KEEP EVERYTHING LINED UP.

Sorry about the caps

 
A hole saw will be more likely to "walk" on you than a unibit will. Considering the cost of replacement plastic, the investment in a quality unibit is minor and will be a long-term resource in your tool kit.

 
THANKS guys for all your responses.

I will definitely purchase the unibit. Yes, I know how much the plastic costs...(don't ask me how I know)

All I know is that following too close to the rider in front of you is NOT a good idea...lesson learned :dribble:

 
I will definitely purchase the unibit. Yes, I know how much the plastic costs...(don't ask me how I know)
Hmm.

- Has quesitons about installing frame sliders..

- Knows how much plastic costs...

Coincidence? I think not. ;)

 
I have installed 4 sets of R&G sliders on my and other's bikes with a hole saw without a problem.

I see no reason to spend more for the "step" drill.

 
I used a new hole saw to cut mine and couldn't believe how easy it was. I used the pattern they sent to get in the ballpark, and then moved the 1/16" bit according to get in the center of the allen head. It left the fairing really smooth. All I did was take my finger nail and run around the edge to clean up any burrs. I was sweating starting the job, but I'll bet it didn't take any more than 20 minutes per side. Didn't even have to take the fairings off.

Roy

 
Go to Home Depot and purchase a Black & Decker Hole Puller. They work great as long as the hole is within 1" of its final destination. If you miss by more than 1" you will need the Industrial model (good up to 2.5"). Buy the tool before you drill the hole, because it must be moved within 20 minutes or it will "set" and become extremely stable and can no longer be pulled without the danger of cracking that expensive plastic. :tease:

 
I stopped everywhere looking for the unibit, but the largest I could find was 7/8 inch for $54 plus it was just a smidge too small. I found a 25mm hole saw at Lowes for $5. After finding center and drilling the pilot hole, be very careful to control the holesaw it will grab and take the saw into the plastic. FWIW Mine turned out Grrreeeaat!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hole saw works just fine.

One tip: Tape up the paint surface that will be drilled with painters tape.

It can keep the edges of the hole from flaking.

It can also prevent small stray scratches.

 
Go to Home Depot and purchase a Black & Decker Hole Puller. They work great as long as the hole is within 1" of its final destination. If you miss by more than 1" you will need the Industrial model (good up to 2.5"). Buy the tool before you drill the hole, because it must be moved within 20 minutes or it will "set" and become extremely stable and can no longer be pulled without the danger of cracking that expensive plastic. :tease:
In case you can't find it they are in the same isle as the wire stretchers. :D

 
https://www.mytoolstore.com/klein/59021.html
$34.74 and Klein is all I use for electrical work...
My Klein stuff that I got back in the 70's when doing residental and commercial electrical work are still in my tool box doing their jobs any time they are asked to. Even still have the offset "wiggle" screw driver.
I remember when one of my old bosses brought me one of those. He had never seen one before and thought it was just the neatest thing.

Klein tools are rock solid and the side cutters are the only ones I have ever replaced due to my cutting live wires and blowing a chunk of them out. <_<

 
Klein tools are rock solid and the side cutters are the only ones I have ever replaced due to my cutting live wires and blowing a chunk of them out.
I did that with a pair of strippers. We were doing a fixture job and the journeyman was supposed to have gone out and flipped off the master breakers...

11048.jpg


NOT! :boss:

I went to strip the hot and neutrals and BAM! The current went between the wires and not out to the bare tip where I had hold of it so I could pull both sides evenly. I still have those for smaller gauge wire, but replaced them for the 12ga stuff.

We had a little "talk".

 
Top