Blipping the Throttle

[luvtoride]

holy cow... ride more... worry less

 

[Rider]

OK, somehow I got a warning and a point for my two posts here. I have no idea why?

Nope. Look closer. You got OLD warning points removed because they expired. Unrelated to anything posted "here" other than time (since the events that lead to the original warning) passing.

You can see your warning points at any time. If you go from 2 to 0 (zero) that is not "getting a warning and a point" (or even 2).

You should ask this stuff in PMs.

Sorry I misunderstand the Warning system, Bounce, and sorry to all of you for being so obtuse.

 

[redjay]

What is this warning system you speak of ?

 

[Bounce]

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/157893-monthly-admin-actions/

Explains it.

If you use the SHOW NEW (stuff since your last visit), then these monthly reports will be included when they are updated. There has been at least one new one since you joined. I think you signed up just a few days after the September report went up.

There's also the companion thread:

https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php/topic/157894-monthly-admin-actions-q-a/

 

[BobbyBlue]

.....obtuse.....i agree...there are some fat *******s on these bikes...keep eating like this and you'll likely get diabolical and need insulating....medical people...sheese...and i blip the throttle all the time if i feel it can be truly irritating....all us beemers do it....its like...junior assholehood before you get the M6........

 

[Harald]

I'm surprised to hear that some of you are not having success with the throttle blip to reduce the 1st gear clunk. Then it occurred to me that perhaps the clutch lever is not being pulled in before blipping the throttle? This is a critical part of the process because only if the clutch lever is pulled in will the sticking clutch plates free up.

 

[DennisJ]

I've found that pulling and releasing the clutch lever slowly several times eliminates the 1st gear clunk almost all the time. No throttle blipping, just normal idle speed.

 

[Donal]

I'm surprised to hear that some of you are not having success with the throttle blip to reduce the 1st gear clunk. Then it occurred to me that perhaps the clutch lever is not being pulled in before blipping the throttle? This is a critical part of the process because only if the clutch lever is pulled in will the sticking clutch plates free up.

This always works for me. When the bike is cold (first start of the day) it goes into first without any clunk. However, when it warms up it tends to clunk every time, especially after a short stop. Pulling the clutch and 'blipping' the throttle always works. My guess is it breaks the 'drag' between the clutch plates and allows a clunk free shift. Changing gear on the move is butter smooth.............

 

[pcarnut]

I'm surprised to hear that some of you are not having success with the throttle blip to reduce the 1st gear clunk. Then it occurred to me that perhaps the clutch lever is not being pulled in before blipping the throttle? This is a critical part of the process because only if the clutch lever is pulled in will the sticking clutch plates free up.

This is correct. What also works just as well is have the bike in neutral, pull in the clutch, start the bike, and without blipping the throttle, put in lst. No clunk, easy and simple every time.

 

[bikerskier]

It's similar to the process of "double clutching" a large truck when down shifting to make the down shift smooth.

 

[rwortman]

If you want to break the clutch plates loose without the clunk, hold the brake, pull in the clutch, start it in gear. I had a Triumph that stuck the clutch plates together pretty tight after a few days and would really bang unless you did this. My first bike was a Norton and that clutch stuck like crazy too. That routine was to pull the clutch in and kick the start lever until it broke free. (If you are under 40 you may not know what this means)

 

[bergmen]

Just curious, does that clunk damage the gears over time?

No, not at all. What you are hearing sounds a lot worse than it really is since there are no drive forces involved. Modern transmissions are incredibly tough and basically immune to damage when you are sitting still and just stopping the input shaft with all the friction plates and hub included when shifting into first.

It took the Japanese motorcycle companies many years to figure out how to make a wet clutch on motorcycles work well under all conditions. All of them "clunked" going into first and chattered pretty bad at the point of full engagement. Slippage under max power was not rare (my 1985 Honda Nighthawk S was especially bad at this requiring stronger after market clutch springs to solve).

We should be thankful that we have an outstanding clutch on Gen III FJRs (sticky clutches requiring a "soak" not withstanding). This is the best clutch I've ever experienced in 50+ years of motorcycling.

BTW, I work with Al Chow at Agilent...

Dan