Brake Bleeding Help Needed!

[Scoobyvroom]

O.k. I am have having a heck of a time. Nice weather has finally arrived here in MN. I got my Racetech rear shock back re-valved and feeling better. Last thing on the list is fixing my dragging brake in the front. So I pulled the calipers off removed the 3X, and 4X 6 point star drive bolts.(not sure what the name of these are) removed the pistons cleaned everything out. I pulled out the old seals and cleaned them and lubed them with brake fluid before re-installing them. I have bleed plenty of brakes and have never had such problems. I cannot get the brakes firm. With my left hand I can squeeze the brake lever to the grip. I am getting new fresh fluid at all brake nipples. I have a mighty vac but all I see are bubbles from around the fitting.(small same sized bubbles) I also cycled the ABS by jumping the blue and black wire in the ABS test connector and then did Test 2 out of the manual which pulses the brakes for about a second, so I did this about 4-5 times. Then re-bleed. I got nothing, I tried pushing the pistons in and out of their bores a couple times. Is there a way to bench bleed the calipers before installing. I got nothing I'm about the pack it up and bring it to the local shop. HELP!! :angry2:

 

[Greb]

I've read somewhere on this forum where someone had to pressure bleed the lines from the caliper to push the fluid from the bleeder to the reservoir. I think they used some kind of oil can.

Also, you might try these speed bleeders

Also check this article Fjr.info

 

[Crash Cash]

1. AFAICT the mityvac is a waste of time. At least for me.

2. You should put a little grease around the base of the bleeder, as air will get sucked in through the threads.

You can bench bleed the calipers. Close the bleeder and fill them through the brake line hole, then put your thumb over the hole and roll the caliper around. Repeat until there's no air space when you take your thumb off the hole.

Hey, I had the rear slider bolts gall and rip the threads out of the caliper. I had to buy a whole new $200 caliper, and I'm dreading the bleed job when it gets here. I *hates* working with brake fluid, my preciousss, yasss I does!

 

[SLK50]

I don't understand how there is fresh fluid at the bleeders if the the system won't build pressure.

I would try priming the master cylinder. Bubbles at the bleeders tells me there is air, not fluid,

in the lines.

 

[Scoobyvroom]

I've read somewhere on this forum where someone had to pressure bleed the lines from the caliper to push the fluid from the bleeder to the reservoir. I think they used some kind of oil can.

Also, you might try these speed bleeders

Also check this article Fjr.info

Thanks for the link the FJR tech, I already saw that one... I've been searching all day.

1. AFAICT the mityvac is a waste of time. At least for me.

2. You should put a little grease around the base of the bleeder, as air will get sucked in through the threads.

You can bench bleed the calipers. Close the bleeder and fill them through the brake line hole, then put your thumb over the hole and roll the caliper around. Repeat until there's no air space when you take your thumb off the hole.

I like that Idea, maybe I will give it a try.

I don't understand how there is fresh fluid at the bleeders if the the system won't build pressure.

I would try priming the master cylinder. Bubbles at the bleeders tells me there is air, not fluid,

in the lines.

Like I said, the little bubbles are from the air getting sucked around the bleed screw threads by the mighty vac. I have tried bleeding with the mighty vac, then doing the old pump and close method.

 

[smellthat?]

I had this very issue today after I had changed my brake fluid. I originally used my mityvac to suck out all the old stuff (done in the proper order) and ended up with NO rear brake pressure and weak front pressure. Apparently, the mityvac mitysucks. So I started from scratch. First the front brake right side top bleeder valve pumped by hand - that one had no bubbles - fed from the handlebar res. Next the lower front right side pumped from the rear brake lever - TONS of air. Took 4 refills on the main res (the one on the frame) to get all the air out. Then the rear brake - 2 refills to clear out all the air. I just used regular tubing into the mityvac reservoir. Finally I have stiff front and rear brakes! :yahoo:

 

[Greb]

I ordered the speed bleeders, I'll report back on how they work out. Got one for the clutch too.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Never had any luck with a MityVac. By taking a systematic approach with the old-fashioned way, bleeding brakes and clutch is pretty painless and you end up with a solid lever. Make sure the tube end is always sealed with fluid in a container. Having an assistant helps.

Keep after it and you'll get it. Good luck!

--G

 

[smellthat?]

After doing this manually I went ahead and ordered the speed valves today - another farkle, but will hopefully make this process less painful in the future (I got the clutch as well).

 

[Peter Murray]

Sounds like you did not bleed the linked rear circuit. That's the lower R caliper nipple,Smellthat touched on it also..

Mitivac worked for me.

 

[Donal]

If you plan to use a vacuum system to bleed your hydraulics you really need to seal the bleed nipple threads. This is one of the advantages of using the Speedbleeders - they come with the sealant already installed. However if you don't wish to fit the Speedbleeders themselves then I would strongly recommend the Sealant supplied by Speedbleeder.

Don

 

[dcarver]

Keep us posted about how well the speed bleeders work. I have them installed, but have not used them.

 

[JamesK]

I've used my MityVac on my FJR to flush all the brake fluid many times, have also used it on friend's FZ1 and other bikes - Never had any issues, makes the job an easy one-man operation, it appears YMMV

 

[HotRodZilla]

Keep us posted about how well the speed bleeders work. I have them installed, but have not used them.

They're frigging awesome. It took me about 1.5 hours the other day to install all of them and flush my brake and clutch lines. The next flush will take about a half hour. I just installed a set on my KLR. That was super-easy.

 

[Scoobyvroom]

Well on Sunday I had a motorcycle mechanic buddy of mine come over to help out with bleeding the brakes. Gramps also decided to come over for moral support. While My buddy and I where bleeding the brakes, Gramps noted I was using those goofy Pazzo levers, and added that they where adjustable, and set on the lowest setting. :dribble:

This was the reason I wanted someone else over, I knew I was missing something simple. You get so tunnel visioned by what you are doing you miss the small things.

Thanks Marc!

 

[Gramps]

The power of observation...my small brain does have some benefit.

Glad it was a simple fix.

 

[JamesK]

Well on Sunday I had a motorcycle mechanic buddy of mine come over to help out with bleeding the brakes. Gramps also decided to come over for moral support. While My buddy and I where bleeding the brakes, Gramps noted I was using those goofy Pazzo levers, and added that they where adjustable, and set on the lowest setting. :dribble:

This was the reason I wanted someone else over, I knew I was missing something simple. You get so tunnel visioned by what you are doing you miss the small things.

Thanks Marc!

The adjusters are easy to catch with your jacket sleeve until you get used to them being there, the first couple of days after I installed cheap Pazzo knock-offs from eBay I caught these little buggers a few times.

 

[RaYzerman19]

An alternative is to seal your bleeder screws by wrapping them with Teflon tape, or maybe use anti-seize compound. Also make sure the rear linked circuit is bled. I've always done a manual bleed, but recently experienced Speed Bleeders on a buddy's bike. I am now a convert and ordered a set. I would give the brakes an annual squirt through the SpeedBleeders just to ensure there is no rust building on the internal ball valve (yes, stainless will rust).

 

[NightShine]

... yes, stainless will rust ...

But a stainless steel ball valve won't rust like a mild steel one will.

They rust like stainless steel ones, of course.

ta-da-dum...