Blue 2005 5300 miles Houston TX 2 owner.

[Earlofcrankcase]

I'm the 3rd. It's done some extensive sitting obviously and by the looks of it some of that was outside. The kill switch has been sun faded in the off position. It wasn't love at 1st sight but the gauges didn't have the tell tale redline fade to pink either. And now after the short week I've owned it I can honestly say nothing about this bike is pink! It did have an odd stumble in the idle, and later in that test drive doing a u turn in a blvd that ended up being a blind takeoff. I had to punch it, and it stalled out so bad I thought I was going to kill it? But then it finally jumped back to life, and boy did it. In seeing that low end grunt, the comfort of this thing, and knowing I was a better home for it. I went for it. Now with less than a 100 miles of driving over several days the idle funk that seemed more computer related than anything is almost gone entirely. By the end of today it will have a full tank of known for certain fresh gas and it's 8 year old inspection sticker should be long gone.

 

[C&C]

Good on you, it appears that you just had some tired fuel. Maybe run some fuel system cleaner and some highway miles. Best of luck with your new ride.

 

[fastpappy]

Congrats on your new ride. Enjoy!

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

Thanks. So far so good. I did get a scare putting fuel in it and now I'm looking for a way to revive the rubber seal on the gas cap? The key barely worked but latter some W-D and working it back and forth brought it back around good enough for now. I may need to pull a better safe than sorry with an inline fuel filter? It had 3/4 of a tank when I bought it and a 1/4 when I filled it. After I got over the "what the hell" with the gas cap. I looked at the bottom of the tank and saw good shiny steel with no rust. The rust funk is just at the very seal of the tank. I'm going to hit the seal with some motor oil on a q-tip for now? The $161.00 "assembly only" if it could still be bought? Is not going to happen.
Next question is the oil? I'm going to buy new oil today but I'm wondering what the opinion on synthetic oil shelf life is here? The seller threw in the rest of the case of Royal Purple last used? I think the pic is the date of that case? The registration on the bike expired in 2015.

 

[RossKean]

Gas cap looks pretty nasty - hope the tank interior is OK...

Look here
https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/ff/ff.html
Also nice post by Fred W about dismantling the gas cap to remove the "ball" valve which MAY cause tank venting issues. Good pictures and description.
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/gas-cap-modification.18042/page-2#post-722219
Edit: If you decide to see if you can find a good used replacement on Ebay (or elsewhere), search by the part number rather than a description such as FJR gas cap. This part is used on a BUNCH of Yamaha products...

39P-24602-00-00​

 

[BigOgre]

The key barely worked but latter some W-D and working it back and forth brought it back around good enough for now.

You may know this already but the cap benefits from pushing down on it with one hand while turning the key with the other. Seems to take the pressure off and allows the key to turn much easier.

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

I'm going to give the one I have some time to come out off it. If not? I found what looks like a close enough match on ebay for ten bucks.

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

Yes. Mine has lost all it's elasticity. When you push down to turn it to get the key out you can't feel any real compression of that gasket. Call it a small interest payment for the 25% price tag.

 

[Edmonds Rob]

My '05 was left to sit outside for five years before I got her. Not ridden, not started. My gas cap was corroded to the point that inserting the key just disintegrated the tumbler. Ended up having to drill it all out.
Aftermarket caps are a great, cheap option. I got this one off Amazon I think?

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

That is the best looking aftermarket one I've seen yet. Looks like a great way to avoid all the 2 key problems too. What did the inside of the tank look like? With mine all the corrosion and rust looks like it stopped at the fill neck. I say that because I haven't had the sense to borrow a mirror to look at the top of the tank. Maybe some bad fuel horror stories would help? I'm thinking now that l've filled the tank I need to get an extra inline fuel filter in there quick to catch what washes lose from the top of the tank? Mine for now looks like it had a full tank when it's battery didn't make it through it's last winter? Or whatever else happens to trigger these abandonments? Hard to understand the "park it and leave it" mentality, but it's obvious it has happened more than once to such a great all around bike? Thanks for the post. For me the FJR stands for "Freak'n Just Right"!
l lucked out and had a 2nd FJR gas cap to look at. When l did, I realized the gasket is actually pretty hard on both and the main cause of the problem I'm seeing on the true one is from a spring mechanism that got prematurely antiqued.

 

[RossKean]

Have a good look at the inside of the tank using a bright light and mirror. The fuel pump assembly has a non-replaceable strainer and there is no separate fuel filter. If you decide to put one in line, consider that it is a pressurized system. Never heard of anyone adding a fuel filter...

You might want to remove the tank and the fuel pump assembly to have a good look if you can't tell from the inspection from above. Of course, if there is corrosion at the top of the tank (or elsewhere), it has to be dealt with or future problems with pump and injectors are inevitable.

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

Oh oh? Thanks RossKean. Looks like a complicated fix? I'm looking for better pics but I already see the fuel pump in the tank situation. Sure hope the light show with a mirror tomorrow doesn't look as bad as I'm thinking it might?

 

[Edmonds Rob]

Get one of these!:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HYRPND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1Seriously. For $20 I can't believe it took me this long to buy one.
My take was shocking clean inside. Was kind of a let-down honestly. Was looking forward to my first in-tank-rust-removal.

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

Damn that is cool. Turns out my brother has one of those too. Going to take a look tomorrow and read up what I can on the situation now. If it's a worse case scenario. I'm hoping I can get by with pressure washing it with gasoline from the fuel pump hole?

 

[WRXer]

Can get a Yamaha fuel cap for dirt cheap on Ebay--R6, R1, FJR, whatever, then swap over everything but the external FJR housing. Put in your FJR tumbler or key it to your key. All is possible. I second the thought that the vent may also be plugged.

 

[Earlofcrankcase]

Time will tell. I'm saying I take the one I have a apart and clean it again while I confirm the vent tomorrow.

 

[Dan Cooper]

Have a good look at the inside of the tank using a bright light and mirror. The fuel pump assembly has a non-replaceable strainer and there is no separate fuel filter. If you decide to put one in line, consider that it is a pressurized system. Never heard of anyone adding a fuel filter...

You might want to remove the tank and the fuel pump assembly to have a good look if you can't tell from the inspection from above. Of course, if there is corrosion at the top of the tank (or elsewhere), it has to be dealt with or future problems with pump and injectors are inevitable.

Yamaha doesn't sell a separate replacement strainer sock specifically for the FJR fuel pump, but they do sell them for some of the 4-wheelers.
Or there are these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112882922715?hash=item1a4858b4db:g:XAgAAOSwbgpash-8Or these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253529003318
There may also be a separate stainless steel wire strainer inside the pump housing that may be irreplaceable but may be cleaned in place.

If there is rust in the tank, there will be rust in the fuel pump also.
When removing the fuel pump from the tank there is a small tab on the fuel pump that snags on the edge of the tank hole coming out. Do Not yank on the pump and break that tab! Someone else (can't remember who) reported they used a small file and reached into the tank to file that tab down ever so slightly for removal clearance. Ironically, that tab doesn't snag going back in.

There are some threads on any of the FJR forums about removing the fuel pump from the tank. Here are a couple from one of the other sandboxes. Probably lots of other old threads here also.
https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/fuel-leak.153544/
https://www.fjrowners.com/threads/well-that-was-short-lived.156800/#post-1341881

When replacing the fuel pump, I would recommend getting a new o-ring that seals where the fuel pump assembly mates to the tank. That old one has been compressed for 15 years, and you don't want to have to remove the pump again just to replace it if it doesn't reseal.
O-RING 19B-24486-01-00


dan

 

[norcal rider]

Get one of these!:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HYRPND/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1Seriously. For $20 I can't believe it took me this long to buy one.
My take was shocking clean inside. Was kind of a let-down honestly. Was looking forward to my first in-tank-rust-removal.

Or this one for apple devices:
https://www.amazon.com/Pancellent-I...3f7-a443-5feba1c7c4bf&pd_rd_i=B07HJ3HNNX&th=1