Brake Bleeding Help Needed!

[RaYzerman19]

If you are squirting fluid, and you will, just drop a quarter over the orifice and fish it out when you are done.

 

[phroenips]

While my front lever still has just a bit of 'sponginess' to it, it' is firmer than before the bleed.

I read somewhere on here to tie a zip-tie or something around the brake lever and grip so that the brake lever is compressed. Leave it there overnight. No idea how or why, but it seemed to firm up the lever feel.

 

[smellthat?]

If you are squirting fluid, and you will, just drop a quarter over the orifice and fish it out when you are done.

Yuppers - great tip I figured this out after I fountained my fluid during my last check! Again, speed bleeders are the easiest way plus get their little bag thingy - all in one bleeding setup. I did fronts, back, and clutch in under 20 minutes (which includes take off and return of all plastic - kwik for me.)

 

[RadioHowie]

I did fronts, back, and clutch in under 20 minutes (which includes take off and return of all plastic - kwik for me.)

Why would you have to take off ANY plastic to bleed the hydraulics?

Another wonderful Gen II feature???

 

[BkrK12]

I did fronts, back, and clutch in under 20 minutes (which includes take off and return of all plastic - kwik for me.)

Why would you have to take off ANY plastic to bleed the hydraulics?

Another wonderful Gen II feature???

Rear Master Cylinder.

 

[RadioHowie]

I did fronts, back, and clutch in under 20 minutes (which includes take off and return of all plastic - kwik for me.)

Why would you have to take off ANY plastic to bleed the hydraulics?

Another wonderful Gen II feature???

Rear Master Cylinder.

You put brake fluid in that thing???????

 

[BkrK12]

Only as a last resort.

 

[Harald]

I have primarily used a Mitivac for everything for more than 20 years without fail. The FJR however presents a challenge with its linked brakes and massive ABS network. Once air gets in, it appears to be VERY difficult to get the lever back to new, firm feel. I think mine was dropped on the right side and the brake system opened up for some reason.

So as of today, I have used the mitivac I dont know how many times now on the FJR. I tried the manual old school method with my wife helping out, and I finally bought speedbleeders. The speedbleeders arent any better than using the mitivac and my lever is still not yet firm enough to believe there is no air trapped somewhere.

So IMO, the speedbleeders are not worth the money because they dont really make anything easier for me personally. In fact I twice squirted fluid up in the air our of the resevior when "bleeding" the system using the speedbleeders. You have to go super slow or have the cap on when bleeding with the speedbleeders. No thanks.

And regarding air being pulled through the threads using the mityvac, add thread sealant (notice speedbleeders come with it already applied) to the OEM bleeders. Problem solved.

I'm with you on this one. The mityvac has worked just fine for me for years. I have no plans on getting speedbleeders.

Another option for air sucking past the threads is to smear some wheel bearing grease around the bleeder threads. Works like a charm and cost is negligable.