Bleed the ABS brakes on the FJR

[Barabus]

Well, I tried to bleed the brakes on my 2006 ABS last night with limited success. My back brake has always been mushy. That's the way back brakes are supposed to be, right? Well, mine was worse. I suspected a bad bleed from the dealer when new. I also could never get my rear pedal to pulse with ABS kicked in. My front brake fluid was looking dark brown after 6k miles. I decided enough was enough. Using the tech section from FJRTech on the clutch bleed, I decided to do the brakes.

I purchased a Mity Vac Silverline Plus and already had a service manual. The clutch wasn't much of a problem although my connection to the bleed screw leaked so I might do it again. The service manual mentioned the following order: front brake, front unified brake and then rear break. The brake bleed kit hooked up to my front brakes much better. In fact as soon a I started I quickly heard this sucking sound from my master cylinder. Oops. I put about a half a bottle of DOT 4 thru and did not see any bubbles. I thought I was okay, but when I buttoned up the front brake lever went to the grip three times before having normal resistance. Is this the part where I should have bleed the master cylinder by gently squeezing the lever with the master cylinder cap off? Does it still bleed with the cap on or did I just push more air into the system? Do I need to redo this? Seems normal now. Did the mityvac just pull the pads away from the rotor and that is what I am feeling?

Onto the front unified with the super sucker, well it didn't take me too long to figure that this front unified brake bleed screw is connected to the rear brake reservoir. It must have had nothing in it since it only evaced a few cc's then went dry and sucked air. ****!! Put big bottle of fluid thru the front unified and the rear, and filled the reservoir. The rear brake lever bottomed out once and then was fine after buttoning up.

It raining today so I cannot test my handy work. What say all you wrench heads? Is there a good how-to-link for someone hopeless like me? How should I test my brakes- slow at first then pick up speed and run them until very hot? Or should I just redo? I will do a write up when I get good at this and know what I am doing. Constructive criticism is welcome and if you just want to bash on my mechanical skills- that is OK too. But I am serious about this because I usually ride with others and I would hate to hit the brakes and not feel stoppage and run into a mate.

 

[radman]

Not familiar with the newer set-up, so no good advise from me-other than the fact that I follow up every bleed on Frank with an overnight full application of the brake levers, as in a bungee wrapped around the levers to fully apply them, hard as I can. This allows the last little bit of air to migrate up to the top, and upon release of the lever, it escapes into the reservoir. This has worked on every bike I've owned, with great success, as the lever is always harder and the feel improved over just a good bleed alone. FWIW.

 

[mike25]

Is there a way to cycle the ABS pump while

bleeding the brakes?

 

[radman]

Is there a way to cycle the ABS pump whilebleeding the brakes?

With the proper jumper, yes, but not needed, at least on the older ones.

 

[Barabus]

Rad,

Thanks for the useful suggestion. I will add that as a finish step on the procedure.

 

[Barabus]

Well, the back brake is much better now. The front and the clutch seem to be the same as before. Which I am happy with. Still anybody with advice or a how to link would be appreciated. BTW, the bownish fluid in my front brake was due to the new rubber hoses and, at least according to some internet sources, this leaching is nothing to worry about.

 

[charismaticmegafauna]

<snip> Well, I tried to bleed the brakes on my 2006 ABS last night with limited success. My back brake has always been mushy. That's the way back brakes are supposed to be, right? Well, mine was worse. I suspected a bad bleed from the dealer when new. I also could never get my rear pedal to pulse with ABS kicked in. ..... But I am serious about this because I usually ride with others and I would hate to hit the brakes and not feel stoppage and run into a mate.

Keep at it 'till you get it. Altho I've bled lots of systems, any advice I'd give would still be basic -- no secret skill to offer.

To answer some of your questions: Back brake should not be mushy (no brakes should be mushy) -- but, one of the added 'attractions' of modern, complicated, braking systems is much more plumbing and more difficulty getting good 'feel'. You shouldn't have gotten a 'bad bleed' from the dealer when new because the bikes are delivered (in the crate) with the brakes all ready to go. You should be able to make the ABS activate on slippery surfaces -- sometimes it takes either a really slippery place or really a lot of force -- and, be careful.

Some riders are more accepting of poor brake performance (and feel) than others. I think it is of primary importance that riders don't 'make excuses for their brakes'. Adjusting your riding for brakes that aren't right is a recipe for disaster, imo. It's equally as satisfying (and safe) to have excellent feeling brakes as it is to have wonderful throttle roll-on power.

Good luck, and don't quit 'till you get it right.