Bleeding the clutch fluid ‘06AE due to a sh-16 fault

[majicmaker]

Hello, Boys and Girls. Im in need of some technical expertise. I have the 06AE model. AS on the other side of the pond. Im getting a sh-16 error code. The transmission isnt shifting into gear from neutral with the trigger shifter or the foot shifter.

The FSM says I need a replace the MCU for this fault. Im absolutely willing to do that if that is in fact the problem but, Im going through everything that can cause that fault first.

1) I disconnected (repeatedly) every electrical connector I could get to in the YCCS system and applied dielectric silicone on both ends to make sure I didnt have any dirty or corroded pins.

2) I noticed that I have a significant leak at the mating surface of the Clutch Release Cylinder. I gave Brodie a shout out (again) and he said that leak smells like a smoking gun and I agree. Loss of clutch fluid can cause that fault.

The technical expertise I need right now is with flushing and bleeding the clutch fluid. Im quite familiar with flushing clutch fluid systems but, the AE isnt as straight forward as the A models. I remember a few folks along the way stating that theres several things in the bleeding process that has to be performed on the AE that doesnt on the A.

Thanks in advance. Any and all help will be appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Steve in Phx]

I'm not familiar with the location of the "Clutch Release Cylinder". Where is that located, and have you fixed that leak yet, so you won't lose all the new fluid after bleeding?

 

[mcatrophy]

You can read what the manual says about bleeding the clutch in these three piccies:

(Click on image for larger view)



Don't panic, there is no need to take off the swing-arm stuff. Where it says about manual operation, simply turn the ignition on and off, this makes the MCU cycle the actuator to do it for you.

 

[majicmaker]

I'm not familiar with the location of the "Clutch Release Cylinder". Where is that located, and have you fixed that leak yet, so you won't lose all the new fluid after bleeding?

Steve, look at Mc’s pictures below on page 3-19. It’s the unit that the bleeder is attached to. I just got home and I’m getting ready to take the CRC off now and make a new gasket to fix the leak. Thanks for the reply.

 

[majicmaker]

You can read what the manual says about bleeding the clutch in these three piccies:
(Click on image for larger view)

Don't panic, there is no need to take off the swing-arm stuff. Where it says about manual operation, simply turn the ignition on and off, this makes the MCU cycle the actuator to do it for you.

Thanks, Mc. I’m getting started on making a new gasket and replacing the CRC. I’ve heard from several people that I don’t need to remove the swing arm. That’s a relief because that’s one less thing I have to do. Thank You!

 

[12tinker]

Hello Majicmaker,

I'll have to read up on the sh-16 fault but..

If you indeed to bleed, I bled mine in the spring and it's EZ, but looks like you will need a seal as it is leaking and it shouldn't. Take a look if its an available part from Yamaha, otherwise get a new slave cylinder.

After that's done, place a clear hose on the bleeder the usual way, open up the reservoir to refill before dry and manually press the piston repeatedly after unbolting. Just be sure not to let it overextend and pop out. You may have to cycle the ignition or do an ABS cycle to purge the actuator if you get air up there when replacing the seal, my guess...but bolt it back on before so.

Not sure about back bleeding with a syringe. Check if the clutch completely disengages by turning the rear wheel.

May not be related, but check free movement of shift linkage, brake pedal, loose shift solenoid (see recall), all related shift/clutch mechanicals. Once I got myself in a mess on my AE just nailing the brake pedal, then getting a code and trying to manually shift in neutral to roll to the side of the road. Once I lubed the pedal, all was good.

12Tinker.

 

[Steve in Phx]

Bleeding isn't hard. I've done it several times. And as said before, you don't need to remove the swingarm. Turning the ignition on and off does work to cycle the clutch.

Also, check these two things before you start making changes or bleeding the system.

1. Is there still fluid in the fluid reservoir? Don't let it run out and suck in air! Or bleeding may become much more difficult.

2. What RPM is your idle set to? If the idle is high, the YCCS will refuse to shift into first gear. I would recommend you check this first, and reduce the idle if it's too high.

 

[majicmaker]

Bleeding isn't hard. I've done it several times. And as said before, you don't need to remove the swingarm. Turning the ignition on and off does work to cycle the clutch.Also, check these two things before you start making changes or bleeding the system.

1. Is there still fluid in the fluid reservoir? Don't let it run out and suck in air! Or bleeding may become much more difficult.

2. What RPM is your idle set to? If the idle is high, the YCCS will refuse to shift into first gear. I would recommend you check this first, and reduce the idle if it's too high.

My idle is always at 1100rpm. The clutch still isn’t cycling when I turn the key to “On”. I’m still working on it. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Brodie]

Victor

Try this...

When you turn on the ignition switch and pull the brake lever, see if the wrench hex on the underside of the clutch actuator rotates, and then rotates the other direction when you turn off the ignition switch. This is the wrench hex that the service manual has you turn for bleeding the clutch fluid after having removed the swing arm.

The sound you hear when cycling the AE with the ignition switch, is the clutch basket releasing and re-engaging. This requires a working hydraulic system. If the leak is such that it fails to disengage the clutch, you may not hear anything. By verifying the wrench hex action you can determine if the issue is electrical or mechanical.

Brodie