Bike won't start, clicks very fast

[RossKean]

The WOT (wide open throttle) technique for a flooded FJR isn't instantaneous. I have had to do this upon a couple of occasions. Once after extended (winter) storage and once after starting and shutting off without letting the engine warm up.

FULLY CHARGED BATTERY to start with.
WOT, crank for maybe 15-20 seconds and give it a rest for the starter to cool a couple minutes.
Might take a few tries. Once it seems to be catching a bit (you can tell) I would back off on the throttle a bit. It will eventually catch but maybe only on one or two cylinders and you might have to modulate the throttle to keep it going. Doesn't take long to clear.
If the cranking speed slows down due to battery depletion, charge the battery (or boost).

 

[Boston]

Red switch? On

 

[RiderJoe]

It sounds like that the weak battery was only one issue, which you took care of. For combustion to occur, the engine needs air, fuel, and spark - obviously. The next thing I would attempt before diving under the tank is is to remove the air filter, and spray a small amount of engine start into the airbox while attempting to start the engine. If the engine starts, great. If it stops shortly after a squirt of fluid, then you have spark, but the engine isn’t getting fuel. If the engine doesn’t attempt to fire up, then the spark plugs aren’t firing.

 

[RossKean]

Red switch? On

Won't crank with kill switch engaged.

 

[Mortenk]

I would start by checking the sparkplugs. Once clean and you confirm a spark, try again...

 

[RossKean]

I would start by checking the sparkplugs. Once clean and you confirm a spark, try again...

Pain in the butt to lift the tank and remove t-bar and heat shield to check plugs. Very unlikely to be "bad" although they will be wet if engine is flooded.

I certainly wouldn't get into that without the WOT start attempt. I still think that is the most likely - pretty common for FJRs
OP hasn't been logged onto the forum since Saturday - I wonder if it has been resolved.

 

[RiderJoe]

I hope that his issue is resolved, an is out riding instead of spending time on the forum trying to figure out how the get the bike started.

 

[RBEmerson]

OK, agreed, as OP said, the fast clicking was a dead battery. Agreed WOT can help with clearing gas-fouled plugs. But I'm puzzled by nobody suggesting a careful application of ether. It's a lot easier to do that than rip the bike apart to get to the plugs,

Which may or may not be fouled to begin with. I have an uneasy feeling the OP's bike may have an unhappy surprise or two waiting for him.

 

[RossKean]

But I'm puzzled by nobody suggesting a careful application of ether. It's a lot easier to do that than rip the bike apart to get to the plugs,

Suggested by RiderJoe in #23, above...

The next thing I would attempt before diving under the tank is is to remove the air filter, and spray a small amount of engine start into the airbox while attempting to start the engine.

I have to say that it wouldn't be the first (or even the second) thing I would try but I have never used starting fluid for anything before.
I am a little more optimistic if only because I have seen this sort of "no-start" a number of times on different FJRs. Usually solved by the WOT except in one instance I remember reading about where the engine wasn't turning over fast enough because of a bad starter motor.

 

[RiderJoe]

Agreed, the starting fluid attempt wouldn’t be my first or second choice either. Checking that there is fuel in the tank would be first, WOT would be second after the message stating that the starter ‘turns the engine over like a champ’. Letting the bike sit for an while then trying to start it normally again would be third, then WOT again. If all these attempts fail is when I would try the starter fluid path. Starter fluid (ether) combusts much easier than gas/fuel mixture - if there is spark, even in a flooded engine. So if the engine starts to sputter, or starts up then spark is confirmed, and the resulting combustions will get rid if the flooded condition. If the sputtering stops after the starting fluid is burned up, then there is an issue with the fuel supply to the engine (clogged injectors, no power to injectors, clogged fuel line/filter = no gas to the engine). So, if the starting fluid doesn’t get the engine going, then more work is needed to resolve the problem. Note that spraying starting fluid should be done sparingly, only as a quick attempt. Don’t keep spraying if the engine won’t start, or just sputters with it.

 

[RBEmerson]

As it appears the OP's gone dark, either the bike's running, or in a repair queue somewhere.

Given how volatile ether is, it's either a useful tool for the tool box or a good way to head to the story ending "...and that's when I singed my eyebrows off". Further classification depends on the user's skill, and common sense...

My fav ether story begins with "I couldn't believe he sprayed starter fluid all over the plug wires before trying to start the car."

 

[RiderJoe]

I agree completely. It goes without saying that one should know how to use the tools in his toolbox, and follow instructions and warnings on product labels. And of course, as you said, use common sense.

My recommendation was to "remove the air filter, and spray a small amount of engine start into the airbox while attempting to start the engine". Not on spark plugs, etc.

I must also add to use this attempt as a last resort after all normal, tried-and-true starting methods fail. By no means should it be used regularly as it isn't much more than a "hail Mary" before having to take the bike apart, or towing the bike to a service shop. However, it can either start the engine, or give you an idea as to where the general problem may be (fuel supply, or ignition issue).